your spot on David, been one of those weeks. Note to self -fully engage brain before chiming in What started this in my addled head was cleaning the MAF with a eye towards removing PCV gasses. With the airflow following the path that it is it was not adding up that you would deal with that. Dirt/Dust certainly but not PCV gasses
For the justa, all you really have to do is remove the top of the air box (part #1). You will then see the MAF body to the left top (part # 7). You can not tell from the picture, but it is covered with a plastic grid (similar to the front grill) so you can't stick your fingers inside I guess. About an inch behind the grid there is a square, plastic box, witch sticks down from the top of the MAF body, slightly off center to the left. Inside the front of the box are the wires, protected in front by the grid and on the sides by the box itself. Now, release top hose clamp (part #11) and remove top of part #10 from part #9. Place a rag, towel or what ever, over end of part #9 to catch over spray. The cleaner is in a spray can with a straw. Stick the straw in one of the openings on the grid side of part #9 and give a short spray. move up one opening and repeat. Do this on two rows of opening to the left side of the grid. You don't want to touch the wires so, stick the straw just into the opening and blast away. The can says 10 to 15 blasts. Being me, I did 21. The stuff dries very fast, so let it sit a minute or two and put it back together in the reverse order from that listed above. I let it sit for an hour (to be safe) and then stated the car. I would guess that the MAF for the "S" is the same, so this should work on it as well. Jim
Jim, don't clean your MAF more than once a year if that often. The resistors are sensitive. It takes a long time (4+ years) for a MAF to get dirty unless the airbox isn't sealed properly or it's collecting atomized oil from an over oiled filter. Coincidentally, I just bought a 1989 Mustang GT for my fiancee as a suprise birthday gift. It was running okay for a 22 year old car. I pulled the airbox and the MAF to find that the filter wasn't seated correctly and there was dirt on the MAF. I pulled it did a gentle wipe with 95% alcohol and a q-tip. Q-tip was black and the resistors were shiny. I put the MAF back in and lit it off. The idle cleaned right-up and it gave back some butt-dyno felt torque. Engine spins up smoother too. Them two little wires make a HUGE difference. Unless I missed my guess EVERY MAF on EVERY CAR is going to be AFTER the filter. They measure the temperature, density, and approximate volume of the air coming into the intake all things that are DRASTICALLY different after they pass through a filtering element. The MAF should be the last sensor that air goes by before entering the throttle body so the computer can better calculate needed fuel for the mixture in the cylinder. Guess I did learn something about cars working on all of those Fords... LOL.
Nathan: Thanks for fixing the picture. I thought if I copied the link it would work, but it didn't. Redbeard: The parts guy, where I bought the cleaner, recommended cleaning after each filter cleaning (or replacement). You think that is too much? I used a spray, as I had heard "not to touch the wires". Jim
Best thing is to make sure the filter isn't over-oiled. This is very easy to do with the K&N filters. They are so thin that the oil tends to puddle a bit and not get evenly distributed. Guys I know who still run the K&N's will use a shop rag/paper towel to blot off the filter after oiling. Way to easy to over do them.
Yeah the spray is circut board cleaner. Generally effective. I prefer to use the q-tips as they give some extra effective cleaning. But, as I said, be VERY careful and use little force. Cleaning the MAF every time is too much. You should inspect it every time but don't clean it unless it is dirty. It shouldnt get dirty so long as the air filter is in place properly and if using an oiled filter the filter isnt over oiled. Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
The MAF housing on the R56 justa has a protective grid on one end, so really inspecting the wires is hard, even with a flashlight. Getting a Q-Tip in there would not be easy. How would cleaning often be damaging? I'm honestly asking here and not trying to argue. Just trying to hear all sides. Jim
The resistors that are wired into the MAF can have their respective linings corroded if hit with solvent on a regular basis (i.e. multiple times a year). If nothing else it's just a waste of time and effort being that it takes the aforementioned items to get one dirty. I've never looked at a Justa's MAF. If you can't pull the actual sensor from the tube you will have to stick with spraying it with the circut cleaner. I understand. If you don't know what you are doing you run a HUGE risk of breaking a resistor off the post using that method. I've just been doing that for years with various Fords I've had. So I know how to deal with it. Same reason I'm not willing to Seafoam my car for fear of hydrolocking it because I don't have any experience doing that.