Yes it would, but it's diminishing returns--you're not going to get THAT much more cooling, and you can adjust the meth to your usage. It's at the point of diminishing returns. Personally, I'd skip the Forge, and just use meth, or get the GP intercooler and use meth. The Forge just might end up being more trouble than it's worth...
Thanks for pointing that out and hopefully the Forge unit pans out, if not, it'll be up for sale on ebay.
Pretty sure he did too... If all else fails, post the Forge I/C on NKM, but use an alias account... If you dont pay to advertise (according to Drew over there, posting a part FS is Advertising) they will give you the boot!
A box from Detroit! I wonder what's in it? Thanks Chad! Now I just need the rain in Dallas to pause long enough to install it.
Just pack up what tools you need and find a mall parking garage for a few hours. If mall parking lot security stops by just tell the security guy you have to fix it so you can drive it home and ofer him a donut.
Mother Nature cooperated today and I was able to get a lot done, but Uncle Murphy and his law was fairly active. Regardless, new crank pulley,new crank seal, new idler pulley, new tensioner with delrin bushings and a WMW tensioner stop.
Great work but when you hear a rattle under your hood take that God forsaken Red WMW Tension stop off your car. They really do nothing except rattle. If you take care of your car like you do you don't need it.
I don't mind it rattling a little if it keeps the tensioner from grenade'n my ATI pulley. But it's secured at both ends unlike the ALTA tensioner stop so it shouldn't rattle.
That's a myth. I have driven my car days without the bushings in the tensioner and it did not grenade into my ATI damper. You could just as well put washers on the ends of the little shock to stop it from sliding off the bolts when the bushings go because it will not extend long enough to reach the damper. Those $20 pieces of metal are not worth a damn no matter what version you have. WMW, ALTA and whoever else makes them. It all based on fear and BS shady marketing.
The problem isn't the bushings, it's the little tab that breaks off over time from the bushings being bad. The tensioner I just pulled off had the tab broken off so if the belt had broke, there is no doubt in my mind it would have hit the crank pulley.
Yep..........bad thing to happen. Was an R53 in the shop same time as mine for this exact reason.....destroyed crank pulley caused by the tensioner crashing into it after the belt broke. Shop asked me where I got my stop and sent him to WMW for this one but told them not to install it as it was pictured but to turn it around. Narvarr you do want to flip that bar around though. Installed that way will rattle ALOT because the end of the damper that it is secured to does a lot of moving around causing it to rattle at the other end. If you swap it around the rattling end simply moves around in the slot. Lots less noise.