2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Check ignition coil?

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by Rastoff, Jun 15, 2017.

  1. Rastoff

    Rastoff New Member

    Jul 13, 2016
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    Is there a way to check the ignition coil? I keep getting a "half power" warning indicator. When I check the OBDII all I get is a "missing" message and no codes.

    The power never seems to change and the car runs fine. A couple of times the right most coil (closest to passenger side) has been loose or not fully seated. At first I thought it was that, but I've also had the error come up and the coil was fully seated.

    I'd rather not replace the coils if I don't have to. I'd also like to just replace one if that's all I need. That why I'm wondering if there's some kind of check I can do to test them. Maybe a resistance check?

    This is not my pic, but it is the error I get:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

    Oct 27, 2015
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    If you have that than you have a code, you just need a code reader that can read BMW codes. I recommend Carly for BMW, it's a fairly inexpensive app (about $45) but you can code and read codes with it as well as register batteries. When I had bad coils my car stumbled real bad and lost power (and had that symbol). The car sounded like a Subaru. However, if the power is still there, and you have full boost that seems odd since when that light comes on the car will go into limp mode to prevent damaging itself. Could be any 1 or few of about ten thousand things. My guess is HPFP on it's way out since the car still runs ok.
     
  3. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

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    Also once one coil go's the rest follow VERY soon after so may as well change them all if that's what your issue is.
     
  4. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Qik do you know if Carly will work with any OBD reader. I have a PLX wifi reader that I use with Dashcomand on my iPhone.
     
  5. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

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    I see no reason it wouldn't I have a generic WIFI ODBII reader from Detroit Tuned and it works with Dash Command and Carly. Dash command is cool, but doesn't give you near as much as Carly gets you.
     
  6. Rastoff

    Rastoff New Member

    Jul 13, 2016
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    Thank you for the response. I thought it was odd too that there was no code. I just have a cheap reader and it actually had the word "missing" but no numerical code. I will check out Carly.

    Yes, I thought it was very strange to get this symbol, but the car seems to run OK. My thought was that it might have missed once or twice which could be enough to light the error, but still allow the car to run fine.

    Years ago I had a Firebird that had a similar issue. The check engine light would come on, but the car ran fine. I discovered that one of the spark plug wires had melted and was shorting against the header. The difference there was I actually got a code.

    In my case, the error clears itself after about 60 or 70 miles. It will return if the engine is placed under heavy load. For example, if I'm in 6th gear and just press the pedal a little more to pass a truck on the freeway or when I'm accelerating hard to get on the freeway on ramp. It's not random, just when under pretty good load.

    I don't know what HPFP is.
     
  7. Rastoff

    Rastoff New Member

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    To get Carly, I have to buy the app and the bluetooth adapter, right? That will be about $120.
     
  8. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Yes you do but it is nice having a wireless reader you use from your phone.
     
  9. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

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    #9 Qik, Jun 16, 2017
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2017
    You won't need the actual adapter that Carly offers, you can find less expensive WIFI and Bluetooth readers that will work just fine. It does seem pricey for an app but you'll get your money out of it after you do some coding, and registering a battery is also a huge plus. Granted you have to pay $10.00 to register one, but that beats the prices any dealership/shop that can do it.

    This is what I use:
    http://www.detroittuned.com/obdii-wifi-connector/
     
  10. Qik

    Qik Well-Known Member

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    Even if it clears itself from your display/goes out of limp mode, the code will be stored until cleared either by you with the Carly app or by BMW/MINI. By it running "ok" I assume you don't have full power. Could be just plugs, could be just coils, or both. Depending on mileage and how old the plugs are you may just have to go ahead and do a full tune up on it and be happy that those are you only issues being it an N14. HPFP is High Pressure Fuel Pump, and when they start to go, you'll go into limp mode every so often at random times when getting up to speed. Keep in mind there's open recalls for certain MINI's regarding the HPFP so check your VIN with the various MINI/BMW sites that can give you that coverage info.

    Here's our recall resource from this forum:
    http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/all-about-mini-coopers-17/mini-safety-recalls-123/
     
  11. Rastoff

    Rastoff New Member

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    Thank you for the help Qik.

    I took it to a mechanic and he read the code for me: 0x2885 (10373) Charge Pressure Deviation Plausibility <Below minimum expected. I have no idea what that means.

    I just found another thread on this code. I don't think it has anything to do with the ignition. Unfortunately, no one else seems to know what this means either. There's lots of speculation, but no definitive resolution.

    Also, it turns out that my body is simply not tuned to the car. The code cleared as I was driving and there was a noticeable increase in power. So, there is a loss of power, but the car runs fine.

    The HPFP has not been ruled out. I've just added the turbo waste gate and catalytic converter to the list of potential causes. I love this car, but I'm afraid it's going to take some time and money to repair.
     
  12. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    MINI's are like wives. They both high maintenance and cost a lot to keep them happy.
     
  13. Redbeard

    Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!
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    Off topic question: Your profile says SoCsl near Edwards AFB. Are you in Rosamond or Palmdale? I spent a ton of time racing at Willow Springs and generally hanging with folks up there.
     
  14. Rastoff

    Rastoff New Member

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    Tehachapi
     
  15. Tigger2011

    Tigger2011 Member

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    I would start with the simple things first. Get a can of electrical contact cleaner, remove the MAP and T-MAP sensors from the boost pipe and intake manifold. Spray cleaner on the sensor sides as well as the electrical contacts and let them dry then reinstall. Also look at the vacuum line between the wastegate actuator and pressure control valve. If the line is collapsed or split replace it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. Rastoff

    Rastoff New Member

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    Thanks Tigger2011. I checked the vacuum line and it looks ok. I might replace it anyway.

    Right now I'm leaning toward the turbo being the problem. I have a scanner on the way and that should help troubleshoot a little better.
     

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