I have NM lowering springs, 25 mm H Sport and Koni Yellows. Bar set on middle hole. Great street set up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
I had my 22mm Alta bar installed at AMVIV back in 2007. I have had to regrease the bushings once since, and it continues to function fine. The handling difference is definitely noticeable (especially in an R53). I would definitely ditch the runflat tires too. My swaybar is set at the stiffest setting, but most of the time, I think the middle setting would suffice for how I drive. I do worry that at the stiffest setting, the rear-end will want to turn around to lead me sometimes, particularly in the winter when it snows here, but it has never happened to me. Maybe because I do not drive particularly agressively when it snows. Though after 6 years, some of the red paint, at the adjustable ends, has flaked off and some surface rust has developed, it is nowhere looking like it might have compromised the strength of the mount and I highly doubt it will fail.
Torque Specs for H-Sport Comp Rear Sway Bar Bushing Brackets? I'm going to be installing my H-Sport 25.5mm Comp Rear Sway Bar tomorrow and the instructions that came with have no torque specs at all, not even on the Hotchkis Sport Suspension website. I have all the other torque specs for everything else, sub-frame bolts, top shock mounts, lower shock mounts, end links and lug bolts. I need the specs for the torque specs on the Hotchkis bracket bushings please! Thanks, Systemlord.
To coin a really corny saying, I've found that all I need to do is ask what Way would do. Its worked for us for almost five years now on both an R50 and R56. He's a good source, even if he does occasionally misunderstand what "Italian Job" means (no Fiats there Way). He supplied my 19mm bar, four years ago. It works great.
Factory spec for stabilizer bar to rear subframe on R53 is 19Nm (14 ft-lb.) I have used the spec on R56 too. Note: you may want to use a small washer underneath one side of the bracket if the swaybar does not move freely.
I have been driving for quite awhile today and holy cow does my MCS handle better than before, it turns in the direction I'm pointing the front wheels. No longer do I feel the rear end of the car fighting with me going into a high speed turn, no more body roll. The rear end feels very responsive when you change lanes abruptly right and then left really fast, what a bang for your buck mod! The stock rear sway bar is for marshmallows now. Thanks to everyone for your input, I couldn't be happier! Systemlord.
Yesterday, I had the NM Engineering (Neuspeed) 22-mm rear sway bar installed on my 2013 JCW. The transformation in handling is incredible - the car is flat, and the understeer is gone. On one of my favorite ramps before installing the bar, I was sawing away at the wheel and hanging on at 45 mph; the first time I tried the ramp with the bar, I hit 53 without even trying. The ride is slightly stiffer on rough roads, but the car feels much more planted at "highway" speeds. Originally, I had no problem finding the limits of the car and, in fact, was a little disappointed with the overall handling. In some situations now, I'm at the point of butt-pucker while the car just stays flat and tracks around the curves. For the moment the car is faster than I am, which certainly wasn't the case with the stock setup. Why the NM bar? Quality workmanship, adjustable, no welded ends and really cool billet mounts (instead of cheesy brackets) with outboard-facing zerks for easy lubing. YMMV, but this is the best under-$300 investment I've ever made for a car.
Glad you enjoy the new found handling increase. One word of warning, when at the limit don't lift. :wink:
I love my H-sport sway bar, but now I'm looking to get rid of when I brake hard or switch lanes quickly my MCS telegraphs my movements. I would like to lower my Mini just enough to where I still have full suspension travel, that wheel gap just looks a little too much. I'm not looking for coilovers right now, probably just some springs to lower it a little. I would also like to replace all my bushings with the more firm PowerFlex bushing to eliminate torque steer. Not interested in changing engine mounts, kind of like what I installed with the H-Sport RSB, those polyurethane bushing up front. As long as my ride doesn't feel any vibration, I'm not looking to go nuts on firmness, just trying to eliminate the loose feel when making quick lane changes and torque steer. Any suggestions?
I think Metalman put some swift springs on his MINI & is very happy with them. Lowering your MINI is going to require you to get some adjustable lower arms for the rear if you want to get your camber dialed in correctly. Add some IE fixed camber plates it will really help you with turn in.
Since I already have a H-Sport RSB, would H-Sport rear control arms be a good choice for the rear control arms? What is the function of camber plates and what do they do for the front wheels? Thank you Crashton, Systemlord.
The Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates will add about 1.9 degrees of negative camber to the front of your MINI. This will help your car turn in & corner better. If you are adding lowing springs that is the time to do the camber plates. No extra labor, you are already there with the spring change. The adjustable rear arms are there to remove excessive rear camber that you will gain when you lower your MINI. Yes recommend the H-Sport rear control arms, have them on my MINI. Once all of this is done get a good alignment.
What will the -1.9 degrees of negative camber do to the front tires, excess wear like the rears? My rear camber is -1.9 degrees on each side and .21 degrees toe on both sides.
A lot depends on driving style. I find my front tires are wearing more evenly than they were before I put the plates in. Yes they do wear a bit more on the inside, but that is a trade off I'm willing to make. How much negative camber the IE plates give you is dependent on your car. Not all MINI's will end up at -1.9. That is a lot of negative rear camber. Having some taken out will also help your car turn, even without the front plates.
I thought negative camber is supposed to give you better handling? Where should my camber be on my 2007 MCS? My rear wheels are badly cupped, excessive wear on the inside with a little less on the outer half of the tire. What's IE stand for?
Too much of a good thing. That is why you have ruined the rear tires. Tire rotations help tires last & even out wear. Your alignment numbers will vary depending on what you want to do with your car. How do you use it, track, auto x or street car? IE = Ireland Engineering