Build thread as of 6.23.14 (turbo eventual twincharge build. CNC, tig welded, etc )

micro / boring ish update.

Finished the radiator plumbing! now just to finish off the intercooler plumbing this evening

needed a few fittings I did not have though, and I had some bar stock... so I decided just to make what I needed!
(let me know if these do not show up)


all of the individual pieces turned out. Needed a reducing T adapter from the heater core, and needed weld-fittings for the radiator overflow tank to hook to the lines.

"t" roughly assembled (recessed lip on the T fitting lines everything up nicely)




welded!


Probably one of the nicer T fittings you will ever see. haha!

finished off the overflow tank, welded on the fittings and ran the lines.

Probably will have to add a heat shield to this.. kinda close to the hot stuff. (shouldn't melt, just worried about radiant heat xfer )






That is all from yesterday!
(also got all of the lower radiator hoses run and tied together. only took 3 trips to advance and digging around the back to find hoses that would work and run where I needed them to! haha! )

 

well.. car is going back down.

On one hand,

YAY!! more parts to make!
and

YAY! going twincharged!

why?

Well I had the throttle pre-turbo. As designed.
It was stated that the comp turbo can handle a vacuum.
And it can.
*but* the turbulence caused by the throttle and short intake path does not allow for a rectifing zone for the flow to re-gain stability.

This means the flow maintains turbulence as it enters the turbine wheels which is causing an uneven loading on the compressor wheel (we think)

but the point of the matter is that it works. Works quite well.

But!

It makes a heck of a whirring sound and it makes me, my other engineering car buddies, and the engineers at comp all squirm, and not in a good way.

Good news is I knew something like this could happen, and had budgeted for it!

So new list of parts that are coming in.

4.5"x2.9"x8.5" bell w2a core. This will be going where the top mount for the SC was.

Synapse synchronic DV (diverter valve)

This will work as the "blow off" for the SC/turbo system

tubing to run it all together.

making a bolt-on adapter that will use an o-ring seat to seal to the front of the OE throttle body (no silicon boost coupler here!)

OE throttle is being re-located post supercharger on the entrance to the intake manifold!
(if I cant have weird turbo response from spooling in a vacuum, I will at least have some throttle response!)

new (to me) intake manifold is on its way for me to cut into / modify for ^^ and vacuum ports

re-locating a2w pump and resevoir to trunk of vehicle.

no interstage cooling. (bell core above is sized to work for this application just fine. it will be post SC )

Working on a method to best bypass SC when wanted (aka when the turbo kicks in)
- current thought is re-working an OE diverter valve to use a spring returned linear actuator that will open during boost. from the SC inlet.

that is all for now!

here is the whirr (i have done subsequent testing and shown that the bearings are fine, and it does not make this sound when not restricting the intake side of the turbine)

Pre turbo throttle vibration - YouTube

 

Prepare for Boost!!!

well somewhat...


So,

How do we successfully mount piping to the throttle body if it will be seeing boost pressure?

Well, the typical way would be to use a sylicone coupling and worm-clamp the ever living crap out of it. no?

Well in what way is my build typical :haha: !


So, I started by machining of that pesky retaining lip that was interfering with my design feng shui !




Then I machined out this nifty little adapter that I designed last night.



This is designed to rest over the inlet to the throttle and incorporate a square o-ring seal that will mate with the very top edge of the throttle body inlet.
This way as it gets bolted down it will compress the o-ring and create a seal!

O-ring seat lip is machined so that when not bolted, the bottom of the adapter will be .01" from fully seating (allows the o-ring to compress .010" for sealing)



revearse side with o-ring



The top of this adapter is also 2.5" OD with an .065" wall.

This will allow for easy welding to tubing or to a vanjen joint.

seated in place! (but not bolted down)


Working on the throttle body mounting flange now, then I need to go home and start cutting up the new R53 intake manifold I got from a junk yard in atlanta.




few more images for the evening
assembled sealing mechanism.


cut the flange off, filed it smooth, and cleaned the donor intake manifold

(cleaned for welding prep)


okay, so i mocked the manifold and new flange up, clocked, marked, and then welded the flange on



pardon the mess in the background. lots of stuff going on.




Then, if you scroll up a tad, you will notice that the old intake manifold that i cut the flange off of was not exactly what we would describe as round.

In fact, that profile would make a rather atrocious wheel.

but!

I decided to see if I could smooth things out, and it came out quite well

opcorn:


Welded the inside to add some metal and bridge the two profiles (a PITA considering the torch does not really fit in the opening for welding this)




Then i took a dremmel with a flapp disk and some aluminum cutting fluid to help lubricate the chips and extend the life of the disk a little bit and went to town on the weld bead at first and then smoothing the transition till I got it where i liked

(made a small mess)




cleaned up a tad




did a little touch up filing on the edge so as to allow for the use of the OE intercooler mount




and an ultra potato quality photo of the throttle assembly all bolted on!


(phones camera is great, but things get weird when it is back-lit :lol

 

Why thank you

While I posess many tallents, and I can even do some sheet metal work, I do lack the capability to accurately do complex bends on heavy sheet metal.

So I drew these up and they should be in my possession next thursday. (will be made from .125 6061 or 3003 sheet)



Should have some progress (major progress) next weekend when I have everything here

Some welding this weekend though, so not all is lost!

(new compressor housing here tom. and some pre-SC piping work to complete.
Then I still need to lay out and start making the new w2A ic resevoir.

 

time for the weekend update:
I was a good and forgot to refill my argon cylinder, so no welding (and believe me, I kicked myself a few times)

but I had plenty of other things to do


New compressor housing came in over the weekend,


So as per my usual self, I started drilling and cutting into it

This one is surge ported as well.

drilled a hole and tapped it for boost reference for the boost controller





The green stuff is aluminum cutting fluid.
Without it the threads would not have come out so nicely in this soft casting (half would probably be missing)


Then I cut off the outlet, leaving enough of a stub for getting my welding torch in.
Ported the inside out to the right size, then I polished the inside (and outside) of a tight radius cast bend, cut a little bit of leg length off of it, chamfered the two ends, and it is ready for welding! (this is where i realized I was out of argon )





So since I couldnt work on that,

I decided to work on mocking up intake plumbing!
After all the new bell core is in, pipe is in, tubing is in, I have the vanjen and wiggins joints still (new set of wiggins ferrules came in for that clamp)
and I have 3d printed mock-up transitions while the local shop bends them out of sheet metal for me!
(i do not have a bender that can do the complex geometry and thickness of material for the transitions)


So, I re-worked the turbo inlet pipe


Tucks around everything nicely and allows for OE hookups for the coolant system and clears the radiator fan.

another shot




since I could not weld on the compressor housing I mocked it up and put it on the car



And skipping several steps,

Plumbing is roughed in!




Still need to finish cutting the little end bits for the intercooler,

And I have hidden one pipe section as it is going to be for something super nifty.

But I have to test out some pneumatics to see if it works first before I show it off.

All I have to say is I am also making this, it has to do with it, and it is gonna be purdy



As well as a regulator, one way valve, and a return spring and a butterfly valve...

Fun fun


Hope the weekend is going well for everyone!

 

first piece done!
only messed up one about an hour in, so I had to start over.

all the manual steps and other bits and making jigs etc took ~ 5-6 hours just for this one piece. O.O

worth it? worth it.

 

well, it works!
All that is left is to make the mount, trim the actuating bar, tap it as needed for threads etc, and make the bit that will attach to the stock BPV!

but lets be honest, you all just want pictures... you WHORES! (jk.. )

parts needed / I made.
all this started as raw material from mcmaster car (lip seal, o-ring, and rod bearing aside) and round metal bar stock.



assembled piston


this was made by turning down the shaft from .375 to .3125 for a 0.245" section. then drilling a .201" diameter hole in the center of the shaft and tapping it for 1/4 -20 threads.

I then took a 0.515" thick piece (rough cut) of 1.625" OD aluminum bar stock and turned it down to 1.483" OD and faced it to 0.499"

I drilled a 0.25" diameter hole through the middle and then used a 0.3125" Diameter end mill to touch off and "drill" 0.25" deep into that same hole.

I then flipped the piece and used a 0.375" mill to put a 0.125" deep hole in that side.

I then faced the second side to have the profiles for the o-ring seat and top hat.

Then I made a jig in the mill, centered the piece, and told it to drill the bolt holes.

The turned shaft went into the 0.3125x.25" deep hole and was pulled into a press fit by using a low profile 1/4-20 bolt.

Makes sure everything is nice and concentric.

where the shaft is pressed in




just tight enough!
There is only about a .004" compression on the O-ring in the cylinder bore and the o-ring groove height is 1.30" (.005" taller than the o-ring)
This allows the o-ring to switch profiled ever so slightly and fill the cavity when it is compressed, but does not let it move too much which causes sticking.






I did some figuring when I was ordering stuff for this, and the spring rate is about 0.5lbs too low and it needs more pre-load compression.
(it was a 7.8 lb 0.625" long spring for a 0.5" throw, so only 0.125" of pre-load)
So i have ordered a new spring that will be here tomorrow and should work well.

Current spring fully actuates at 5-6"hg, new one will just begin to actuate at 5-6" and be fully open by 10"
(8.4lb 1" long spring giving 0.5" of pre-load or 4.2lbs of spring pressure at rest)

 

changed out the spring in the piston and now it works flawlessly.
Now i just need to mount it and finish up the intake plumbing.

for now, just a few more pictures.

welded up compressor housing



and a general plumbing shot.




hopefully the transitions in and out of the intercooler will be done tomorrow so I can pick them up and finish of the main part of the intake plumbing tomorrow.