I have an OEM LSD also and it good but it is not as good as an OS Giken or Quaff LSD. I will upgrade my LSD when the stock clutch fails someday. AS for me I would not put the OBX in my car becasue most of the stuff they make is knock off junk. If you are going to put one in and need to do it on a budget get the OEM one from eMINIparts.com.
I don't have a LSD wish I did. When I do my clutch I'm hoping a LSD will be in the budget. I agree with DaveO don't get the OBX. I have OBX headers there ok but I sure wouldn't trust them for the LSD. Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. :smilewinkgrin: Sorry I typed LSD to many times!
How about that ford unit, they are supposed to fit and are much less expensive. In Top Gear magazine they highlighted the fact that the Focus SVT and the MCS share the same gearbox. Can this be confirmed?
They are the same..... There is a thread done by K-Huevo that goes into some detail on this switch...
MCS02, I believe what you are looking for is here http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/cooper-s/5621-todays-job.html#axzz2mmujxxEl starts at the bottom of page 2
I looked up the price of the ford differential (m-4204-svtf <--- thats the part# for those interested) Looks like going that way I can save about $200 going that way, I still need to contact eMINIparts about an oem LSD. The Ford part at most places is about the same price of the quaife, I found one site with it for $724, others have it at $850.
Picked up my parts today from way, gonna be doing the valeo kit and a quaife. I found a video for the quaife install on YouTube. They don't mention any torque specs for the bell housing bolts or the ring gear for the differential. Does anyone have any ideas on what those should be? I forgot to ask way about the bell housing bolts spec.
Just wanted to post an update.... Clutch and diff job has been done for a few days now. It took a lot longer than I wanted it too, I kept finding things I needed to address while I had broknsmurf apart, leaking cv boot, bad gaskets, broke the MAP tube. So after having to gather parts in the middle of the job 2 and a half days the job was done. I believe I found the culprit as to why my clutch was slipping. The competition clutch uses a metal throw out bearing with a plastic base. Well this piece separated from the bearing. So my guess is the bearing was not retracting because the lever was no longer attached causing the pressure plate to remain slightly disengaged. The valeo kit is taking some getting used to, I havent had a soft pedal in a long time so it almost feels non existent/effortless to push. Once I get some miles on it I will test out the quaife
Did you think there was something wrong the first time you pushed in the clutch after the change? I did, my heart sank thinking there was something wrong. Took me about a 3 weeks to get used to it. Then again, I sometimes go days between drives.
I never thought something was wrong, I figured I just had to bleed it, I still haven't but after a day it started feeling normal to me. The engagement point is in a completely different place from the competition clutch, that still messes me up a little.
Not wanting to start another clutch thread, I thought I would hijack this one and give my first impressions of converting to a Valeo Single Mass flywheel clutch it. If it's not okay, I will post this somewhere else. Some of you know, I had a new clutch put in last year. It was full stock replacement. However, I did not change out the dual mass flywheel. Well, 3 weeks ago, I heard a loud bang while shifting into 3rd on my commute home and I had no gears at all. Seems the clutch broke, and the dealer covered the cost of the labor to do another clutch. Based on the suggestions of all the good MINI folk here, I decided to not get another MINI clutch and had MINI Yaletown bring in a Valeo single-Mass flywheel conversion kit. With the customary discount they give me, the entire kit cost less than a replacement dual mass flywheel. This being the first time doing a conversion like this, they asked if they could take their time to make sure they get it right. It took almost 3 weeks. Finally got my car back. I haven't looked under the bonnet yet but supposedly, besides the clutch a whole bunch of gaskets have been replaced....$900 worth of gaskets. My first impressions: Extremely quiet. No more helicopter noises, and besides the supercharger whine, I can even hear the belt and a lot more of the mechanical things happening in the engine bay area now, including suspension movement. Much easier to diagnose problems. Very light pedal. Hardly any force to push the clutch pedal down at all. It might get stiffer as the clutch wears in, but for now, it feels too easy to push down and maybe a bit more difficult to modulate. The friction point is slightly higher and the pedal movement between friction point and full clutch engagement is wider. This clutch feels very much like the F56 Cooper's clutch I test drove a couple of weeks ago. I can feel the engine vibration/shakes more. Perhaps the dual mass flywheel from the factory was absorbing more of the vibrations coming from the engine. I'm glad I got the conversion. The conversion, including labor, costs less than the cost of a replacement dual mass flywheel part cost alone. With this being a simpler set-up, I anticipate fewer problems into the future. The trade-off is the clutch does not grab quite as hard as the stock set-up. But I don't anticipate driving my car hard enough for that to be an issue. Sorry for the double post. I had posted this here, then stumbled onto my original thread when I was debating whether or not to switch to a single mass flywheel.
Hi all. I blew my engine and will be installing a new clutch since pretty everything forward of the firewall is sitting on my garage floor. My car makes 244HP and will probably be making 250-255HP after the engine is rebuilt. Torque is about 192lb-ft. What is the highest horsepower /torque people have successfully put through a Valeo clutch kit so far? I've installed a few of these for people in the Seattle area and I really like how they feel. Just not sure if it can stand up to my higher powered engine, especially with what appears to be a smaller surface area friction disk. Thanks in advance, PS - I have a Quaife LSD and I love it. Definitely good for a couple seconds quicker lap times at the track. Pretty much eliminates understeer under acceleration.
My 05 MINI make 200 Tq and over 255 hp at the wheels and the stock clutch and OEM LSD is holding fine. The Stock stuff works just fine it all depends on how you drive it. **** I do drive my car very hard and I am still good at almost 80K.
Ok, I think I'll give the Valeo kit a try. I drive the car pretty hard including about a 8-9 track days a year but I do know how to correctly use a clutch
I've gone from a Clutch Masters 4 puck that was down right annoying on the street to an OS Giken that was like a weight machine for my left leg to a Valeo OEM replacement. The Valeo holds up to the HP and torque yet is easy to drive.
As Rolls Royce used to say "adequate". Frankly I have no idea, the car has not been on a dyno in years. Since then it's been bored over, the Jesus Head (tm) has been skimmed so compression is up and now has a ViPec that needs to be dialed in. It ain't a slow MINI, that's for sure.