1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: 2003 MCS P1688 - Please Assist

Just a comment....several have had issues with their ECU's that stem from the use of a MSD Coil. Surely not trashing it, just want to make you aware. RMW recommends the use of an OEM coil to eliminate the issue.

 

Reach around the back of the IC output duct and place a finger on the BPV arm which extends from the BPV diaphragm to the butterfly pivot, press inward and release, the arm should move with slight resistance and return; feel and listen for a metallic tink noise, which is indicative of a broken spring. Also observe the arm while the car is started, it should move rearward instantly, and return when the engine is turned off. If the spring is resilient, time to remove tension from the belt, grasp the crankshaft pulley and attempt to rock it, if it strikes the timing chain cover when pressed upward with palm, replace.

 

+1 on what k-huevo advised. Just recently replaced a done OEM damper on an 05 R53 w/ just 21k miles on it. If it's the damper, go ATI.

 

I replaced my stock crank pulley with the ATI unit a few months ago. I posted a write-up with pics here: http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/1st-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-3/replacing-the-crank-pulley-101/

 

Don't waste your money on the MSD. The OEM does a better job. The MSD is a Dodge Neon fitment and requires some footwork with the bolts. Not at all worth the effort unless you want red.

As to wires...OEM are also one of the best options, many of the aftermarket sets have proven to be junk. About the only ones worth it are the Kingsborne and again, unless you want them color there is not reason to use anything but the OEM wires.

That's my opinion and I've tried many of the them out there, both coils and wires.

 

Not really, about the same. That said I've never run an Iridium plug more than 10,000 miles which I thought was the recommended life on the Densos and most high performance plugs anyway.

Now in my BMW I run the NGK three prong plugs and more mileage.

As others have said, keep a check on the torque. I like to change and torque mine when the motor is cold, and on brand new plugs I like to torque the plug down, then back it back off and torque again a couple times to make sure the seats/washers have properly compressed.

2cents

 

And the above post moves this thread along how?

I'm biased, I like the Craven Speed one. The 2 generation of their CAI addressed a lot of the items I thought were an issue in the earliest models, of which I had one.

 

JCW/K&N Filter for the win!

 

The last time I had that code my damper pulley separated. That being said Cycling the key did not fix my problem. I was able to limp it home and noticed as soon as the SC started making boost it would go into limp mode. I also had smoke coming up from the pulley side as it was cooking my serpentine belt.

 

Welcome to M/A, thanks for joining.

P1688- Electronic throttle control monitor level 2/3 mass air flow calculation

Most likely with a car of that vintage the crank pulley is going south. That would be the first place I would look.

The pulley has a rubber center for a vibration damper. Over time with heat and use the rubber starts to split, the center around the crank will continue to spin, the outer portion wit the belt wrapped around it will stop.

Get this checked very soon as it can lead to overheating once it separates. The Supercharge will stop spinning and that drives the water pump.

There are a few aftermarket alternatives out there. My thoughts are to go with something that has a damper, OEM or not.

 

The pulley is something to look at. unfortunately it can look perfect on the car and be falling apart on the backside where you can't see it. When mine failed the only rubber burning smell was from the belt itself. Are you able to consistently get the code? you could try reaching your hand under the intake tube and feel how hard it is to move your bpv. But without a gauge of knowing what your feeling for it might not be of any use. another option if you are able to remove the belt you can feel if there is any play with the pulley itself. Mine was so bad I could turn the belt surface by hand (that should not be possible)

 

I've been running the '39 belt with my stock crank pulley and 16% supercharger pulley for about 4 years with no problems. I got the stock sized ATI unit and have no issues with the belt for the past month or so, including one track weekend.

 

060535 is the correct size for your application.

 

.040, guess it's too late to steer you clear of the Denso plugs also. I recommend checking plug torque after a few heat cycles, again after a couple thousand miles (can't be done too frequently thereafter), remove and inspect the sparkplug center electrode before ten thousand miles.