2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Clutch and sport button

I have always found it easier to start off in first with the sport button on. I was on a MINI run this weekend put on by our local MINI dealer. They let a couple use a new Cooper Countryman with a manual and the guy was unaware of the sport button. I told him to use it and when I spoke to him at the next stop, he thought it was way easier to start off in first also.

 

You need to adjust your driving style, just ease off the gas peddle when setting off when in sport mode, you'll get used to it.

 

What is it that you think the sport button does, that would cause more wear on the clutch?

My understanding of it's function it wouldn't make and difference, unless you were revving the engine a lot more on take off - and it would do that to the clutch without the button being on - curious why it matters.....

 

I have tried to drive without the sport button activated and just can't. The car just feels too sluggish. I am going to invest in the module that automatically engages the sport mode when the car is started.

 

It really does not matter.

What wears out the clutch super fast is resting your foot on it while driving down the highway. Starting off in 2nd. gear is also not too good on a clutch.

It really does not matter if you have the sport button engaged or off. Slipping the clutch is what is harmful.

 

I think I'm actually gonna agree with Minidave on this one. :shocked: :smilewinkgrin:

The sport button on or off shouldn't affect your driving style to the point where you're burning out the clutch. I drive two different manual transmission cars daily - the differences should be more than sport/no sport - and I have no problems with the clutch. I'd keep an eye on this one and see if it happens again or the clutch gives you more issues. I'd wager that either there's deeper issues with the clutch or something else is causing the smell. You might have a look under the car to see if you ran over something, too.

 

I have the same question, my understanding is the Sport button primarily changes the throttle response and I also believe there is a tie in with the suspension

Once you get used to the difference in 'touch' of the gas pedal there should be no issue

 

No suspension involvement, it's steering.

 

Agree with Keith, it remaps the throttle response and quickens the steering a bit, and if you have an auto, it raises the shift points. No changes to the suspension.

Another way to think of the sport button is an "EPA defeat" button. Mileage tests are done with whatever setting the car starts up in, hence the reason why the button defaults to "off." Sport will drive the car the way the engineers intended.

 

Thanks for clearing that up Keith

 

It makes a significant difference in the automatic transmission settings, I can tell you that. For example, it won't go into 6th on the hiway unless you move the lever to manual and shift it there.

It also downshifts much earlier coming up to a stop, you almost have to reprogram your brain to continue driving a lot closer to the stop before you let off, or you'll find yourself driving to the stoplight! It also wants to hold the lower gears a lot longer - a LOT longer - under normal city driving conditions.
Like Ben wrote - EPA defeat button!

I tend to not use it unless I'm on the track, and then only "because". I have not been able to tell any difference in either the steering or the engine perfomance, on or off.

 

EPA Defeat for the win!

I only use it at the track/autox and the occasional on-ramp.

I don't really find getting it in 1st any easier with or without the sport button engaged. With sport on and DSC off I can get a much more aggressive launch as the traction control nanny is not present.

I'm driving a three-peddled car and the throttle response is much faster and the fuel mapping is a bit more aggressive as well. There is a drop in steering boost which frees the motor to spin freely and gives a more direct steering feel (so you can REALLY feel that bumpsteer )



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Hmmm...... I only read one post that describes the interactions of an automatic with the sport button. Maybe I missed the others?

Bashing of a topic? Well, we do get off topic sometimes, but for the most part we try to help the OP concerning the issue at hand.

Keep in mine the feedback comes from personal experiences on the topic and it can be difficult for us to diagnose a particular problem from a distance.

 

I have a manual, I also have the sprint booster (set to race position) and I turn on the sport button. The throttle is MUCH more sensitive, requires very little movement to get revs up and I have no problem with it. It does take some getting use to, but no clutch issues that I am aware of.

Jim

 

No clutch is impervious to failure. Each failure has to be investigated on a case by case basis. I "think" why it appears to be wide spread has to do with communication tools. There certainly is a significant percentage of manufacturing defects mixed in with user abuse cases. A problem arises when damage has progressed to a state where fault can't accurately be determined.

I'm going to share what little I know about our dual-mass flywheel failures. This is the company that manufactures OEM MINI flywheels I've removed or installed GAT - Gesellschaft für Antriebstechnik mbH. The cross section picture on that page reveals a combination of elastomers and springs, the product description also mentions the use of lubrication on the elastomers. The design allows a small amount of rocking movement between the outer & inner masses, as well as rotational give, to reduce torsional shock. Here is information provided by Luk on their dual-mass flywheel, the failure and testing guide is relevant to our flywheels also http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedien/media/_shared_media/library/downloads/luk_fail_diag_zms_de_en.pdf. I've compared two new OEM flywheels side by side, and one had what I considered excessive secondary mass rock while in the box. Whether or not that rock would contribute to early failure I don't know, but I can predict the kit would rattle. Of the flywheels on failed dual-mass clutch kits I've removed, all had excessive rock. They also had excessive rotational movement, one moved so freely and far it must have been missing (perhaps disintegrated) internal parts. I can't help but speculate if the lube is worn off the elastomers, friction induced heat would accelerate their wear, thereby reducing mass, adding shock to the system, and contributing to a downward spiral toward failure. Surely the entire system wouldn't be dependant on a little lube, just sharing thoughts. Then there are the hot spots and warping; what came first, riding the clutch caused excessive heat, which caused warping & elastomer deterioration, or, elastomer failure combined with excessive tolerances, contributed to increased shock, slippage, heat, then warping?

Dual-mass flywheel failures are not confined to the MINI community, it is industry wide, but they do offer advantages over conventional flywheel/clutch kits for the street user. I like mine, I think it makes service life easier for my engine & transmission, plus I don't need to expend energy rev-matching much.

 

You are correct. I have a justa, but is there a difference in the clutch, throttle and sport button from a standing start?

Be that as it may, in your second post you said:

Why would there be more RPM with the sport button on? The pedal causes RPM to rise, this is a bit faster with the SB on, but is still controlled by the driver's foot.

Jim