Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: 60k maintenence ideas and a rthymic squeak during idle

I get my MTF-94 from the dealership, I bring everything and pour it off the big jug. If you don't want to visit the MINI dealership, go to a Land Rover service department, they use it too.

Red Line MTL is exactly the same viscosity as OEM, RP Max Gear is heavier. I've used heavier viscosity, both straight and mixed, I prefer 70W80 (OEM weight) for year round use. RL MTL is suitable for all types of LSDs (or ATB) including the OS Giken, and is what I recommend for the OS in both the R53 and R56 gearbox. I use a variety of transmission fluids, so I'm not pushing RL MTL exclusively, just saying there is nothing to fear from it. I've had fluid analysis using OEM, MTL, and Silkolene SYN 5, all were excellent as analyzed for their interval, and I've used BG Syncro Shift II to improve the feel of a notchy gear box. Just be sure the fluid used has the GL-4 classification. You can do a web search on any transmission fluid and find good & bad reviews/opinions of each and all.

 

Motor mount is probably going or gone. Check for nasty black fluid.

Trans fluid could probably stand to be changed at that mileage. I like Redline MTL if you have a limited slip.

 

the squeek is the belt, Change the belt plugs and tranny fluid
I personally dont like redline i think its too thin. I get mtl from toyota its a high quality oil.
The motor mount is likely bad if its a 05 or 06 if its early car probably fine.

 

Doing your trans fluid at 60k is unnecessary: you'd be wasting your money. If and when you do a clutch, change it then, otherwise don't bother. The 60k service includes things like air filter change (or clean if you have a life-of-the-car filter), cabin air filter change, brake fluid flush, coolant flush, check power steering fluid and top up with CHF 11S, check shocks for leaks and brake lines for cracks, lube your aftermarket swaybar bushings (if you have one), change drive belt and check pulleys for bearing wear (that's where your squeak may be coming from), lube hood latches and door hinges with white lithium grease. As always keep fresh, high-quality motor oil in the car with a good filter. I find that most major brands of filter are ok with the exception of the Purolator filter which supplies a bad and mis-sized cap o-ring. At Helix we use MINI oil and filters.

 

Check both the idler pulley and tensioner for the sqeaking. My tensioner damper went out at 30K and the pulley was getting a bit loose at that time. The idler pulley is less likely to be a problem, but they can go bad also. I went with the NAPA 535 belt for my car with 15%. Starts out a bit tight but it sure hasn't given me any problems. Might as well change it out as long as you are there.....

I too don't think you need to worry about the trans fluid. The OEM stuff is really good. If you want to change it go with the OEM stuff. I too think the Redline stuff is to thin. Didn't like the shifting feel with it. OEM is much smoother.

 

Maybe you killed the mouse!

Agree that MTL feels a little thin, especially when it's fresh. Disagree that it's not needed at 60k, but it's just an opinion.

 

also strongly disagree its not needed. Would not use redline after using it in my gearbox. Toyota sells an oil thats really good i just cant think of the name right now...

 

Take a quick peek at the crank pulley. If not torqued properly, it will give off some squeaks at idle. Not hard to do with the fender liner off.

 

Just FYI, if you're gonna re-torque the crank pulley bolt, pull it all the way out, clean the bolt, and reapply the blue loctite. That bolt was a PITA for me to torque. I had to take the fender liner off, then put the wheel back on and put the car on the ground, and then have someone stand on the brakes while I torqued the bolt. I think it was harder 'cause I have an LSD, too.

 

Just curios about how & why you do not like the Redline tranny oil? What is different about the Toyota sourced stuff?

If it was my car I'd be changing the fluid, but that is just me. Ralph sees a whole lot of MINIs & knows his stuff. I respect his opinion.

 

Depending on the build date of your Getrag box, there is one of three specific oils engineered by the factory (or more accurately, for the factory: one by Texaco, and two probably by Castrol). Don't say you heard it here, but aftermarket is not always better. The truth of the matter is that, under normal use, a Redline or other 'botique' gear oil will probably not cause a trans failure. If replacing your trans fluid makes you feel good, go for it. Personally I'll save my money for something that will help the car.

 

Thanks Eric, sorry I called you Ralph. :crazy:

I totally agree with what you are saying about oem vs boutique fluids. My Getrag has an LSD & I'm afraid of putting in something other than the oem spec fluid for fear of harming the LSD.

As far as changing the fluid or not goes, Yes it makes me feel good. I also believe that there is a fair bit of swarf in the fluid from gears, cogs & other tranny widgets wearing.

Is the oem fluid available for the home handyman to use or does one have to buy a 55 gallon drum of the stuff? My dealer wants $180 to change the tranny. Yikes!

 

You can get it in a 5 liter jug from MINI. That's 2.5 times what you need and it'll cost you a bundle: about $160. You might be able to convince the parts guy to decant you two liters and sell you just that. You'll have to provide the last 7 digits of your VIN to determine the correct oil for your car. If it's a really early car, the dealerships only get it in 5 gallon jugs, but our local dealership will sell it in smaller increments, so yours might too.

 

Thanks Eric! Guess I'll have to swing over to the dealer with a couple of quart bottles & a needy look on my face. :smilewinkgrin: