Engine Drivetrain 2nd Gen S Most liked posts in thread: A basic guide to Spark Plugs.

Here's a suggestion

good stuff, but instead of posting this in multiple threads, write something up for the library.

Matt

 

Excellent suggestion - Put in the Library Please!

 

This is a good posting. Where were you over the years when I was trying to explain this. LOL

A couple of things.

When thinking about a spark plug for performance try to find a listing for a single electrode so you can dial the gap in for your specific engine. When you go the level of choosing a spark plug for performance use learn how to best gap them or the effort in the choice is partly wasted.

Never assume a heat range change from stock....... ever! Start with what came factory than do a proper spark plug reading to determine if a heat range change is warranted. The old charts indicating lean/rich good,etc. really do not apply when changing heat ranges for a performance application spark plug.
The basic rule gets so many into trouble. It should be written a basic rule of spark plug heat range estimate for advance performance enthusiast.

With advances in the last 10-15 years such as factory ignition controlled ECU's(controlling AFR's via timing perimeters) upper end aftermarket DIS or ignition systems, high end NOS and water, water/meth systems, etc. incorporating ignition retard and delay actuators to allow safely running a better average spark plug in order to allow the best possible combustion temperature to maintain a more consistent power level.

 

Good reference material, perfect for the library!

I am curious about the 75-100hp step. This might be more accurately expressed in terms of % change from stock hp. Meaning is it the same 75-100hp range for a 115hp stock engine as it is for a 500hp stock engine?

 

When you increase power to an engine monitoring at least your EGT's and watching AFR's to make sure you stay withing predictable combustion temperature range so as not to allow increased heat in the wrong area's. If you are raising the temperatures or introducing induction augmentation changing AFR's by any engine modification then attention needs to be given to adjust to lower them back down. The biggest problem with increased compression is not the heat with regards to spark plugs but the ability of the plug to continue to have a proper kernal and not get bent.

All to often the home shade-tree mechanic assumes what works by the majorities usage and not carefully thought and testing. Finding the best spark plug for any specific end use is not easy nor is it cheap. There is no simple way to guess in the end if you are not diligent in your selective process of changing spark plugs you could end up with this.
Even the simplest thing as a spark plugs has highly technical consideration.

 

Sooooo.........
What's this a picture of? Some kind of new Cali spark-plug bong?:lol::lol::lol:

 

auh I can tell you 420 reasons why it is not...

lol

The spark plug acted like a fuse so when it melted down the engines monitoring safety switches shut the engine down so no cataclysmic engine damage could occur.

 

LOL...... at least 403 reasons!

So...... how did the other three fuses look?

Of course this had nothing to do with the witches brew of gasoline / nitro-methane / propane, that you run. Right :devil:

Now wait a minute, it can't be from your MINI, it never leaves the driveway.

 

If there is any anomaly with my engine beyond what should be normal there are redundant devices that will shut the engine off.

I run the stock heat range spark plug in my 02 R53 Ca 92 octane fuel even with all the other "witches brew" fuels and my average MINI engine mods. i.e. reduction SC pulley CAI,header,exhaust etc. As each was added I ran pug readings under load to determine the continuing or changing of the spark plug type and /or heat range.

Are you sure my MINI never leave the "Driveway" ? :ihih:

 

LOL, it's not called "Track MINI" or "Freeway MINI" or or or......, and I did see a red moped one of your pic's. Oh yeah, and I've never ever seen it in my neighborhood. So I'm guessing a little, I suppose.

 

Are there any advantages to using the multi-electrode plug, or disadvantages for that matter.
Nice article, good to see it is in the library, makes it so much easier to find....

 

The way I figure it if the factory screws the multi electro plug in I'll continue to use them.

 

What would be the effect of using OEM Cooper plugs in Cooper S (R56) engine?
(2007 year model if that's important).

 

Are the heat ranges the same? How about the reach? I'd guess different since you've asked the question. Why would you want to use a plug for another model in your MCS? I'd say don't do it.

 

FYI - the NGK BKR6EQUP and BKR7EQUP are no longer Iridium tipped. They are now "Laser Platinum" If sticking with an Iridium tip is a necessity you'll need to move to the BKR6EIX and BKR7EIX plugs.

 

I've been using NGK BKR6EQUP plugs in my MINI since the first plug change I did in 2007. Those plugs have always been platinum, not iridium.

Hope this helps somebody....

 

My NGK Iridiums failed, burned up my wires and my S had to be flatbedded to my MINI dealer. They installed OEM plugs [2 years ago] and I've not had a problem since. Of course, all that happened before all the hoopla about the Iridiums not being up to snuff. If I ever change out the OEM plugs, I'll have to go back and find this thread to see what alternatives there have come available in the meantime.