Does it really matter if sway bar A has a one piece forged bar while sway bar B is welded together at the ends? That is the reason why I wanted the Madness sway bar, but can't find any in-stock anywhere. They are at least a month away from getting more of the Madness MINI Cooper S 22mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar back in stock! :frown5:
Will I need an alignment after installing a sway bar?
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
My Alta bar has been problem free for over 8 yrs now.
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Let me get this right, we have 19mm, 22m solid sway bars and a hollow 25.5mm rear sway bar. What advantages does a rear sway bar have that's hollow and 8 pounds lighter?
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
That's great. With as early in the MINI lifetime as I got mine I would not have been sorry to have had a problem that needed to be addressed by either a replacement bar or modifying the bushings. This being the bane of early adopters. But since it has had no issues I am happy with it......and no squeaks! :biggrin5:
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Jason Montague New MemberLifetime Supporter:cornut: ScottinBend, a little explanation is in order here. During the period 2007-2008(I'm unsure of 2009), the JCW was not a factory built car but was ordered in increments and built at the dealership from standard R56's(my Margi for example 08 R56 MCS/JCW[ecu map/air intake/cat back exhaust] but she has the sport suspension and not the lowered JCW suspension). The increments 1(engine ECU map, air intake, and cat back exhaust), 2 suspension( heavier springs/shocks/anti sway bars/frame lowering), 3 JCW Big Brakes, 4 JCW Body Parts/aero kit. Hence people in those years would speak of their JCW MINIs as JCW x 1 or x 3 etc. Thank you for providing the REALOEM link and I searched it and a few other sources(not an extensive search however) and was unable to find these specific(suspension) parts. They simply weren't listed, why, I don't know but they aren't. Now one see's that there were 3 different sizes of suspensions and consequently anti sway bars during those years, standard, sport suspension, and JCW lowered suspension. Again, why REALOEM doesn't list them is a mystery. Establishing the history of our MINIs is very important, thanks for the opportunity.

Jason -
In the not so distant future I plan on going with lowering springs but while maintaining full suspension travel and some lighter wheels. Will the H-Sport Comp bar work nicely with my plans? I'm guessing member's that are using the middle hole on your h-sport comp bar have to push their Mini aggressively to experience spin arounds and loss of control, would I be correct? Which would you say has a stiffer sway bar, the h-sport comp or the Madness 22mm bar?
2007 MCS, Sport Suspension -
I had my 22mm Alta bar installed at AMVIV back in 2007. I have had to regrease the bushings once since, and it continues to function fine. The handling difference is definitely noticeable (especially in an R53). I would definitely ditch the runflat tires too.
My swaybar is set at the stiffest setting, but most of the time, I think the middle setting would suffice for how I drive.
I do worry that at the stiffest setting, the rear-end will want to turn around to lead me sometimes, particularly in the winter when it snows here, but it has never happened to me. Maybe because I do not drive particularly agressively when it snows.
![[IMG]](http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3317/4565261371_d82c494520_z_d.jpg)
![[IMG]](http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3042/2435256451_f60ea6053a_z_d.jpg)
Though after 6 years, some of the red paint, at the adjustable ends, has flaked off and some surface rust has developed, it is nowhere looking like it might have compromised the strength of the mount and I highly doubt it will fail. -
Torque Specs for H-Sport Comp Rear Sway Bar Bushing Brackets?
I'm going to be installing my H-Sport 25.5mm Comp Rear Sway Bar tomorrow and the instructions that came with have no torque specs at all, not even on the Hotchkis Sport Suspension website. I have all the other torque specs for everything else, sub-frame bolts, top shock mounts, lower shock mounts, end links and lug bolts. I need the specs for the torque specs on the Hotchkis bracket bushings please!
Thanks,
Systemlord. -
Factory spec for stabilizer bar to rear subframe on R53 is 19Nm (14 ft-lb.) I have used the spec on R56 too.
Note: you may want to use a small washer underneath one side of the bracket if the swaybar does not move freely. -
Your welcome!!
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Yesterday, I had the NM Engineering (Neuspeed) 22-mm rear sway bar installed on my 2013 JCW. The transformation in handling is incredible - the car is flat, and the understeer is gone. On one of my favorite ramps before installing the bar, I was sawing away at the wheel and hanging on at 45 mph; the first time I tried the ramp with the bar, I hit 53 without even trying. The ride is slightly stiffer on rough roads, but the car feels much more planted at "highway" speeds.
Originally, I had no problem finding the limits of the car and, in fact, was a little disappointed with the overall handling. In some situations now, I'm at the point of butt-pucker while the car just stays flat and tracks around the curves. For the moment the car is faster than I am, which certainly wasn't the case with the stock setup.
Why the NM bar? Quality workmanship, adjustable, no welded ends and really cool billet mounts (instead of cheesy brackets) with outboard-facing zerks for easy lubing.
YMMV, but this is the best under-$300 investment I've ever made for a car. -
I love my H-sport sway bar, but now I'm looking to get rid of when I brake hard or switch lanes quickly my MCS telegraphs my movements. I would like to lower my Mini just enough to where I still have full suspension travel, that wheel gap just looks a little too much. I'm not looking for coilovers right now, probably just some springs to lower it a little.
I would also like to replace all my bushings with the more firm PowerFlex bushing to eliminate torque steer. Not interested in changing engine mounts, kind of like what I installed with the H-Sport RSB, those polyurethane bushing up front. As long as my ride doesn't feel any vibration, I'm not looking to go nuts on firmness, just trying to eliminate the loose feel when making quick lane changes and torque steer.
Any suggestions?Attached Files:
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Crashton Club Coordinator
I think Metalman put some swift springs on his MINI & is very happy with them. Lowering your MINI is going to require you to get some adjustable lower arms for the rear if you want to get your camber dialed in correctly. Add some IE fixed camber plates it will really help you with turn in.
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Since I already have a H-Sport RSB, would H-Sport rear control arms be a good choice for the rear control arms? What is the function of camber plates and what do they do for the front wheels?
Thank you Crashton,
Systemlord. -
What will the -1.9 degrees of negative camber do to the front tires, excess wear like the rears? My rear camber is -1.9 degrees on each side and .21 degrees toe on both sides.
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I thought negative camber is supposed to give you better handling? Where should my camber be on my 2007 MCS? My rear wheels are badly cupped, excessive wear on the inside with a little less on the outer half of the tire.
What's IE stand for? -
Crashton Club Coordinator
Too much of a good thing. That is why you have ruined the rear tires. Tire rotations help tires last & even out wear.
Your alignment numbers will vary depending on what you want to do with your car. How do you use it, track, auto x or street car?
IE = Ireland Engineering -
The mountain roads are my track, some of the best S-turns that zig-zag, up hill, down hill like a roller-coaster. The rear tires seem like they will last long enough till I ditch my run flats, I'm wanting the Michelin-Pilot Super Sport 205/45/17's, I'll probably want -1.5 camber in the rear, also these tires will wear better than these RF's!
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