Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: Aftermarket wheel studs stuck!

I had the same issues with mine. PB Blaster. Let it sit. PB Blaster. Let it sit. Then, take the biggest set of Channel Locks or vise grips you have and set them as tight as you can across the threads. Then, with a quick 'jerk', break them loose.

Allen key might be sufficient to install but as soon as they are seized, there's no way to get the torque you need to remove.

 

Good luck!
That reminds me though I broke an allen key the other day. Better pick one up before I need it.

 

another option is to ICE the studs or spray them with an upside-down air duster can to chill them... could even heat the hub up a little bit with a heat gun or torch, and then chill the studs... this plus the PB Blaster should help them break loose. Heating the studs means expanding the studs... which might help break loose corrosion... but also might just make them tighter while they're hot...

 

Definitely a concern! For non-destructive removal I'd try double-nutting the stud (put two nuts on the stud, torque them together, then slip a socket over both and attempt to remove the stud).

For a more extreme solution, I would get out a very good plumber's wrench (pipe wrench, the old-fashioned kind) and give that a try.

And finally, for the highest torque solution I would weld a nut on the stud and use that with an impact wrench.

The last time I had to get some studs out of a hub, I used a lot of "Zep" penetrant and a little heat. A hex wrench worked for me in that case.

 

in my case, I was putting the car back to stock with wheel bolts to sell. I actually had a buyer for the studs and lugs but that fell through with the destructive removable. bimetallic corrosion pwns all

I still have a set the black chrome McGard SplineDrive lugs for the MINI sitting in my toolbox. :lol:

 

Try the double nutting again, and tighten the nuts firmly against each other... and PB blaster (but remember to clean the brakes really well).

 

Good ideas here.
I will just mention that if red high temp threadlocker was used, it will
require heating of 500 to 600 degrees for parts to separate.
Don't ask me how I know.:smilewinkgrin:

 

you mean there's a tool for that?!!

Metric Stud Puller Socket

 

I have three sets of those from different brands, and they all work pretty well (though none of my sets go up to 12mm). Good if you can afford it.

 

Congrats

 

hi
what is PB blaster?
thanks
boxcars

 

I'm not sure if it would work for this application, but sometimes we used to grind a flat spot in the threads and fit a big pipe wrench on it. You can fit a longer pipe over the handle of the wrench, too, for some extra leverage, and you can stand on that pipe if necessary.