The easier way is an external bypass resistor. The easiest of all is run a tap directly between the high and low speed lines (the low speed fan will run at high speed).
As I mentioned earlier, the dead simple quick fix (takes only a few minutes) is install two taps and simply run a wire between them. When low speed is supposed to run, it will actually spin at high speed (noisier, but cooler is better, right?). Add the resistor to run like factory setup.
I always solder all my connections. It has become a habit from when I installed car alarms and remote starters. I would not have comeback failures because some cheap connector failed.
All soldered connections equal the piece of mind that every splice has been made correctly and will not fail from any weather condition or vibration.
I do it once and do it right because I hate troubleshooting electrical problems.
wow this really picked up, changing the whole fan assembly was kind of a pain it was not my MINI so I just did what my friend wanted. She wanted to fix it rather than band aid it, her call not mine. I ended up removing the whole radiator assembly. probably more than I needed to do but I discovered she had a leaking crank sensor while I was in there so that got fixed as well. I also found out that she had almost 100% water in her system rather than coolant this winter would have really sucked for her if I didn't find that. I also had to replace the belt tensioner and install a reduction pulley (Have I mentioned im a good friend?)
The job took a lot longer than I wanted it to but now shes running great. I was supposed to do an oil change and replace my fuel filter this weekend as well, but after spending what felt like forever on hers I am pushing it off till next weekend. I now know why I am not a mechanic, my car would be a bucket if I was.
I did not use T-taps because they all fail over time and are not waterproof.
They should not be used for connection outside in vehicles that will see all weather conditions. ( cold, rain, snow, ice) A little bit of water will freeze in T-tap and pop it open and cause it to fail. You won't notice it when it's 20 degrees out but you sure will overheat when Spring comes around.
Cut, soldier and seal with M3 scotch 33+ electrical tape.
Kinda wished I'd found this thread before buying a fan relay kit from DT, but like jeffster06 I gotta deal with a seeping crank sensor seal. Looks like service mode for me anyway.
How long did it take you to replace the fan? I'm looking at the DT low fan resistor that Chad sells and trying to make the decision whether to do it myself or have it done.
I did this prior to DT selling a kit. Pretty easy once I was able to find the parts. No service mode on mine. Was still working fine when I sold the car to purchase Silverback
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