My pedal has engaged less than a couple inches off the floor since day one, and the majority of R53s with OEM clutch I drive are the same. I'm going to try this method to see if it will change.
I understand the principle of allowing a pesky bubble to migrate upward, but there is a low slung section of fill pipe I don't see how a bubble could pass down through and enter the reservoir above without a push.
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Welcome to Motoring Alliance, thanks for joining.
We have an article in the Library: How to replace a clutch slave cylinder and bleed the clutch that you should find helpful.
YOu are not the only one that has found this to be a problematic task, that's for sure! -
Explain a little more about the mushy pedal feel for the first half of travel. If the clutch is disengaging more than an inch off the floor, all is good.
If disengaging with the pedal almost to the floor, then air is trapped in the master or slave cylinder. Removing air from the master requires a pressure bleeder and a jiggle (not compression) of the clutch pedal. Air in the slave can be removed with a gravity bleed while the slave is compressed, just be sure the bleeder valve is at the high point. -
Thanks for the responses!
I fixed it!! I was looking on another forum and someone mentioned that they had spoken with a mini mechanic and he told them to hold the clutch pedal in the compressed position overnight. So using a 2x4 I propped the clutch pedal overnight. The next day after i removed the 2x4 the clutch remained an inch off the floor. I then pumped it once and it returned to the top. The clutch was then much better than it was the day before. We drove the car around a little but the engagement point was still too close to the floor so I propped the clutch pedal overnight again. The following morning it felt better than its ever felt before and the engagement point is in the middle like it should be.
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No change, I also pressure bled the system afterward just in case.