1st Gen R53 Cooper S CEL P2096 Code

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by mini_racer, Mar 8, 2011.

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  1. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    This is one of those codes that some are plagued with chronically and others never see at all.

    This code has been bugging me for about 5 months now and I am hoping I have determined the assignable cause.

    So, what is wrong with this picture?
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Professor

    Professor New Member

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    Well I think you found it ;)
     
  3. minimark

    minimark Well-Known Member

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  4. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Some of the many causes of this code include intake and exhaust leaks that introduce too much unmetered air into the system. Since that O2 in the pic above is the one that is reading too lean, I think I have the issue resolved.
    I have a question on these 'hard' codes that need special equipment to clear permanently. Doesn't the ECU automatically clear/reset codes after a few starts of issue resolution? My plan is to just clear with my iPhone/Rev app, and then see what happens. However, if it comes back I am not sure if it is because it was a hard code or because I still have something to fix ? Any code experts out there?

    And here is another pic of the failed gasket. [​IMG]

    To be honest though, I might need to adjust those flanges for a perfect fit, a 3 bolt flange would fit more securely but would be very difficult to get at the third bolt.
     
  5. Eric@Helix

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    I would have a closer look at that header. That gasket failure may well be the cause of the code, considering that the O2 sensor bung is too close to the flange, but have a look at the collector welds. See any cracks? I wouldn't be surprised if there's another cause for that code. The best way to tell if you've solved the problem is to reset your adaptive values with a tool that reads and resets BMW proprietary diagnostic codes.
     
  6. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    Excuse my ignorance, but what is indicating a failed gasket in this pic?

    And how can air be sucked into an exhaust system that is under pressure? Venturi principal?
     
  7. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    #7 mini_racer, Mar 8, 2011
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2011
    The black spot on the heat shield is soot from the exhaust leaking from that header to cat-back flange.

    Under a constant WOT condition, certainly there is pressure. However, in other conditions air can be sucked in. In this case the O2 sensor is really close to that leaking gasket, even though it is actually upstream.
     
  8. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    Ahhh......I thought that was a shadow.
     
  9. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Eric and damn, looks like I do need to get to a shop. All welds look good, but my inspection was somewhat limited as the header is still installed.
    I am still a little concerned about the flange mating, with the new OEM 2 layer spring stainless gasket installed there remains a small gap between the flanges that the gasket must fill, of course this is right where the leak was found. So yeah, technically the gasket failed, but it had help.
     
  10. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    Even if a Victor Reinz gasket was used, it is a 2.5 flange mating with a 2.25, there's not much surface area to seal. Consider a 2.5 flange and transition section in place of OEM, it will also smooth that reversion step it has currently.

    On the header you have, an inspection from the head flange side will show more than can be seen at the primary tube exit side.
     
  11. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    #11 mini_racer, Mar 8, 2011
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2011
    Something else to look at on my original pic.
    [​IMG]

    Note the small black spot surrounded by a white ring, on the weld seam of the pipe to the resonator on the JCW catback. If you look down the pipe, looking into the resonator, it is roughly at the 1 o-clock position. It is very small, but it is a pinhole. I am sure not big enough to contribute to my code, nonetheless.....
     
  12. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    So Eric, with only only ignition cycle since the fix and the code clear, CEL is off.
    More specifically, and sorry if I have some of the terminology wrong here....

    1. Should I expect the CEL to stay off, if in fact the problem is remedied? Also, as mentioned earlier, I thought codes 'go away naturally' within 3 ignition cycles of the fix even if you do not deliberately clear it, is that true?

    2. Or will it come back after 1 2, 3, 4, ...20 ignition cycles because it is a BMW proprietary code?

    3. Are you aware of any DIY priced solutions that can 'reset your adaptive values with a tool that reads and resets BMW proprietary diagnostic codes' ?
    Or does this code and others like it always mean that you must go to a dealership or shop with special diagnostic equipment?

    Thanks for any help
     
  13. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    And this is what the 'failed' aftermarket gasket and a new OEM gasket look like together.
    Aftermarket: it looks like a thin copper perforated base metal sandwiched in between 2 layers of an asbestos-like material, of course it is not really asbestos.
    OEM: 2 layers of spring stainless tack welded on each end close to the bolt holes.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Well, just crapola!
    My code is back after 4 starts, so I am not sure if it is back because the issue has not been resolved OR because I need to 'reset my adaptive values with a tool that reads and resets BMW proprietary diagnostic codes'.

    Any advice?
    1. Get back under the car and verify the leak has been stopped.
    2. Hmmm, should I just take it to a shop/dealership with the aforementioned tool, let them clear it and then hope for the best?

    Any better ideas ?
     
  15. minimark

    minimark Well-Known Member

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    Just went through this and the code will come back no matter what you do untill you have the adaptive values cleared. Find someone with the Bavtech or autoenginuity software, those will clear them or your going to have to take it to the stealership. Goobers here said it takes over night to clear, Blimey cleared mine with his autoenginuity in minutes and it has not come back.

    Thing is until it is cleared the light not only comes on but the ECU reacts as if the problem still exists. :(
     
  16. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Ok, taking it to the local shop with the Autologic tool to clear those damn adaptation values.

    If the damn code come back after this it will be time for a smoke test.
     
  17. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Might be about time you broke down and picked up a tool that can clear this stuff yourself...
     
  18. mini_racer

    mini_racer Well-Known Member

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    Agreed, back in post #12 I asked about any DIY priced options that does have this capability. I thought the Autologic tool was $5K or something like that and I am interested in something more modestly priced.

    So, what are you aware of that can clear adaptations? The Rev app on my iPhone has great value to me, but it is not quite good enough in this regard.
     
  19. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    Off the top of my head I know that the Bav Auto stuff that FES has will clear them.

    The Bytetronic stuff will as well, but thats a hella expensive way to get a bit just the clear the adaptations.

    It has been written that there is a procedure you can to clear adaptations as well.

    1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand.
    2. The screen will have a number and the word “tEStâ€.
    3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
    4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system.
    5. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
    6. Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
     
  20. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    AutoEnginuity can be run on a laptop and purchased for about $500. I've seen BlimeyCabrio use it and it works.

    Order Online
     

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