Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: Attempting my first coilover install....Got Qs.

Brakes I do myself, ever since a shop screwed mine up. They're not that hard, as long as you keep air out of the lines, it's an easy and kind of fun job.

Suspension, yeah I could do that myself, but I have a trusted shop that also does the alignment, and as it's hitting the track frequently, I'd just rather have them do it. Suspension is a bit more comlicated, especially when you're setting it up/crossweighting/corner balancing, that I just defer it. Lot's of variables to address to get it right. With the suspension, I've seen enough people have headaches and issues that I'll just avoid all that, thank you very much. That being said, it's definitely a doable DIY, but in my situation it's just not for me. I just spent a boatload on coilovers, might as well pay someone who prepares racing cars to do it right the first time. As soon as the snow melts.

 

Why not call Way and ask for support after you get you order and see what he recommends you do?

I had a qualified, certified and insured mechanic install my suspension and brake components. I suggest that what you should do beside saving a few bucks doing something you have never done before.

Sure I could have done it, it's just nuts and bolts, but why risk it and the safety aspect of it.

 

Just something you should think about....

87k miles eh? Do they put salt down on the roads where this MINI has lived?

The #2 bolt that holds the rear damper to the aluminum trailing arm is what's known as a "self tapping" bolt.... MINI did this to save.... Oh, I don't know $0.50 maybe..... Instead of using a pre threaded hole and a normal bolt....

RealOEM.com * BMW R56 Cooper S SINGLE COMPONENTS FOR REAR SPRING STRUT

Now what happens is water will eventually wick into this connection and corrosion will begin.... And if the water is salty.... It speeds up the corrosion... The second thing about this connection is the fact that the trailing arm is aluminum and the bolt isn't (for obvious reasons you don't want an aluminum bolt here)... But dissimilar metals in this connection is just another nail in the coffin as far as corrosion is concerned.....

The reason for me mentioning this is the real possibility you will strip out the aluminum threads in the trailing arm when this bolt is removed...

All is not lost if this happens..... Things like a "threaded insert" can be used for repair ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,..... Don't use the same oem MINI bolt as it is actually tapered slightly needed for thread forming into the soft aluminum arm..... Replace it with a high strength fastener....

As a side note, I pulled those two OEM bolts on my MINI at around 5k and added threadlocker (designed for disassembly).... Basically filling the gap between the bolt threads and the aluminum threads with Locktite so moisture can't wick in to start the corrosion...

If you attempt this work or have it done by someone, this is an area you should be prepared for....

A second thing you will need for the rear dampers is a conical washer adapter to mount the KW unit to this very same bolt.... Way would have this for you....

Ummmmm.... And good luck.....

 

All do respect a rocket scientist and engineers are very smart but that does not make them a trained mechanic. Some things are so easy anyone can do them but this is not something I would take on without a person that works on cars (MINI's) specifically.

You have invested 3 k in parts so far and the best insurance is or have them installed by a pro.

 

No, I just look forward to your "Help WTF did I do wrong posts"

 

Actually, Dave is more like how you described yourself than a track nut; hit him up, your goals sound virtually identical.

 

No help here. Bump Bump.

Jason

 

Ok good luck

 

I have the TSW KW V2 and the are good right out off the box but the springs are not that great after a year of hard driving. They are fine on the street but the Springs are too soft for really hard driving because they are 336 LBs on all four corners.

I upgraded the springs to Swift Springs (400 front 450 rear) and got rid of the silly helper springs. My TSW / WMW KW V2's are so much better now and even preform much better that the TSW KW V2 setup when it was brand new.

My car has excellent weight transfer in the corners and the car turns in great now. Granted my set up in not a complete JRZ set up but is 50% cheaper. I also do not think the JRZ 's would be a 50% upgrade from what I have now but that's my personal opinion.

Don't forget the right tires are required to run really hard to take advantage of the suspension and for me nothing is better than the Dunlop DZ II's. Michelin Pilot SS are a nice tires but they are too cushy for me I want crisp turns and excellent grip over everything else and the Michelins simply do not and can not offer that when pushed hard over and over. That also why Michelin makes a cup tire but they cost $$$$$.

*** FYI ***
Long before Way bought TSW the TSW springs on the TSW coil overs were Swift Springs. Somewhere along the way KW said they could make the same spring as Swift. :nonod: This has proven time and time again to not be true.

No body makes Springs as good as Swifts and that's why they are always an additions $$ option on every high market coil over setup.

 

BSTER 13 You should be fine with everything you have selected so far.

I am not the track nut I drive my car on the street and my wife even rides in my car up to NYC and back sometimes. PA, NJ and NYC roads are horrible and I would never take a track car on those roads. If I was a track guy my car would be even more rigid and on a trailer.

My car was and is daily driver it just not stock by any means. :devil:

You and your wife will be fine with the TSW V2 and as for a setting them I just set mine in the middle for the first 6 months to learn how the car handled with the new setup. After a while I adjusted the fronts firmer by 3 and increased the rear by one and set my anti-sway bar at the middle setting. This has worked out great for me. I have never bottomed out or compressed the springs completely and the car handles bumps with no issues.

I also had a really good shop do a nice street aggressive alignment for me after I put my Swift spings in this year and this was the best my car has handled yet. Hell Colin even liked it when we ran the dragon this year. Yup I let him drive and we all know he can be a D@#! but that what friends are for honesty.

FYI I get my car aligned after every major change to the suspension and rotate my tires every 3-5 K.

 

Yup with those specs and real tires you should be very happy with the results.