1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Brake lights and dash on, keys out

Update!

I had a crank-no-start situation Friday. The crank sounded strong. Took the battery to the local auto part store. The guy said it looked like it ought to be strong enough. Up to now I was convinced it was the battery since the dash and brake lights went off after charging it a bit.

The spark plugs looked OK. I didn't actually check the spark because the next day the battery was completely flat.

I also found the driver-side (left) floor to be soaked with water. I think this went unnoticed for quite a while since it was under rubber mats.

The carpet was soaked only on the flat bottom. I couldn't find any dampness behind the pedals or near the door. Passenger side appeared dry.

Pouring water in the sunroof drains was inconclusive. It seemed to be draining fine, but i don't know. So my next step will be to pull back the roof liner to look at the hose in there.

But I really think it might be the A pillar gasket. That exterior trim piece doesn't look like it was put on very well.

I'll post a pic if it's light enough when I get home.

Should I go ahead and get another battery, or just charge this one one up to continue the diagnosis?


Thanks to everyone for the tips.

 

I did a load test after charging the battery back up. It only dropped to about 11.3V while turning it over. 12.76V with the key off, and about 13.1V before I reconnected it to the car after charging.

I noticed a sticker on the battery that said "4/12" which I guess is its birth date. It seems fine for now.

I also put my multimeter to the spark plugs and couldn't get a reading on two of them because the tip was burned down past the insulation. On the 20K Ohm setting, I got a reading of about 16 on one and 3 on the other. So I'll buy a new set of plugs.

However, I don't think this is the source of the mysterious brake and dash light situation. I left the freshly charged battery on it, I'll see If they're on tomorrow. I'll also check the battery level.

 

What is a proper load test then? Is it any more than measuring the voltage drop while turning it over for about 20 seconds? I have googled it, but that's all I came up with.

I do realize the battery is at the end of its expected life, but I would like to test it properly.

 

I think I can rule out the battery.

It passed the load tests. I borrowed a good battery and it still won't start.

The ground wire is fastened tightly.

The fuel pump kicks on, the filter is new, it gets spark. It turns over at a normal rate.

Next is to check the fuel pressure and voltage at the fuel pump, I suppose.

Also, when I had the fuel pump replaced, it was actually the sending unit.

 

Just thought of this. When I looked at the fuel filter earlier to be sure it was replaced, the sending unit was slightly pressurized when I disconnected the fuel line from it but there wasn't any fuel sloshing around in there.

Shouldn't there normally be some fuel sitting inside the sending unit with the filter? The filter was wet.