Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: Chassis bracing

It would be redundant with a full cage. By full cage I mean something like this:

 

A well built roll cage is the answer to stiffness. :yesnod:

 

I don't track my car as much as many here do [2, sometimes 3 2-day hpdes a year], and I don't autocross, either. I do go to MOTD and travel the twisties, though. The K-Brace is fine for my car and it works for me and my car. That said, it all boils down to a matter of choice and that was the one I made for me, my car, and my wallet. Given the huge selection from which to choose, it becomes a matter of choice. If any one brace was the best out there, there would be no competition from which to choose and everyone would be buying just that brand. Just my 2c.

 

Jan recommending bytetronic is like Dave recommending the F56.

 

Cusco because if you look at it you will see it ties the mid section of the car together where you really need to stiffen the car up. The others only reinforce the front clip (sub frame) which is already stiff.

You need to tie in the Mid section in like real sub frame connectors do to stop the car from twisting at it weakest points. The front and rear sub frames are strong but you need to tie them together or make them just as rigid as the front and rear.

This is common with all uni-body cars.

 

I had a long argument on NAM with a guy on this, wish I could find the thread, the guy was going on and on about how much better the car drove on the street (he never took it to the track).

I tried telling him the only reason to install that thing was to keep the in-laws out of the back seat, but he's convinced it was one of the best "bang for the buck" mods out there. Hence my very strong belief in the Placebo effect.

 

Cusco. You can do it right, or you can do it cheap.

 

Neither of the upper braces are needed! If you look at the design of the body shell, all the suspension mounting points are about as rigid of a spot as they can get, and these cars are built strong. Pretty much the only other bracing that will have any effect is a cage!

 

Are building a pure track car with an unlimited budget? Or just making a damn nice daily driver for some random weekend events?

 

RussWK has a 1st Gen Vert that why his car flexed so much. (Roofless)

Everyone knows a car without a roof needs much more bracing.

 

Jason @ ILLICIT MOTORSPORTS did the cage, added three inch extension to steering column and installed quick disconnect with Momo steering wheel, and mounted the seat to fit me. I highly recommend him.

 

No offense, but a weld is going to be more stable than bolts. That brace has too many places where it can flex IMHO. My fourpoint is bolted in, eventually I'll have it welded in. I'd be hard braced (pun intended) to by a chassis brace that wasn't welded.

 

The only reason it is a bolt together erector set like kit is so it can be easily shipped & that makes sense for the folks selling them, not as much for the folks using them. Once installed welding all of the joints together would be the best way as has just been said. I just wanted to add my .02.....

 

One of Pete's finest... Adds the rigidity of a wet noodle!

And thats the way M7 paint looks a week after you take it out of the box.

 

Seriously? I honestly thought it was a tool shed engineered, salvage yard built DIY project. M7-not surprised.

 

Yeah, Jan would never recommend Bytetronik. Not because its a competitors product, but because it is a pile of crap that should never have been made! I was one of the first to buy into it, and its just not worth the headaches...
There will be a Bytronik burning party this year at the Dragon, there is at least two of the flash loaders getting the torch!

 

Cusco.

 

Well yeah but then again it's a little big and is not easily removable for some.:ihih:

 

With the Cusco you can dial in more turn in the car and still get more forward bite off the corner. 2 cents