1st Gen R53 Cooper S Catalytic converter rubbing on k brace ?

You don't need pollly mounts or any other parts you need to put the resonator support plate back on the car.

That plate with the exhaust rubber bushing hold the exhaust up and keep the header flex joint from flexing too much. You better fix it soon because the next thing that will happen is your flex joint will fail.

Good luck

 

Yeah me too until it took mine off and destroyed a flex joint on a crap header with a straight back exhaust. All of those little weak bushing work together to hold the exhaust in place firmly and allow very little flex.

 

Nice job glad I could help out.

 

I've seen a few different braces hit the cats as the flaw is just in the shape and design of the brace. Therefore we don't install or recommend those braces. You also shouldn't get vibration in the floor after installing the brace, that is really odd. The brace should stiffen the car.
You were correct if you have worn engine mounts the engine can rock more and give you the rattle against the brace.

 

I once knew a guy who spent too much time rubbing his k-brace with his catalytic converter.

He went blind.

 

True story.....:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

Will need a lot more to get 300 hp and alta CIA will lose you onus sucking in all the engine heat better of with stock than alta, stock intercooler with diverter will suck if you have cams me injectors need a gp intercooler at least and the 440 spray pattern isn't great better of with the 550s, also get your engine mounts changed you should see or feel that engine moving

 

Obx 4-2-1, with the mods above you would be looking at 220whp roughly so not near 300, either get a jcw air box and de-flap it or these which are all tried and tested better than any open cones filters http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f610/hybrid-airbox-feedback-3221/

Or

http://orranje.co.uk/mini-generation-1/gen1-engine/orranje-stealth-cold-air-intake-kit-for-1st-gen-mini-cooper-s

Or make your own

 

300HP? Not even close.

300 HP on that engine...225k miles, right? Probably be cheaper to get an engine built for 300HP rather than try to do it with add-ons. If you're going to stay with that engine block, the first thing you need is to get it thoroughly tested.

First, your cam isn't going to help you. 440's will probably need to be replaced with 550's. You're going to need something other than the stock SC, either Rotrex, TVS (which I'm guessing will be your best bet), etc to get there. A cheap header is NOT the way to get to 300HP, that's the least of your worries, especially until you get a BVH, which you'll also need to get to 300HP. The wires don't matter. One stage colder plugs won't be enough. The intercooler won't add power, but will help you keep the power you have from evaporating in the heat. If you're truly going for 300HP, it's going to be expensive, and cutting corners isn't the way to go.

Exactly what/why do you want 300HP? It's just a number. If you have a goal in mind, i.e. the track, then more comes into play, if it's just 300HP, it's easier, but not sure why you'd want it.

 

Don't waste your money on the MSD ignition. The stock ones are fine, paint it red for more engine bay bling. :wink: As far as squeezing a high mileage engine that hard goes, you may end up rebuilding sooner than later. I understand the needs & wants of modding, but you have a high mileage motor. Proceed with caution.

 

Because I am now blind.

 

It took you this long? I went blind shortly after my 17th birthday. Damn k-braces...