Out of these 3 I like the DDM one.
But this is my favorite MINI intake![]()
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MCM did a few videos on CAI vs OEM and they came to the same conclusion - OEM = More Horsepower, CAI = Better Noise.
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Zip zilch zero ram air with any of those. This is a B-727 I have lots of time in them. The #2 engine takes a huge power hit because of the S duct. The air comes in then has to make two turns to make it to the engine.
On the Mini after it goes in the hood scope and makes it to the air box I don't think there would be much if any added pressure. At least not enough to make a difference.
I, like you, think the noise is added fun so it is worth it and I do thank it would bring in cooler air. That is good. I like the AEM and the DDM. @Qik intake looks good too.
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Yall suck... lost my flight contract after TBS... due to one bad eye test. Still 20/20 but spread was too wide. My choice was the only plane that could accelerate in the vertical at that time...
So... I raced motorcycles instead.-
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vetsvette MINI Alliance Ambassador
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vetsvette MINI Alliance Ambassador
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I had an open cone filter in my R60 for a while. While it sounded fantastic and seemed to add just a touch more bottom end power, I started noticing that even in the PNW where the temps are pretty mild, the intake air temp was running at least ten degrees higher. After I replaced my diverter with a DV+, there was no more diverter noise to speak of (DV+ is very quiet) there was no reason to keep it, so I went back to the factory airbox. The difference in sound is drastic, the difference in performance is negligible for the most part, until you bring in the heat-soak that it is not happening now, and I'm more than willing to sacrifice the noise for the temp difference alone, but also holding more boost between shifts is a plus as well. I don’t think you can really do much better than the factory airbox for the heat that you get down there in Atlanta (did I remember that correctly?) except maybe the JCW airbox with the round filter.
I have actually been looking at my airbox and I’m pretty sure that it can be converted to a similar set-up. If you remove the plastic braces that are screwed into the lid, then you would need to attach an insert of some kind to accept the filter.....something like a tube with a 60 degree bend and seal it into the lid opening. If it works you could cut out part of the lid if you wanted (like the JCW) that may satisfy some of the sound freaks like me...... what do you think?-
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DneprDave Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
It's been a few years since I researched aftermarket intakes, but I did find that the best intake is the factory cold air intake, unless you are looking more for noise than horsepower.
I no longer have the links saved, but there are a bunch on YouTube comparing stock v.s. aftermarket air intakes, using a chassis dynamometer, and in almost every case the oem intake produced the most horsepower. Automobile engineers really do know what they are doing. The best one for your MINI is probably the JCW intake.
The RAM effect only works in a very narrow RPM band, in an intake specifically designed for each installation.-
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Ok - I will have to look into that. Since I don't have the factory one, if it produces more power than aftermarket using the scoop, I would go with that. Will do some research on that. The question would be is it better for stock or stock and modified?
That said, I do like the noise when it starts sucking in air currently..-
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Regarding the video, I do agree that the performance gains are nominal in many cases. However my case is a little different, I have the "cone" filter sucking in hot heat (previous owner) that lost power in the video... as expected IMO. Also the fan does not produce the wind velocity of a car at 60mph. That said, lets run a test. If someone has a OEM JCW intake I can borrow I will test it against at least one of these mentioned above. The test will consist of:
1) Hot engine runs on the Dyno on the same day. (I will pre-test fit so switch quickly, plus I will test engine temp before each run) and try to normalize. That will give the "sitting" results.
2) I will also do a test at speed. Lets say 20, 60, 80mph.... My thought here is to use something like Dash Cmd in log mode. (open to other suggestions).
I will be looking primarily at two things:
1) HP
2) Torque
Thoughts? Let me know if I missed anything or if anyone has any better ideas...-
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
I can offer one bit of helpful advice: If you are trying to keep the intake air as cool as possible DO NOT use carbon fiber or metal tubes. The themold plastics and rubber commonly found in most vehicles intakes are actually better at insulating the air inside the in intake from the heat of the engine bay. Both metal and carbon fiber conduct heat EASILY into the tubes. It's a small difference on FI cars but every little bit adds up.
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wmwny Well-Known Member
Years ago, when I first bought my R50, I was into modding it slightly...knowing how fragile the CVT was. So, I added a Madness 3-hole rear sway bar, EBC Green Stuff pads with s/s lines, a Helix catback, M7 strut tower defenders [because Ohio roads are so bumpy], and a generic cold air intake I found on eBay. The intake is a closed up cone and has been on the car since 2005, with no problems whatsoever. I think the intake set me back around $40-$50 and has been worth every penny.
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wmwny Well-Known Member
Cigars, I know, as well as Spanish...........-
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