Brakes Idea 1st Gen A possible different bigger brake idea and, Meth Injection and more

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by Whine not Walnuts, Jun 11, 2018.

  1. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    The RMW bashed over on NAM has a Sprintex on his car and is not worth replying too. Just having that POS Sprintex on his car shows he is an idiot that will not have his mind changed even with all the facts laid out in front of him.

    I bet he still thinks the world is flat.
     
  2. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    What.................what? the worlds not flat????
     
  3. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    No the world is not flat. If it was cats would have push everything off by now.
     
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  4. Whine not Walnuts

    Whine not Walnuts Active Member

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    Yes I am a somewhat MINI newbie so the entire "web did this or that" meant nothing to me. Randy Webb, ok now I get it.

    Back when I bought my first MINI I checked the forums out and what I found was; 1.) Do not use those red coil units, 2.) A 15% pulley is better and 3.) You do not go with a Shark tune thing. Now on the red coil and the shark tune, I did find folks that had written about major issues. At that time it did not dawn on me that relative to pulleys there was not allot of hard data that was out there, at least that I found. What I did find was the; its going to cause cavitation, its going to spin so fast the fuel limit range limiter is going to be triggered, its going to spin so fast the water pump is going to blow up or it does create more heat. Well of these, the heat thing is correct and is backed up by data.

    So I focused on the heat thing and started thinking; 1.) Why is more heat created, 2.) What is the range where the heat creates issues, and 3.) Is there something that can be done to mitigate the heat? IMO when somebody asks a question about pulleys the statement that "the smaller pulley will make the supercharger spin too fast" should not be offered but rather that the smaller pulley will create more boost at lower engine speed but will start to lose efficiency when it reaches a certain point close to redline with more heat as the byproduct. The spreadsheets I created reflect the engine rpm range where the inefficient points are reached. These points range from approximately 6400 for the 19% to 6600 for the 15%. I also provided information based on gear ratios where these points would be encountered in somewhat normal street driving.

    To mitigate these issues there are three basic choices; 1.) Do not make the change, 2.) Do not drive in a manner that your engine rpms exceed the inefficient points or 3.) Use MI to reduce the intake temperatures. For me and now with the understanding that even the JCW appears to spin beyond the 16,000 range that Eaton specifies (still have not found any data released by Eaton stating such) it was easy to decide to go with MI and to give me just a little more "power" with the 19% pulley.
     
  5. Whine not Walnuts

    Whine not Walnuts Active Member

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    and between the discussions on Columbus and the earth is flat, it got me thinking of the episode where Tony and guys were all upset about the Columbus Day Parade getting cancelled. I finally figured out what happened to him in that last episode, he fell off the edge of the world or Dave's cat pushed him off it.
     
  6. Whine not Walnuts

    Whine not Walnuts Active Member

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    OK, yes I am cheap. Must be how I brought up but sorry although I do have the money to go with the best, I for some reason try to figure out myself why something does a particular thing and what makes one something better than another.

    On the MI system I have decided to make my own system up. You can buy separate controllers, pumps, injectors, solenoids and other parts from different vendors.

    Controllers: The name brand kit makers all have their own controllers but I decided to go with Jeff Harris and his http://www.hpcontrols.ca/. He sells his controllers on e-bay at a very reasonable price. I know another member that has the controller and it appears to be ok. I ordered the part yesterday evening and already got an email back from Jeff that he has the unit ready to be sent out.

    Pumps: Shurflo appears to make all the injection pumps for all the various kit makers. BlwnAway provided a link to a very good post here that is the first link below, and there is another post on pumps at the SRT Forum that is the second post. I am still doing research on pumps and have not made a decision yet. There are allot of Shurflo pumps that may be options here and are lower in cost. The key element appears to be the operating pressure of the pump. In the Motoring Alliance post you will read about pressures and what I call overamping.

    https://www.motoringalliance.com/art...n-systems.107/
    https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f21...thanol-240309/

    Solenoids: I am going to install a solenoid between the pump and the nozzle/injector. I researched using a brass unit that can be purchased on Amazon or Ebay for less than $20. What dawned on me was that the orifice size was smaller than the pipe size and would impede flow so I went with a Kit makers unit. The purpose of the solenoid is to make sure that the MI mix cannot be pulled into the air stream under vacuum conditions when the pump is not activated. From what I read this can be accomplished with a checkvalve but the valve may add to pipe restriction and I did note an instance where the valve failed.

    Nozzles: Lets just say there is so much "advertising" type stuff that for me it is kinda hard to figure out which is best. Since I am using the solenoid as my "check" I am leaning towards the Devils Own nozzles that do not have an internal check (that pipe restriction issue again). It appears that a 500 cc/min is the same as 500 ml/min and that AEM has chart saying a MINI with our boost and HP would use this size unit. Now Devils Own has a MINI kit that comes with a 300 and 700 nozzle so I am thinking the 500 in the words of Goldilocks may be just right. Remember I am using this for cooling and not tuning.

    Pump and Nozzle info: I found a great web post on water injection. I am trying, note trying, to figure out myself on how much MI liquid I should inject. Once I know that then in conjunction with the flow charts in the MA post above I may be able to determine whether high psi pumps are required and then what size nozzle may be best.

    https://shopeurocompulsion.net/blogs...water-injecton

    Currently without misc parts such as hoses, clamps etc and with a budget of $145 for a pump, I am at $340.
     
  7. Canusrufis

    Canusrufis RMW Powered R53
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    Not sure how I got through this "brake" thread, but for what it's worth. Having transitioned to TVS900 makes all of these calculations exhausting. The TVS is singificantly more efficient (cooler, reliable), you can run a smaller pulley (I'm currently on 60mm but think you can run down to 50mm) and boost levels of 19+ are easily achievable. I can tell you the kick at WOT is very noticeable compared to an M45. Then I went to LinkG4+ and Wideband and it was more interesting. I would keep the 15% and save $$ for TVS and be done with it. I'm never going back to M45. Sooner than later that won't be a option anyway. And as a bonus you can burn that stupid plastic intake tube and green gasket. Such a POS design.
     
  8. Whine not Walnuts

    Whine not Walnuts Active Member

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    So I put the 17% pulley on that in conjunction with the Way Motors 2% crank overdrive pulley gives me 19% This means I am in the area where Columbus sailed off the edge of the flat earth, my water pump spun so fast that my car started to vaporize the coolant, and the Eaton Supercharger so far out of its normal operating range that it created a nuclear reaction that welded my pistons to the cylinders.

    NOT!!!!!!!!!

    Prior to the pulley change I collected data with a boost of 12 and a manifold temperature never above 132 F. I took the car out this morning and collected some data both at the beginning of the run and then when I turned around to come back about an hour later. I had stopped and parked for a short time so there should have been some heat soak of the intercooler. What I found was that the manifold pressure remained at about 26 psi up to the around 6,500 rpm at which point there was about 29 psi of manifold pressure. Factoring in the elevation of the area I am in results in 14 psi of boost at high rpms but the same basic values at lower rpms, 12 psi.

    Now, my values are by no means scientific and I do not have any equipment that will monitor the motor at very short intervals, but it sure appears that:

    1.) The redline cutout is 6,750 rpms as at 6,850 the boost was lowering that would be logical as although my foot was on the peddle hard, the ECU had cut fuel..
    2.) The 19% pulley combination DOES NOT make any more boost until the 6,500 engine rpm value is exceeded. This appears to verify the spreadsheets I posted previously in this thread.
    3.) There does appear to be more heat generated by the this combination. I had a 152 degree readout both at the beginning of my run and after turning around. That is about 20 degrees Fahrenheit higher than with the JCW pulley. The mid range rpm temp value was also higher as I had 145 degrees at 5,084 rpms. This could be from the supercharger turning about 400 rpms faster at the same rpm as the JCW pulley. I am thinking the additional revs produce more heat that the intercooler is soaking up in a static condition.
     
  9. Red Bull

    Red Bull Active Member

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    So adding the 2% ATI had no effect, or did you feel a seat of the pants difference since the boost should have been shifted lower in the RPM range?
     
  10. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Drive harder and shift at red line.
     
  11. Whine not Walnuts

    Whine not Walnuts Active Member

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    At the heart of the issue is whether a person can "feel" tenths of a second as that is the territory we are in. My butt dyno says it revs/accelerates faster now.

    The 2% overdrive has been in place for months, the major difference was removing the JCW 11.5 and installing the 17.

    I am thinking that the comment on no additional boost until 6500 cannot be physically possible, it must be increasing progressively. The issue is that me of the flip phone equates to me not having the latest and greatest tools/apps. I have a LE Bluetooth so the apps that I can run on the wife's ipod are limited and cannot react fast enough to record the increasing revolutions. I can email the data to myself but then I don't have a program that will plot it so I can only review in text format. With the JCW pulley I saw a 26.82 at 5,921 but I also saw a 23.49 at 5,500 that could be to the increase not being lineal as there are variable involved. Yesterday with the 19% combo I saw 26.10 at 5,084 that I would think is lower in the range from the 19%. It was in this same run portion yesterday that I hit 29.14 at 6,575.

    On the heat, in about 2 1/2 minutes I saw the temperature decrease from 152 to 107 when off the boost and going around 55-60.

    At the heart of the issue is whether a person can "feel" a tenth of a second.
     
  12. Whine not Walnuts

    Whine not Walnuts Active Member

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    I would like to hear the thoughts of a Mechanical Engineer as perhaps with the increased supercharger revs at lower engine rpms has impacted static and other air flow variables allowing the smaller pulley/larger pulley ratio to provide boost quicker than just a simple mathematical lineal line.
     

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