Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: Cautionary tale of cheap studs...

I too had carp studs on my MINI.:mad2: I went back to using lug bolts. I think anything Turner sells is of high quality.

 

Good to know, esp for those of us switching tires every other week for events :crazy:
TMS will be ordered soon.

 

that's exactly why I had ARP make mine..........they are by far the best stud out there
of course the one draw back is they are expensive but as you have witnessed you get what you pay for............

 

Based on the price I doubt it. They are VERY expensive. The coolest thing is you can just spin the nut right on the stud it moves so smooth. Even after Ian thrashing the car with incredible brake temps they still just spin on like new

 

The cheap ones I has stretched. Felt it when torquing them down. Not confidence inspiring at all. Yanked them out.

For those of you who want to make changing wheels easier using lug bolts you can pick up a couple of wheel hangers. Screw them in hang the tire & bolt them up. Very easy to do.

 

Those are like the ones that I have. Now that an M/A sponsor has them that would be my plan.

Outmotoring FTW.... MINI Cooper Wheel Lug Bolt Guide Tool Wheel Hanger

 

I have the TSW studs and they have performed well, but the finish has not been good. Most of the exposed threads are rusty. Was planning on replacing them with this winters tire change over and now I know which ones to get!

 

I've had Turner 75mm studs for 3 years. Great studs, nuts are high quality hardened steel, too. And yes, they're stamped ARP on the end.

I have a picture floating around somewhere of the Turner studs side by side with the TSW studs. I have no doubts about the quality of the TSW studs, but the Turner studs are clearly better.

That said, regardless of what stud you're using, you should pull them off every so often and give them the "lake test": throw them in a lake, and if they float, use them again. Heavily tracked cars should do this every year, longer for street cars. I'll replace mine this spring after 4 years of use.

 

If I should run into problems getting them out what are some tips on getting reluctant studs out.

 

Here in my shop we just heat the bolt up with a torch (they don't need to get cherry red, just hot enough that the loctite starts to break down), let them cool off and they back right out. The locktite comes out like a sugary white powder. Just don't reuse the studs again.... but they come right out, even the permanent loctite.

 

So my propane torch should work then...........

Thanks

 

Yup, but focus the heat on the studs..... and let them cool back down.

And then throw them away...

 

Found it. Turner stud and nut on the left, TSW stud and nut on the right:

 

You can also use the two nut technique (I feel so dirty when I say that), if you have two bolts that will fit the studs--slide both down to the hub, lock the top one, and use a wrench on the one closest to the hub--I had to do this on a stud that was stripped (that's the one thing I don't like about the Turner studs--the ends where the allen wrench goes is relatively easy to strip.).

I'll probably replace all of mine at the end of this year, the Turner studs have held up well, but it's probably time.

If you want to hear some horror stories about studs, talk to Way sometime....

 

Funny enough. I'm getting ready to remove mine and go back to the bolts. I was wondering how hard it was to remove these.

 

My roomie in school used to tell 'em that her police officer boyfriend should be home in 10 minutes or so....






ba dum dum!