Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Clutch time..... Again

First one had to be changed because the throw out bearing was about to blow, the disk looked perfect. The current one well, as way said I've got the most mileage he's seen out of the comp clutch. Hopefully doing the valeo I can get over a 150k on it but we shall see, 100k I'll be happy lol.

 

So I am having an internal dilemma... perhaps you guys can help me. I decided I want to do a quaife while I'm replacing the clutch, I don't know if its the sticker shock, or the fact I probably shouldn't be dropping 1k on stuff I really don't need at the moment, but I'm having second thoughts on it. my question is does the quaife really make that much of a difference? I know in a track/autocross situation it does but I don't do either. All I ever do is tear up mountain roads. I would like to think someday I may track/autocross but in the near future I don't see it. In most circumstances I can shrug off my impromptu mods while fixing something broken, but pulling the trans is not exactly something quick and easy. I just want to know is it something I will have a wow moment with? or can I continue to live without it?

I also want to add, my past few times in the mountains/dragon I have been extremely happy with broknsmurfs performance.

 

I passed it up last time lol, If I can find a used OEM LSD I would consider it for sure.

 

I looked up the price of the ford differential (m-4204-svtf <--- thats the part# for those interested) Looks like going that way I can save about $200 going that way, I still need to contact eMINIparts about an oem LSD. The Ford part at most places is about the same price of the quaife, I found one site with it for $724, others have it at $850.

 

Picked up my parts today from way, gonna be doing the valeo kit and a quaife. I found a video for the quaife install on YouTube. They don't mention any torque specs for the bell housing bolts or the ring gear for the differential. Does anyone have any ideas on what those should be? I forgot to ask way about the bell housing bolts spec.

 

Just wanted to post an update.... Clutch and diff job has been done for a few days now. It took a lot longer than I wanted it too, I kept finding things I needed to address while I had broknsmurf apart, leaking cv boot, bad gaskets, broke the MAP tube. So after having to gather parts in the middle of the job 2 and a half days the job was done.

I believe I found the culprit as to why my clutch was slipping. The competition clutch uses a metal throw out bearing with a plastic base. Well this piece separated from the bearing. So my guess is the bearing was not retracting because the lever was no longer attached causing the pressure plate to remain slightly disengaged.

The valeo kit is taking some getting used to, I havent had a soft pedal in a long time so it almost feels non existent/effortless to push. Once I get some miles on it I will test out the quaife

 

I never thought something was wrong, I figured I just had to bleed it, I still haven't but after a day it started feeling normal to me. The engagement point is in a completely different place from the competition clutch, that still messes me up a little.