Its a common problem with the vacuum wastegate actuator on the R56. Vlad had the same issue with the JCW turbo up top. Take a look at DNA, JZW, RMW and Manic dynos and you'll see it quite a bit. The fluctuations occur too quickly to show up on a datalog but it''s always there. That's one reason we decided to add a boost port tap on the compressor housing. The next round of tuning is set to use an electronic boost controller. In our case well be using a Cortex EBC in conjunction with a Turbosmart wastegate. The nice thing about the Cortex is you can set independent boost levels for all six gears. Plus it stores six profiles. Takes a little longer to set up with a laptop but gives you much better control.
^ That's more like it. I was beginning to get worried about you Dave. I was starting to think you weren't feeling well or were on some kind of medication. But to the point there's nothing wrong with having a favorite tuner especially if your happy with the product and service you've received. I've installed Manic tunes on somewhere around 50 to 60 Mini's and have yet to have a client suffer an engine failure. Tuners however, whoever your favorite is are not magicians. If you lose an injector on a hard pull you can write off that piston. No magic fairy dust will save the engine. By the same token no tune will make a fuel line or water pump fail. Don't laugh at that last one as I subscribe to a great many tuning forums for a wide range of platforms and you'd be amazed at the drivel that gets out there. So back to my point above about fluctuations on the Prince engine I've attached dyno's from DNA, JZW, Manic, PAW, RMW and even stock tunes for comparison. Generally an Eddy Current style dyno will minimize the fluctuations but it still shows up. DNA/Battle Tuning JZW Tuning Manic Motorsport Precision Auto Werks Revolution Mini Works Stock There are a lot of tuning options out there. Some are pretty damn good and some not so good. What I don't see is any other tuner out there besides Manic that's offering three different performance modes while being able to switch back to stock at the flick of switch. Nor do I see anyone else offering the ability to alter their tune on the fly to take advantage of methanol injection or 100 octane racing fuel. That level of capability for the R56 is currently limited to aftermarket ECU solutions like the Motec M142 or M182.
I moved all the pictures in this thread to a non-HTTPS image server. Hopefully, that fixes the issue.
Stage 3 manic tune on JCW turbo with meth for almost 2 years now on my N18. I was probably one of the first few way back when.
I've had my 2013 N18 Manic tuned (what at the time was called Stage 2+) since Oct/Nov of 2014 with no issues. I do run meth injection on a map that does not require it.
@Tigger2011 @oldbrokenwind - or anyone else running a Manic tune. What water/meth mix are you running? I’ve been looking around and there is the Snow Perfomance mix at 50/50. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sno-40008/reviews/?page=3 I can also get VP M1: https://vpracingfuels.com/product/m1/ While doing some research, it appears people change this up quite a bit. Some folks say not to go below 80% meth, others are closer to 50/50. The mix ultimately adjust the intake and exhaust temps. Note, I’m new to the significantly modified turbo world, so doing as much research as I can. That said, I do need to order some before I run out.
@Sully, I'm also interested in a meth setup. If/when you get yours, I'll come up and give you a hand with the install if you don't mind.
@Qik - love to have you up. Mine already has the HFS-3 Aquamist setup installed. That said, I’m doing a lot of research on it and want to check a few things. Also depending on which gauges I get, will need at least install those. Welcome to join there. I also plan on doing a full service so I know where all the fluids are at etc.. my Bentley should be here in next day to two..
Word of advice, do NOT use Snows red 50/50 pre-mix. The dye and crap will clog your jets and have caused premature pumphead failure. For an R56 you want to run 50% VP M-1 and 50 distilled water. JAN or anyone with a Meth kit on a second gen should tell you that. I run 100% VP M-1 on my current HFS -3 and ran 100% Meth on my old HFS-6 system until the, no longer made, flow control valve failed. I am still using the same tank, pump and head that is used with the HFS - 6 system. You will really like the HFS -3 kit and it is easy to install. Oh here is nice trick when test flowing or bleeding your system. Take an empty 2 liter bottle and rinse out really well. Drill a small hole in the cap and take a jet and screw into the soft plastic cap. Put the cap on the bottle and you can use it to catch your meth or custom mix so you don’t spray fluid all over. You can see the spray pattern and 2 liters will not fill up to quickly.
Thanks! Great info... will give that a shot. I’m also researching that “Safty”.. I.e. I assume there is some sort of safty that if you run out of Meth it will put you in Limp mode or won’t let you over boost.. but still researching that one.
Yes the safety is built into the system. Check out the manuals you can download and read even before you buy. http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-063-hfs3-v3-1-system-a-truly-progressive-system-utilising-pwm-valve/
I started with a 50 - 50 mix, primarily for cooling, not an octane booster. Now my manic stage 4 wants an 80 - 20 mix --- add to the octane too. There are some WMI users that mix by weight instead of volume. Not sure how that works, but worst-case, my "volume" mix is a little lower than 80 - 20. Maybe add to your research? My HFS4 is about 5 years old and still pumping strong. Gotta emphasize keeping the system clean and contaminate-free. My original methanol source wasn't pure enough and plugged the FAV --- really stressed out Jeff H, working with me to get it fixed. Nothing but VP's M1 now.
VP M-1 is the only thing I have ever put in my system. Snow 50/50 Red color dye, windshield washer fluid and all the other colored pre-mixed all contain stuff that gums up the valves and the FAV (fast acting valve). Meth is clear and VP-M1 is the best .
OK - so it turns out I don’t have M1 coming to the house. I ordered it from VP and they put your order on hold until they contact you with shipping information. This turns out to be a good thing. Essentially the $55 order turned to $193.00. That put me in contact with a local dealer.. who is going to sell me the 5 gallons at ~ $32.00 so worked even better for me.
I read your other post and was wondering who the hell was shipping 5 gallons of Meth. It’s better to pick it up from a local speed shop. I would also say you should get a plastic 5 gallon race fuel jug with a hose line cap like I have. I place the jug on top of and old bucket and tilt it with the hose I a smaller 1 gallon jug. I fill the the plastic race fuel jug with the VP M-1 can. Oh when you open the VP 5 gallon can, and before you try and pour it, punch a few (3) holes on the opposite side to vent the can so it does not splash all over when pouring. I use a small tip,standard screw driver and a hammer to punch the holes. Then I fill a very clean used 1 gallon washer fluid bottle and use the small jug to top off my meth tank. It is much easier and safer then lifting the big 5 gallon jug with the hose and trying to fill a tank in your car. https://www.motosport.com/vp-racing-motorsports-jug-with-hose
Bookmarking all this info. I plan to install meth system sometime this year. Mainly for cooling purposes.