So you've taken the BIG plunge, as you already are aware, you are going to have a difficult time when re-assembly with keeping the 90 degree setting, without being able to lock the crank in position through the flywheel.
As you've gone so far now, for absolute piece of mind remove your engine/gearbox, re-fit the oem flywheel (temporary) re-assemble engine, remove oem flywheel, and mark and machine drill your os giken flywheel, then have the balance of your os giken flywheel checked and adjusted as necessary.
Alternatively when you've re-fit the cylinder head, take very very careful and precise dial gauge measurements through the spark plug hole, keeping a very careful eye as you re-fit the timing chain, and just a note, if your not sure or don't know, you MUST fit new camshaft sprocket bolts, with a tightening torque of;
Vanos sprocket bolt: 20nm + a torque angle of 180 degree.
Exhaust sprocket bolt: 20nm + a torque angle of 90 degree.
If you need anymore information then let me know, and good luck.
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Sounds great, a few years away from giving it shot. What class are you running in?
I'm not worried about finding out how good I really am.
I'm worried about finding out how bad I really am.-
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The head is off the car and stripped down. I will be dropping it off at Endyn this coming week.
Like most projects I have already run into a snag. The procedure for timing the engine is to place the cam blocks on, aligning the cams, and then put a pin in that holds the flywheel (sometimes referred to as a TDC pin). In the case of the N14 engine, it is not actually TDC, all the pistons are at 90 degrees.
This would not be an issue but, I already have an OS Giken clutch and flywheel, and the flywheel doesn't have a hole in it so the bottom end can be locked. I made some marks by hand to re-align the crank but I know that will not be near accurate enough to get the timing correct for re-assembly. I am not sure what I am going to do about this problem yet (suggestions are welcome). If the timing was done with the #1 piston at TDC, I would probably just use a dial indicator to locate TDC. I don't think that will work for this engine though as the timing is set with all the pistons at 90 degrees. I thought about just being very careful as to not rotate the crank while the head is off. That process seems extremely flawed though, I doubt I can get the chain back on the sprockets and properly tensioned without running the risk of moving the crank. hmm.... -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
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This should be very interesting.
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Can you see evidence of a gasket breach?
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1. Very adventurous of you to break new ground on N14 internal work.
2. Research suggests the stock ECU does not like cam replacements, hopefully you will not be stuck in limp mode, requiring an after market ECU?
3. Exactly as K has queried, what was the assignable cause of the overheating?
4. Congrats on the track car! -
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I am not aware of any stand alone ECU that would be capable of running the MAP thermostat and the direct injection. -
We are crossing our fingers for you.
It will be great to see it out on the track when you have it all done. -
Perhaps I should list some of the pieces that are already on the car.
TSW KW V2 Coilovers
TSW End links
TSW lower control arms
TSW Camber plates
TSW X-brace
TCE Willwood Plus 4 brakes
OS Giken Clutch
OS Giken LSD
DoS Intake
Sneed Speed Oil Cooler
Sparco Evo 2 Plus seats - Driver and Passenger
Sparco wheel with Works Bell quick release hub
Custom half cage
Custom brake ducts
AutoMeter boost gauge
AutoMeter temp gauge
AutoMeter oil pressure gauge
AutoMeter Air/Fuel gauge -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
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- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
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Huh..... Looking down the cylinders, I've never seen an engine, where all the pistons seem to be at the same level. So is this unique to an engine where the pistons are at 90 degrees? I always thought this was not the way to design an engine.:confused5: Aren't most engines phased so vibrations are cancelled?
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They are not all traveling in the same direction. Some on the way up, some on the way down. They are also not on the same phase, i.e. intake, exhaust etc. They are just all passing through the same physical position.
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Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
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- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
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I will make sure I keep everyone updated as the whole project unfolds. -
Rally New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
Awesome work so far. I'm definitely following this.
If you ever get a chance and are working on the bottom end, I'd love to see what it's like inside the oil pan and what the pickup looks like. I've always been curious if there's room to shorten the pan a bit.
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