Question Engine Electronics MINI Cooper ECU 2010 Mini Cooper wouldn't start, crank and has sparks

Hello Everyone,

I'm here to seek some help looking for ideas to work with an aging mechanic to solve a starting issue with my 2010 mini cooper.

It's a based model. Purchased from owner has all service paper in Oct 2019.

We replaced new tires from costco. The tires light came on and stay on. The service person said he reset the system but the light remain on. He said it should learn the new tires and shut off after a while. It did and we didn't think much of it...

We didn't drive this a lot but start seeing issues Dec 2019. The car seems to have issue getting going from a stop. I'm not sure if this is referring to limping by other threads.

We didn't think much of it. We changed oil and look around but nothing is found; car seem to drive fine when we both are in.

In Jan, we saw the check engine light came on. We look at the codes and it points to engine misfires.

Codes but pendings only:
P0301
P0304
P0302
P0300

We replaced the coils with an aftermarket ones (4) with good rating and all new BOSH spark plugs.

We cleared the code and the car works again.

In May, on my way home from the store, the car stalled and we couldn't restart. I had it towed home.

We checked the battery and noticed the voltage is low (11.4). We try to jump start but it still didn't start.

We decided to slow charge the battery over night. We checked the next day and the battery show 12v. The car didn't start so we decided to go check with costco to see if we could exchange it. The battery is less than a year so I was able to get a full exchange for it. But costco didn't have the same one in stock and recommend that I go with the AMG model (more expensive). We decided to go for it.

The car still wouldn't start with the new battery installed.

We decided to check the code and these are what came up but all in pending state.


P0011
P0012
P0015
P0016


We decided to go back and do some basic maintenance on the car to see if it helps; we change the oil again. New oll filter. New cabin filter, new filter in the engine.

Nothing help.


It's now June. We decided to pull the code again this time, it seems to give a different set of codes. There is now an audible click on one of the relay in the engine compartment when I put the key in and click the start button without starting the car. I think it's R1 relay. I don't know what happened. Could the jump start done previously shorted the ECU? I don't know we got to this state.


Here are the codes:
P113B
P0100
P0010
P0013
All pending.

U114B
U115B
U115E
All Confirmed.



Now it's end of July, I took a chance and purchased a used ECU from EBAY. This is after getting a quote from the dealer 3k for the new unprogrammed one and the cost to program.

I found someone near me that can clone it. I drop it off for him to code. He's really nice and update me each step of the way. He complete the job the next day.

I installed the new ECU.

The relay click went away.

I cleared the codes above.

I check the battery and its at 12.9.

I startup the car and for a second it sounds like it was going to run but as I try to start, it keep cranking but never start (just like previous condition).

Check the code again and nothing at this point.

We decided to go and check the spark plugs / coils.

This time, we see sparks on all coils when we try to start the engine.

We test the compression with the spark plugs out and saw about 60PSI?

We put everything back and try to start a few more times. It didn't start.

The mechanic try to start up the car with the starter fluid into the intake valve by the engine filter... I tried to start by stepping on the gas and break at the same time. First half way with the gas and then full (all the way in)., but nothing help, car didn't start.

The mechanic said at this point, it has everything to start. He doesn't know why it doesn't.

We decided to give it one more try and read the code.

This time, we got a code P15E8. Does this mean that the ECU is working and talking to the CAS? Does anyone know how to test this?

The mechanic is not computer savvy but I'm seeking any help to trouble shoot this.

Thank you for reading this.

 

Also wanted to add the fuel pump is working. We can hear it running when the car is in the ON position. When we remove the valve cover (looks like the cover for bike tires). We use a small hex wrench to check for gas pressure and it's there. (Spray out). We turn off the car and release all the gas in the line. Turn the car on again and hear the pump running. We turn it off and check the line again and there is gas spraying out again. We think the pump is good.

 

Thanks David. I had the ECU clone from original. My understand from the person cloning is that all the info is transferred to the new ECU. When I have the original one re-installed, there is an audible click coming from relay R1... There isn't when a new ecu is install but neither ECU start up the car right.

Thanks for the info on direct injection motor. We weren't too sure why that didn't work so now we know.