So long story short, i go to remove some old generic studs from my car to install new and longer Turner Motorsport 90mm studs. Ended up being one hell of a project in the end... Things i have learned: 1) Generic cheap crap should not be used on a car if you plan to own it a while. 2) "To much Loctite", is no such thing concerning studs. The ones pictured were actually done by my brother using very little Loctite. The other 8, i installed and i globbed the stuff on thick, making removal a little bit easier. In the end, the Loctite broke down over the months from the heat in the brakes, and then provided itself as a "anti-corrosion/thread protector." KINDA, they were still a pain to get out, but they didnt take the 2 hours the otherside did. 3) I had one TSW stud on my car (third from the left in the photo) and it faired MUCH better then the others. Higher quality part from the begining makes a large difference in the end. 4) The TMS Studs are VERY nice and extra stout, even surpassing the TSW ones. 5) My hubs are fine. The threads are gunked up with trash, but a few passes with a thread restorer and everything is good. The metal in which the hub is machined from is MUCH higher quality then the studs...apparently. Anyways, just thought i would share and maybe prevent someone from all this garbage. :mad2:
I too had carp studs on my MINI.:mad2: I went back to using lug bolts. I think anything Turner sells is of high quality.
I think either them or the Bimmer World studs are the only two i would trust at this point. Nothing aginst the TSW/WMW studs directly, but there was differences seen with the eye. I really wanted the BW Race studs, but just couldnt justify the $10/stud. If that was the only option, then thats what i would have done, but TMS studs are a great 2nd Tier choice. Aaron (aranger) has had the TMS studs for a few years now, and they still look near new..
Good to know, esp for those of us switching tires every other week for events :crazy: TMS will be ordered soon.
that's exactly why I had ARP make mine..........they are by far the best stud out there of course the one draw back is they are expensive but as you have witnessed you get what you pay for............
Any word on which of the studs available are stretch to torque? I was told some are and I don't understand how that's supposed to work, esp. if the reason to use them is to make it easier to do regular wheel swaps. :skep:
Rumor has it that the TMS ones are also made by ARP, or were at one point and time. As far as stretch to torque, i have no idea. These cheap crap i pulled out might as well have stretched, and honestly could very well be the real issue.
Based on the price I doubt it. They are VERY expensive. The coolest thing is you can just spin the nut right on the stud it moves so smooth. Even after Ian thrashing the car with incredible brake temps they still just spin on like new
The cheap ones I has stretched. Felt it when torquing them down. Not confidence inspiring at all. Yanked them out. For those of you who want to make changing wheels easier using lug bolts you can pick up a couple of wheel hangers. Screw them in hang the tire & bolt them up. Very easy to do.
Those are like the ones that I have. Now that an M/A sponsor has them that would be my plan. Outmotoring FTW.... MINI Cooper Wheel Lug Bolt Guide Tool Wheel Hanger
I have the TSW studs and they have performed well, but the finish has not been good. Most of the exposed threads are rusty. Was planning on replacing them with this winters tire change over and now I know which ones to get!
I've had Turner 75mm studs for 3 years. Great studs, nuts are high quality hardened steel, too. And yes, they're stamped ARP on the end. I have a picture floating around somewhere of the Turner studs side by side with the TSW studs. I have no doubts about the quality of the TSW studs, but the Turner studs are clearly better. That said, regardless of what stud you're using, you should pull them off every so often and give them the "lake test": throw them in a lake, and if they float, use them again. Heavily tracked cars should do this every year, longer for street cars. I'll replace mine this spring after 4 years of use.
Here in my shop we just heat the bolt up with a torch (they don't need to get cherry red, just hot enough that the loctite starts to break down), let them cool off and they back right out. The locktite comes out like a sugary white powder. Just don't reuse the studs again.... but they come right out, even the permanent loctite.
You can also use the two nut technique (I feel so dirty when I say that), if you have two bolts that will fit the studs--slide both down to the hub, lock the top one, and use a wrench on the one closest to the hub--I had to do this on a stud that was stripped (that's the one thing I don't like about the Turner studs--the ends where the allen wrench goes is relatively easy to strip.). I'll probably replace all of mine at the end of this year, the Turner studs have held up well, but it's probably time. If you want to hear some horror stories about studs, talk to Way sometime....
Funny enough. I'm getting ready to remove mine and go back to the bolts. I was wondering how hard it was to remove these.