Most liked posts in thread: Coilover Rebound Adjuster from Inside Boot

Ok so whoever takes on this project please take pictures of the process and make a parts list.

I am sure other KW owners would greatly appreciate the "how to".

 

Just about any reasonably length right angle 2mm allen wrench will work if you're going through the access panel doors--that's what I used to use. Once you drill a hole, the distance is shorter than you think.

I finally bit the bullet and made a hole in the rear plastic so I can get at the hole above the perch more directly, but you can do it through the access doors in the rear too, but it's blind, a little tight, and you have to do it by feel. I finally gave up on that and cut a hole directly where the perches are, it literally takes me two seconds now. My back seats are out permanently anyway, and I doubt my car will get anywhere near stock again in it's lifetime.

It's one of the things that irritates me greatly about the KW's--when I bought mine, they showed the adjustments on the bottom of the shock, not the top of the perch where they REALLY are. But they do function great, but a bottom adjustment like on the Bilstein's makes much more sense.

 

Not sure how the KW's are made at the top as far as the fitting but, my Megan Racing Coilovers came with the flexable extended adjustor shafts, that you slide thru "your" drilled hole to be able to make these adjustments from the boot area.. Might can just order a set from them "IF" they both have the same size allen fitting..

 

What really kills those threads is salt water corrosion that wicks in and starts the electrolysis between the aluminum and zinc plated steel bolt..... Then before you know it, the threads are starting to crumble which leads to the failure the next time they are removed.

When I replaced my springs, I cleaned the threads thoroughly and then added the "removable" Locktite. This was done to seal up the fit between the threaded hole and the triangular bolt, thereby preventing the ability of moisture entry....

Salt water is nasty stuff.....

 

I was thinking about the same thing a while back..... doing something along the lines of a flex shaft with a panel mount end and a simple bracket at the top with a thumb knob...

Easy squeezy.....

Go here...
McMaster-Carr

 

Had that on my AST's. Had to jack up the rear to make the adjustments but it did work.

 

And didn't the BC coilovers have the same adjuster?

 

Yeah. Came with mine. I just pitched them lol

Like in this pic. Just has a set screw or something that attaches them to the knobs on top then its a flexy cable that you run up through the panel wherever you like



I believe you can purchase these separately

example:
http://www.upscaleautomotive.com/bc-racing-br-series-coilover-rear-extenders-only

another...says Universal...
http://www.frsport.com/Stance-Adjustment-Knob-Extension-for-Coilovers_p_22618.html

 

^^^^ take some pictures if you can.

 

countryboyshane
That lower shock bolt is a self tapping design. MINI uses that style because the first time use it taps the hole. Do you think that it may be a good idea to change that bolt for a conventional style, in the appropriate grade, to lessen the chance of stripping the threads?
Steve

This is also the fourth time I've had that stupid triangular rear strut bolt out of the suspension that is notorious for stripping threads on the aluminum trailing arm equipped R56s. Thank God it tightened up to spec without the "Oh sh1t" feeling of stripping threads :biggrin5:[/QUOTE]

 

Sure is. A month or two ago I put new front leveling struts on the FJ and the thru-bolt was seized to the bushing collar in the bottom of the strut. The rubber was just breaking free and it would just turn in circles. It was the LAST bolt too... other side was out easy. Beat on it with sledge hammers and coated it in Penetrating Oil for 3 days.... In the end had to reassemble everything and drive it to the shop. $400 later I had that strut on :cryin:

 

A little late to this thread, I was on vacation...

I did a reference hole from below and then used a hole saw from above. No finished pictures, but I think I used a 2" or 2.25" hole saw. Also, it's very helpful to remove the rear interior panels so you can aim correctly and move the wires out of the way. I painted the hole with black spray paint to prevent any rust, too. I used some RTV to seal the upper strut mount to the body. BMW E36's use a gasket because the strut protrudes into the trunk, so I figured this would help.



On the driver's side, I remove the rear access panel and reach in with a long 2mm allen key. On the passenger side, I remove the HK amp (two 10mm bolts through the access panel, one Phillips #2 through the rear seat rubber pad with a long screwdriver). It's easy to remove the amp for a track weekend and replace it afterwards. The allen key takes a little practice, but it works.

Post up if you figure out a solution. Remote access would be a huge time saver!