Most liked posts in thread: 2004 R53 (re)Build Thread

  1. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

    Feb 24, 2013
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    Head looks great. Hope your reassembly goes smoothly.
     
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  2. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Excellent, I didn't know they had them.
     
  3. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully everything will end up being a fairly easy fix and you’ll be back on the road enjoying your car.
     
  4. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    I’m not a mechanic but could a timing chain being off one tooth cause low compression ??
     
  5. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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  6. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I doubt it’s the throttle body and intake tube. It could be but I would think it would miss fire on more that one cylinder. Step away from it for a day sometimes that helps. Then check all your connections. Pull the number two plug and see what it looks like. I would even make sure that it is getting spark. Hang in there you’ll find it.
     
  7. trevhead

    trevhead Active Member

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    Drove the car for awhile today to see what I could see. Gathered more data, getting a plan together.

    I drove 35 miles today, all highway at speeds between 70 and 90 mph except for maybe 5 miles on surface streets at low speeds. The car drives fine. At normal revs it seems okay. The idle is rough and sort of coughs a bit. I don’t feel like the power I felt on the first drive last weekend is there though. Hard to say for sure. Drives well but maybe not quite as responsive as it was last Sunday night.

    new codes appeared during my drive:
    • 0302 Misfire Cylinder 2
    • 0171 Mixture control (bank 1)-system too lean
    • 0234 Charge-air pressure, compressor
    • 1237 Pressure sensor, intake manifold before compressor-input low
    First two are obvious. No idea what to make of the misfire code persistently coming back on cylinder 2. Hopefully it is being caused by the vacuum and boost issues shown by the other codes.

    The lean code is certainly true. In my 35 mile drive the car used nearly a quarter tank of fuel. That is insane to me. I felt like I could watch the fuel gauge dip.

    the third code is for overboost I think. Which from what I can find is going to be the way it is if I keep the 15% pulley.

    the last code is interesting to me the most. Seems to point to a pre-supercharger vacuum leak in intake. So this could be my missing throttle body bolt. But I wonder if it could also have to do with the previously-recommended bypass valve.

    I’m considering several things next. First and foremost, I’ll pull the intake duct out next weekend so I can put in my new one and finally eliminate this broken throttle body bolt from the equation. I’ll clean my throttle body then as well. I’ll also put in a new intake duct to supercharger gasket (the green one). I’m now thinking about ordering the Detroit Tuned bypass valve to put in while I have that stuff out.

    I’ll also try to inspect every vacuum line I can when these parts are out of the way. Mechanic already did and said they’re good but I’ll triple check.

    I think I’ll check the supercharger oil levels front and back even though I just filled it last year. Although I’m now remembering I couldn’t get the back plug open and didn’t fill the back chamber. That could be a problem. Maybe I can get both open this time.

    finally, I’m thinking about process of elimination. I don’t want to do this but I might replace my new pulleys with my original stock parts to see if going back to normal boost and normal crank pulley gets all of it back to normal. But I really really don’t want to do all that swapping to go though one at a time... belt off, pulley pullers, pulleys back on, belt back on... then do it all again to find the culprit. Plus, I actually want the new pulleys. Although my mechanic managed to make me nervous about using the non-dampened crank pulley. I don’t know how to feel about that decision.

    thinking out loud here I guess, organizing my thoughts.
     
  8. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    The supercharger pulley will not through a code. I have never heard of one doing it. I had a 17% pulley on my R53 no codes. I also know of people with 19% pulleys with no codes. I would take care of the broken bolt on the throttle body before I tried anything els.
     
  9. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

    Jun 4, 2009
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    I'm lost on what this could be. I'm in agreement that an undampened crank pulley is not the best idea. I'd recommend a nice ATi fluid damper.
     
  10. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    The P0171 code looks to answer a number of the conditions but the low compression is still puzzling.
     
  11. trevhead

    trevhead Active Member

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    Ok, that's good to know... this is a classic case where "I know I saw that somewhere, last week, can't remember where..."

    You all are incredibly helpful, thanks for continuing to weigh in on all this stuff.
     
  12. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Now this is the kind of project that I can relate with...where no matter how well guided my intentions were I seemed to create as many problems as I corrected. The good news is that you will get through these trying times and be able tell your story of how you were able to slay the mechanical demons that possessed your R53.
     
  13. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    The PWR sounds nice.
     
  14. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    An easy out would not get the bolt out? Please post some pictures of it
     
  15. trevhead

    trevhead Active Member

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    You can see how it looked before in the image a posted a few days ago about the jammed BPV, and now it looks like this after my caveman attack with a drill:

    [​IMG]

    I can probably pick out the rest of that hunk of slag in there and clear the hole completely. It doesn’t seem to be enough metal material in the brass fitting to do something like a helicoil but maybe that’s worth a try to get a real fastener through there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I agree completely with @agranger!
    I would get the rest out as you said and use a bolt and nut. If you get the rest out you may be able to use a 10mm nut and bolt. As long as the mating surface is good you should be good to go. Make sure the gaskets are good so you don’t have an air leak.
     
  17. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I use red RTV sparingly but if you want to be on the safe side maybe a little will ensure you don’t have a leak.
     
  18. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Yours is a noble quest. Good luck with the compression tests.
     
  19. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Well here’s hoping this solves the problem.
     
  20. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Were you able to correct your problems or has this turned up the frustration level another notch ??