Engine Drivetrain 2nd Gen S Most liked posts in thread: Any long term Manic users?

I read your other post and was wondering who the hell was shipping 5 gallons of Meth. It’s better to pick it up from a local speed shop. I would also say you should get a plastic 5 gallon race fuel jug with a hose line cap like I have. I place the jug on top of and old bucket and tilt it with the hose I a smaller 1 gallon jug. I fill the the plastic race fuel jug with the VP M-1 can.

Oh when you open the VP 5 gallon can, and before you try and pour it, punch a few (3) holes on the opposite side to vent the can so it does not splash all over when pouring. I use a small tip,standard screw driver and a hammer to punch the holes.

Then I fill a very clean used 1 gallon washer fluid bottle and use the small jug to top off my meth tank.

It is much easier and safer then lifting the big 5 gallon jug with the hose and trying to fill a tank in your car.

https://www.motosport.com/vp-racing-motorsports-jug-with-hose

 

Word of advice, do NOT use Snows red 50/50 pre-mix. The dye and crap will clog your jets and have caused premature pumphead failure. For an R56 you want to run 50% VP M-1 and 50 distilled water. JAN or anyone with a Meth kit on a second gen should tell you that. I run 100% VP M-1 on my current HFS -3 and ran 100% Meth on my old HFS-6 system until the, no longer made, flow control valve failed. I am still using the same tank, pump and head that is used with the HFS - 6 system. You will really like the HFS -3 kit and it is easy to install.

Oh here is nice trick when test flowing or bleeding your system. Take an empty 2 liter bottle and rinse out really well.

Drill a small hole in the cap and take a jet and screw into the soft plastic cap. Put the cap on the bottle and you can use it to catch your meth or custom mix so you don’t spray fluid all over. You can see the spray pattern and 2 liters will not fill up to quickly.

 

I am too lazy to do my own oil changes every 3000 miles. I go to my buddy local shop and bring the oil and filter and a few six packs. He also uses the used oil to heat his shop.

Win win for both.

 

Stage 3 manic tune on JCW turbo with meth for almost 2 years now on my N18. I was probably one of the first few way back when.

 

I started with a 50 - 50 mix, primarily for cooling, not an octane booster. Now my manic stage 4 wants an 80 - 20 mix --- add to the octane too. There are some WMI users that mix by weight instead of volume. Not sure how that works, but worst-case, my "volume" mix is a little lower than 80 - 20. Maybe add to your research?

My HFS4 is about 5 years old and still pumping strong. Gotta emphasize keeping the system clean and contaminate-free. My original methanol source wasn't pure enough and plugged the FAV --- really stressed out Jeff H, working with me to get it fixed. Nothing but VP's M1 now.

 

Bookmarking all this info. I plan to install meth system sometime this year. Mainly for cooling purposes.

 

If you want more info on Aquamist system they have a forum off on the Aquamist site. Links below.

http://www.aquamist-direct.com/system-replacement-parts/

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/forum2/vbulletin/

 

Some of the files I have to dig for. I've moved from a Macbook to a Thinkpad as my Mini dedicated tool so hopefully their on the Mac.
Here's some I do have handy though.

This is the Stage 2 meth dyno for Vlad..


The is the Stage 3 meth dyno. It takes a little bit to get a compressor wheel larger than a GTX 2863 up to speed. There is a lot more on tap but Vlad is my daily driver. Even with ARP rod bolts and head studs I have no interest in pushing the stock JCW pistons and rods any harder than this. I also have a Phormula KS-3 secondary knock sensor to alert me to bad gas, etc. Just finally found a spare JCW block to use in a build so hopefully we can improve on this a bit. Still need to find a good low mileage head though.


This is the interface for the Cortex electronic boost controller I'm running. Should be pretty easy to identify some of the differences between it and others on the market.

 

Part of what I'm about to say has to do with my own experience tuning Mini's directly and also in regards to Manic tunes. There are several reasons to run higher ratios of methanol. The most important of which is fueling. The stock fueling system is good to about 270 bhp or 245 at the wheel. After that your AFR's are so rich to prevent detonation that the fuel system can't keep up. Methanol while providing evaporative cooling is first and foremost a very detonation resistant fuel with a known consistent quality when purchased from a reliable source. Unlike gasoline which varies from station to station. In regards to mixtures, more water equals less fuel per CC of the mixture being injected. Also, due to the detonation resistance of methanol one can run much more timing than possible with gasoline. Aggressive timing on a MCS is about 8 degrees on the top end and 10 to 12 degrees on a JCW with 98 RON fuel. On a meth tune you can push the JCW timing as high as 16 to 17 degrees at 1.5 bar of boost. On Vlad I'm running 14 degrees up top at 1.7 bar on 85% meth. Anyway, more timing equals more torque, and horsepower equals torque times RPM, divided by 5252. If at any point in the RPM range you increase torque, then HP will be increased at that same RPM. That's also why torque and horsepower always cross on a dyno plot at 5252 RPM.

Another note on running pure meth. I've tried it and don't advise it. It may seem fine at first, however in the right conditions (hot day, high boost) pure methanol can be prone to pre-ignition. Adding as little as 5% water will prevent that from occurring.

In regards to nozzle size selection. If your not tuned for meth but want to add an extra safety factor the Aquamist 0.7mm or 0.8mm nozzle is a good choice. For a tune designed to take advantage of methanol the 1.0mm nozzle is the size most commonly used. Also make sure to verify the quantity being injected by placing the controller in test mode and measuring the amount being injected over 60 seconds. You may well need to adjust the pump pressure to achieve a minimum of 500 cc/min with the 1.0 nozzle. Finally, don't forget to periodically verify (every 6 months or so) that the system is still injecting the same amount. It is a mechanical system that will wear over time. Pressures and therefore flow will drop. If it does simply adjust the pressure again to reach the target flow.

 

I have been on a manic stage 3 with a jcw turbo map b 22.5 psi for over a year now. I also run the aquamist hfs3 system. I have gone from using a quart of oil in 3000 miles to not adding anything. Tops of my Pistons are super clean. Stock internals with 127,000 miles.

 

Josh, give Jan a call and ask his advice and try to skip his RMW sales parts in the conversation.
He sees many Manic and RPM motor issues after the “the Bad things” happen. Jan really writes tunes and does the mapping and understands it. He can tell you from real experience what is in the tunes and how they make power they do. In case you do not know Mario is just a “tune loader” for whatever product he sells. He used to sell Manic and now he sells RPM. He is not a true tuner as in writing the maps, he gets all his maps “tunes” sent to him by Manic and RPM to sell and they are just “canned tunes” for a price level. He is just an authorized dealer of tunes.