R53 Most liked posts in thread: Codes for Misfire + EVAP leak, blinking SES

Thanks for the welcome. The screen name is from like.... 25+ years ago? Been using it ever since. I don't own a 911, but at the time the 993 911 was my kid dream car (I was so sad when they went water-cooled). And yes, California emissions. But who doesn't enjoy a good challenge!

 

Welcome to Motoring Alliance !!

 

Yes welcome to M/A.

I had an R53 but have forgotten most of what I knew. I'd put an ATI crank damper on there. Since you need one anyway at your mileage you might as well upgrade. Also if you haven't done so yet put a new set of spark plug wires on. You don't need anything fancy stock ones or NGK wires will do.

 

The crank damper usually goes sometime just over 60,000 miles, so if it is original I would bet it needs replaced. Like Chuck and Lee said, stock plug wires and stock coil. Good luck! You’ve got the best generation MINI.


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It’s never a bad thing to replace old old rubber/plastic lines no matter where they reside on a car.

 

Like Lee said get a Bentley manual. It will be money well spent. It's the MINI maintenance bible. I'm sure you can do this.

As far as adding lots of power, remember your MINI has a lot of miles on it. Not sure how much power you can add before your MINI says enough.

Detroit Tuned is a great place for parts & knowledge. FCP Euro is also a good place to buy parts.

I wouldn't drive the car until you fix it. If it drops that burned valve you will be looking for a new engine.

Pretty sure you & your son will enjoy this project. It's a great bonding opportunity.

 

As was previously stated a new crank damper and since we are spending your money an ATI damper would be a superb replacement.

 

New to the forum, but I've been digging through the Bentley Manual to track down the cause of my DTC P0456 and found that on page 13-77 in the Diagnostic section they discuss the Purge valve.

Essentially, the ECM has two tests it performs on the solenoid purge valve. If it fails the first (basically a rich/lean test) it tries a second (confirmes a swing in RPM). If it fails the second, then it throws its own code (Codes P0441, P0443, P0444, and P0445 all are related to the solenoid purge valve). So, if you are getting an evaporative emissions leak code all by itself, then the purge solenoid valve is likely not the culprit. Thought this might help others that are also tracking these trouble codes down.

Also, on page 160-15, they describe the LDP/DMTL (leak diagnostic pump) system, which is located behind the right rear wheel housing liner (you have to remove the wheel and the liner). The charcoal filter and the pump and some related hoses are located here and may be worth inspecting. Link: Here's some additional/interesting info on LDP/DMTL systems (they have specific discussions on BMW's method). Codes related to the LDP/DMPL are P1436 (software), P1437 (software), P1442 (low voltage), P1443 (high voltage), P1475 (reed switch + solenoid), P1476 (line clamped), and P1477 (reed switch).

Oh, and almost forgot to describe my journey through this. My '02 R53 was throwing the P0456 code and it was NOT clearing; It would immediately reappear. I replaced my gas cap gasket ($9 on amazon), it was cracked. This, however, did not change a thing. I did some looking around because the someone suggested to look at the vacuum lines around the airbox and sure enough I found cracks on a vacuum spur connection in the main intake "snorkel". I just want to pass smog for now, so I put some silicone sealant around it and replaced the band clamp and it changed from an active code to a pending code - which, as long as it holds on for the next 50-100 miles, will allow me to pass. I didn't chase down the end of this vacuum tube, when looking around some say it's a crankcase vent (looking at installation instructions for the K&N Typhoon 69-2021TP cold air intake), but it sure looks like it runs in the direction of the solenoid purge valve. I wonder if a leak in vacuum here causes the sensor to think there's a small leak.

Edit: I should note that the diagnostic test suggested does involve removing one end of the tube between the solenoid purge valve and the charcoal filter and performing a vacuum test and a smoke test. The vacuum test (should be 0.00" of vacuum) and the smoke test are both performed from the purge valve side of the tube.

Edit 2: the spur on the "snorkel" does go to the crank case vent. The other end of the tube leaving the top of the purge solenoid valve goes to a brass nipple on the throttle body.

 

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