If you have that than you have a code, you just need a code reader that can read BMW codes. I recommend Carly for BMW, it's a fairly inexpensive app (about $45) but you can code and read codes with it as well as register batteries. When I had bad coils my car stumbled real bad and lost power (and had that symbol). The car sounded like a Subaru. However, if the power is still there, and you have full boost that seems odd since when that light comes on the car will go into limp mode to prevent damaging itself. Could be any 1 or few of about ten thousand things. My guess is HPFP on it's way out since the car still runs ok.
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Also once one coil go's the rest follow VERY soon after so may as well change them all if that's what your issue is.
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I see no reason it wouldn't I have a generic WIFI ODBII reader from Detroit Tuned and it works with Dash Command and Carly. Dash command is cool, but doesn't give you near as much as Carly gets you.
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Thank you for the response. I thought it was odd too that there was no code. I just have a cheap reader and it actually had the word "missing" but no numerical code. I will check out Carly.
Years ago I had a Firebird that had a similar issue. The check engine light would come on, but the car ran fine. I discovered that one of the spark plug wires had melted and was shorting against the header. The difference there was I actually got a code.
In my case, the error clears itself after about 60 or 70 miles. It will return if the engine is placed under heavy load. For example, if I'm in 6th gear and just press the pedal a little more to pass a truck on the freeway or when I'm accelerating hard to get on the freeway on ramp. It's not random, just when under pretty good load.
I don't know what HPFP is. -
To get Carly, I have to buy the app and the bluetooth adapter, right? That will be about $120.
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This is what I use:
http://www.detroittuned.com/obdii-wifi-connector/ -
Here's our recall resource from this forum:
http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/all-about-mini-coopers-17/mini-safety-recalls-123/ -
Thank you for the help Qik.
I took it to a mechanic and he read the code for me: 0x2885 (10373) Charge Pressure Deviation Plausibility <Below minimum expected. I have no idea what that means.
I just found another thread on this code. I don't think it has anything to do with the ignition. Unfortunately, no one else seems to know what this means either. There's lots of speculation, but no definitive resolution.
Also, it turns out that my body is simply not tuned to the car. The code cleared as I was driving and there was a noticeable increase in power. So, there is a loss of power, but the car runs fine.
The HPFP has not been ruled out. I've just added the turbo waste gate and catalytic converter to the list of potential causes. I love this car, but I'm afraid it's going to take some time and money to repair. -
Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
MINI's are like wives. They both high maintenance and cost a lot to keep them happy.
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
Off topic question: Your profile says SoCsl near Edwards AFB. Are you in Rosamond or Palmdale? I spent a ton of time racing at Willow Springs and generally hanging with folks up there.
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Tehachapi
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Tigger2011 Member
I would start with the simple things first. Get a can of electrical contact cleaner, remove the MAP and T-MAP sensors from the boost pipe and intake manifold. Spray cleaner on the sensor sides as well as the electrical contacts and let them dry then reinstall. Also look at the vacuum line between the wastegate actuator and pressure control valve. If the line is collapsed or split replace it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Thanks Tigger2011. I checked the vacuum line and it looks ok. I might replace it anyway.
Right now I'm leaning toward the turbo being the problem. I have a scanner on the way and that should help troubleshoot a little better.