I have read through some of the post for oil leaks. Winston I is leaking from the passenger side. Few drops here and there at first. I checked the oil levels and felt it was low. Added oil and now I get "puddles" of oil. No CEL light. Jacked the car up and cleaned everything of what I could see where oil dripped. Determined that it's not the oil pan. I then removed my front passenger side tire and the wheel well covering to get a better view of where the oil might be coming from. Have read a TSB for oil leak at tensioner valve and it looks to be in that area. Can't see where its coming from so not pictures possible. I have 50K and no issue since a blown turbo three years ago. Any help is appreciated. :confused5:
The chain tensioner has been known to not have been properly torqued at the factory... The head of the tensioner is the large hex head in the center of the picture (rear top of the engine on the passenger side)... The timing chain tensioner to cylinder head tightening torque is 48 ft-lb...
Thank you for your prompt response. I will see if I can get to that net and torque it to specifications and stop the leak. Ideally I will not have to take Winston in to dealer since I have no warranty now. It's well worth a try.
I removed all upper area hoses and cold air intake parts. The chain tensioner nut was loose and a small amount of oil around the nut. Torqued the nut down to 48ftlb and put everything back. I have to test it out, but found serveral different part numbers for the part: 11-31-7-597-895 11-31-7-534-833 and a few more.
MINI / BMW made several changes to this part in an attempt to correct problems with the "Death Rattle" issue.... It would be best to get the most recent part that has the latest improvement.... The piece is around $45.00 - $50.00.... I'd say you were very lucky catching it when you did.... Some have been known to completely back out and dump a major quantity of oil....
Fixed photos and you should be able to see them. I ran a good test and no more leakage, however I am concerned at the dark black of the oil that was spilled. I have always changed every 7,500 miles or so and last did it 4k in October. Also had a CEL light come on after a hard test, but saw the top hose with a snap ring had popped off. I will re-seat and test again. Should I still replace the chain tensioner bolt? :fingerscrossed: I got a P115D CEL error.....back to checking the hoses and connections.
I checked all hot intake hoses, removed and cleaned top side sensor. OBD II will not clear P115D CEL code. If I turn off engine and try to clear I get FAIL on OBD II. If when running engine on erase I get DONE and then code immediately returns. Any Idea's?:confused5: I may use this as excuse to buy new ALTA Performance Hot Side Turbo Inlet Tube, but want to fix CEL first.
:cornut: NM Engineering also makes an excellent 'Turbo Inlet Pipe/Tube' and the 'Turbo Outlet Pipe'(turbo to inter cooler). Jason
Sounds like you have a leak somewhere.... You didn't have this code before you took everything off the get at the tensioner? Start checking everything you disconnected.... The PCV hoses that snap onto the valve cover have a "O" ring inside the fitting.... Inspect it to make sure it's seating properly.... On the dark black oil concern.... The tensioner is pressurized by the engine oil pump.... It probably is just used oil that seeped out around the fitting threads... That oil would not necessarily be recirculated with fresh oil from an oil change...
I will take apart and look for "O" ring. Unaware of one when took apart. Adding to this issue is a problem with Vac line (See Photo) rubbing my Cold Air Intake RAM Scoop. Wanted to modify line to go under instead of over the intake line but need it to be PVC so it will not collapse. Is the "O" Ring attached to the outside of the metal flange? It's the first hose that is 45 degree angle at top of hot air intake line and has a U shape clip.
Thanks Metalman, the leak was at the "O" ring. Cleaned and re-seated and CEL finally cleared. Looking to see if the ALTA-MINI COOPER R56 TURBO INLET TUBE is worth changing or the NM Engineering Hi-Flow Charge Pipe. The latter removes the OEM Sound Chamber, but I will look in other post to see if it affects sound more than I am willing to accept. Thanks again.