Engine Drivetrain 2nd Gen S Most liked posts in thread: Clutch Issues Cooper S

I've seen a few R56 clutch failures at the same mileage, some can handle it, some can't, and some are doomed from the beginning due to a flywheel defect. Rather than fill the page with failure photos, many can be seen in my gallery.

For the daily driver that sees much stop & go use, the OEM clutch has the best behavior. At this time I'm only aware of one R56 aftermarket alternative, it is from OS Giken, and it is relatively costly. The OS disc has a durable friction material that can handle increased power output and high heat without glazing or warping. The downside is it can become grabby when hot, so not the best behavior if you depend on slipping the clutch much. There are three models to choose from for the R56, all come with a practically indestructible release bearing; some info can be found here. I'll be doing an install of a GTS model in an R56 over the next few days and will share some details later.

 

Consider an LSD or ATB differential installation while the gearbox is removed, and a smaller diameter Cooper front swaybar while the subframe is lowered.

 

Why a cooper swaybar?

 

To reduce understeer and inside wheel lift. Also, it is an OEM modification that usually will not cost points resulting in a classification change.

 

I have to say I am sorry the dealer is already spinning this position to setup a lack of support from MINI. I would press them firmly, yet politely, that a clutch should not go that fast. Remind them that the throw-out bearing is plastic and that there are known cases of a clutch going this early that has been covered.

That is unless you really want to change to an aftermarket unit. Then I'd pull the car from the dealer and take it to a local independent shop.

 

Yeah, I feel your pain there. Lucky for me they took care of it under warranty/service. Check my thread here: Clutch Issues