2nd Gen JCW Boost Breaking up through hard acceleration?

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by haliphics, Aug 23, 2017.

  1. haliphics

    haliphics New Member

    Dec 30, 2016
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    #1 haliphics, Aug 23, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2017
    This could be a plethora of problems (or I'm making it seem like that way and everything is fine.) So the other day I let my friends father drive my car and he has always wanted a mini but never actually drive one. He was even more excited since it's slightly modified. After he came back he said it felt like it was breaking up in 2nd and 3rd under hard acceleration between 4-6k rpms. So I took out and felt it and have no idea what it could be. A coil pack died a few months back and changed it out without doing a set. But it's not misfiring or breaking up like when my coil was going.

    Some other things I've notice is on the passenger side wheel well it sound like there might be a loose belt and a loud intake/venting soind. So maybe a boost leak through the cold side/noise maker?

    I just recently replaced the hot side charge tube with a muffler deleted silicone tube since there was a large hold on the top of the tube by the outlet of the turbo and the clamp.

    I checked every spark plug and they're all perfect still I changed them 8k miles ago.

    I put on a Forge BOV FMDVR60A. Went on just fine and worked fine. I put in the uprated red spring and while doing so the oring was shredded. So I put a new one in that fit but wasn't from forge. So every now and again it throws limp mode with no codes and goes away in a minute or so or stays in limp till I shut it off and turn it back on.

    A final nother weird issue is I have a milltek Catless downpipe which I got from a friend buy before I got it, he had a muffler shop reweld the top of the downpipe from the stress crack. And while installing it a bolt sheared In one turbo bolt hole on the turbo so we had to extract it and re tap the hole with a new size since we're dumb and for some reason this was a good idea probably because we both paniced. So now I have 2 stock studs and a bolt. So maybe it's not seating fully at the gasket?

    But a list of my current mods are
    AEM Cold Air intake
    Milltek Catless downpipe
    Forge BOV FMDV60A
    Turbo Muffler Delete silicone Tube.

    I am getting a tune from speed life around me but rather fix every problem before i tune it.

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  2. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    I am not the best guy for Gen2 problems but I will try. Could be a timing chain going bad. Is it showing any codes?
     
  3. haliphics

    haliphics New Member

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    Only code is for p0136 and p0141 for Catless downpipe. The chain was supposed to be done before I bought at the dealer and have 0 rattle from it. Just the typical noisy lifters.


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  4. vetsvette

    vetsvette MINI Alliance Ambassador

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    First thing I would do is replace the O ring on the BOV with the correct part. I agree with you that it's probably not the timing chain or you would definitely be hearing the "death rattle". Coil pack is still a possibility. If you have to put the car in service mode to check for that intake noise on the passenger side, while you're in there I would also replace the belt and if you still have the original plastic water pump, replace it with the newer metal version. You should check the crank pulley too while you're at it. I'm sure you've already thought of these things, but thought I'd throw them out there anyway.
     
  5. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    Turbo problems....... :rolleyes:
     
  6. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    It doesn't sound like the turbocharger, a bad turbo wouldn't work until it reaches higher pressures and then cut out, it would cause poor performance way before it reaches it's limits. I would look at the turbocharger bypass valve again. Do you have a boost/vacuum gauge? If not, you should get one to help diagnose this problem.
     
  7. haliphics

    haliphics New Member

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    I do have a boost gauge. I hit normally I hit between 13 and 16lbs and then it does over boost occasionally to 21. But I'm starting to think it might not be boost break up. After driving around yesterday and trying to find it, it was more of a sputter for a second then it would continue to normal. So maybe something with the coils? Or maybe even a tune can fix it?

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  8. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    If you have aftermarket coil packs, they could be the cause of your problem. OEM coil packs are the best and can be used with higher horsepower mods.

    The Engine Control Unit will cut boost if the boost pressure gets to about 23 psi. Maybe you are just touching that boost limit and the ECU is starting to cut boost.
     
  9. Grizld700

    Grizld700 Well-Known Member

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    So you're running a catless DP without a tune? My car (2007) does not like that. It will act very strange. Also, are you sure the repaired DP didn't fail again? I cracked once, its not as strong as it was when new.
     

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