Most liked posts in thread: Cams, headwork and track build

  1. czar

    czar New Member

    Mar 25, 2010
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    So you've taken the BIG plunge, as you already are aware, you are going to have a difficult time when re-assembly with keeping the 90 degree setting, without being able to lock the crank in position through the flywheel.
    As you've gone so far now, for absolute piece of mind remove your engine/gearbox, re-fit the oem flywheel (temporary) re-assemble engine, remove oem flywheel, and mark and machine drill your os giken flywheel, then have the balance of your os giken flywheel checked and adjusted as necessary.
    Alternatively when you've re-fit the cylinder head, take very very careful and precise dial gauge measurements through the spark plug hole, keeping a very careful eye as you re-fit the timing chain, and just a note, if your not sure or don't know, you MUST fit new camshaft sprocket bolts, with a tightening torque of;
    Vanos sprocket bolt: 20nm + a torque angle of 180 degree.
    Exhaust sprocket bolt: 20nm + a torque angle of 90 degree.

    If you need anymore information then let me know, and good luck.
     
  2. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

    May 6, 2009
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    The majority of the machining is CNC. A jig made specifically for the R56 from huge solid billet holds the head precisely while the work is performed. The final blending is done by hand, with many flow quality/quantity tests during the process.
     
  3. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    May 5, 2009
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    Sounds great, a few years away from giving it shot. What class are you running in?



    I'm not worried about finding out how good I really am.

    I'm worried about finding out how bad I really am.
     
  4. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    The head is off the car and stripped down. I will be dropping it off at Endyn this coming week.

    Like most projects I have already run into a snag. The procedure for timing the engine is to place the cam blocks on, aligning the cams, and then put a pin in that holds the flywheel (sometimes referred to as a TDC pin). In the case of the N14 engine, it is not actually TDC, all the pistons are at 90 degrees.

    This would not be an issue but, I already have an OS Giken clutch and flywheel, and the flywheel doesn't have a hole in it so the bottom end can be locked. I made some marks by hand to re-align the crank but I know that will not be near accurate enough to get the timing correct for re-assembly. I am not sure what I am going to do about this problem yet (suggestions are welcome). If the timing was done with the #1 piston at TDC, I would probably just use a dial indicator to locate TDC. I don't think that will work for this engine though as the timing is set with all the pistons at 90 degrees. I thought about just being very careful as to not rotate the crank while the head is off. That process seems extremely flawed though, I doubt I can get the chain back on the sprockets and properly tensioned without running the risk of moving the crank. hmm....
     
  5. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Sep 29, 2009
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    This should be very interesting.:Thumbsup:
     
  6. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

    May 6, 2009
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    Can you see evidence of a gasket breach?
     
  7. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2009
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    1. Very adventurous of you to break new ground on N14 internal work. :cool:
    2. Research suggests the stock ECU does not like cam replacements, hopefully you will not be stuck in limp mode, requiring an after market ECU?
    3. Exactly as K has queried, what was the assignable cause of the overheating?
    4. Congrats on the track car!
     
  8. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    There were a couple of spots around #3 that looked suspicious, but nothing definitive. The stock head gasket is a multi layer gasket, and I literally mean multiple layers of metal gasket laying right on top of each other, so it could be leaking through any of the different layers. This is actually kind of what I expected. Because the car was only overheating under high boost levels, and street driving was fine, I was not expecting to find a smoking gun with respect to the head gasket.
     
  9. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    There are actually a couple of people that have done some of this work before. They have just not been very forth coming with what they did and what worked and didn't. Mostly in Europe. I have been researching the issues with aftermarket cams in an R56 and am just having to take a leap of faith in this area. That is some of the reason I decided to go with the least aggressive cam.

    I am not aware of any stand alone ECU that would be capable of running the MAP thermostat and the direct injection.
     
  10. Mike

    Mike New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    R56 build thread! Nice, keep it coming.
     
  11. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2009
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    We are crossing our fingers for you. :Thumbsup:

    It will be great to see it out on the track when you have it all done.
     
  12. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    Perhaps I should list some of the pieces that are already on the car.

    TSW KW V2 Coilovers
    TSW End links
    TSW lower control arms
    TSW Camber plates
    TSW X-brace
    TCE Willwood Plus 4 brakes
    OS Giken Clutch
    OS Giken LSD
    DoS Intake
    Sneed Speed Oil Cooler
    Sparco Evo 2 Plus seats - Driver and Passenger
    Sparco wheel with Works Bell quick release hub
    Custom half cage
    Custom brake ducts
    AutoMeter boost gauge
    AutoMeter temp gauge
    AutoMeter oil pressure gauge
    AutoMeter Air/Fuel gauge
     
  13. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Sep 29, 2009
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    Huh..... Looking down the cylinders, I've never seen an engine, where all the pistons seem to be at the same level. So is this unique to an engine where the pistons are at 90 degrees? I always thought this was not the way to design an engine.:confused5: Aren't most engines phased so vibrations are cancelled?
     
  14. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    #12 btwdriver, Jul 18, 2010
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2010
    They are not all traveling in the same direction. Some on the way up, some on the way down. They are also not on the same phase, i.e. intake, exhaust etc. They are just all passing through the same physical position.
     
  15. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Thanks!
     
  16. YesIFit

    YesIFit New Member

    May 25, 2009
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    Damn ... good luck Brian. If it works out, that thing's going to be a friggin' MONSTER!
     
  17. JDinho

    JDinho New Member

    Mar 11, 2010
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    Watching this thread with great anticipation, good luck!
     
  18. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

    May 7, 2009
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    Very cool :Thumbsup: First time seen the internals of an R56. Like an earlier post, isn't the ECU the hold up in doing mods on the R56?
     
  19. btwdriver

    btwdriver New Member

    May 4, 2009
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    The ECU is certainly very picky but I don't think enough people have done engine work to say that the ECU is the sole hang up. If we were talking about slapping a huge turbo on here then yes I would say that is the issue.

    I will make sure I keep everyone updated as the whole project unfolds.
     
  20. Rally

    Rally New Member
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    May 5, 2009
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    Awesome work so far. I'm definitely following this.

    If you ever get a chance and are working on the bottom end, I'd love to see what it's like inside the oil pan and what the pickup looks like. I've always been curious if there's room to shorten the pan a bit.