The first rally for the 2004 R50 went well but I had to run with the heater on due to the coolant was filling up the expansion tank(never went over Max). The cooling system is stock with the "S" oil heat exchanger and some plumbing to make it work. I was thinking of trying water wetter as that seemed to work well with the Swift. Pump and cap is new but radiator is the original 130,000 Any suggestions welcome as long as I'm using stock stuff.
Can you wire the fan to run off a switch so it can be on all the time? Maybe a second fan? Have you back flushed the rad Chris? Lots of stuff can accumulate in 130,000 miles.
I can run only stock stuff. I did have a STI 4 core radiator to start with but they would not let me use it. Boo hooo The fan runs with a manual switch and runs all through the stages.....I'm thinking to get a new radiator and have this one as a get me home.
I did that because I had a issue where the fan shorting out. So I have directly wired to a switch. I prefer a manual switch just incase I have to run through deep water.
I'd guess it is a 2 row. Does the rad for a CVT MINI have additional cooling capacity? Maybe our favorite parts man can fill us in. Hey Steven.
The Cooper and S show different part #'s for the Radiator for a 1st Gen MINI. The price is the same. what differences there may be between the Justa and S radiator I have no idea. The CVT versions add a Transmission Oil Cooler that is in front of the radiator. People have used these as Oil Coolers on S models.
They are both a 1 row......Try bypassing the A/C , and put it on high so the fan will kick on at high all the time..??...Is there a cooler thermostat you can run?...That will open at a lower temps?
Since I don't think you are going to get Snow down you way anytime soon how about no antifreeze coolant and just run water with water wetter.....
I already have the fan on high and could put the F150 thermostat back in. Yeap i don't need anti freeze down there. I'm going to fit water and water wetter, drop in the F150 thermostat and most likely drop in a good quality new radiator
Hi Guys -- I too am looking for instructions on how to wire an override switch for the radiator fan. I have an '13 MCS and park it in a garage. I basically want to run the fan the last 2 miles home to maximize the post 3-5 minute engine-off cool down process for the turbo. The bonnet can get as hot 200F as there is no air movement once parked in the garage. I want to avoid any fire hazard as well maximize the life of those hot components that continue to bake under the bonnet after shutdown. Is it safe to just splice the override 12V wire directly into the highspeed wire between the control unit and radiator fan? Or do I need to have a relay open the circuit for the low speed wire when I'm overriding the fan? Any insights are appreciated. :wink: Thanks, Jinx
When I got my MC the fan was running on high all the time. So I found the power wire into the fan, cut it and ran the same gauge extra wire to a switch on the dash. Then after months of working fine I got a strange electrical fault that was related to the fan return wire. The wipers ran slow, some lights cam e on so I just grounded the return wire to the chassis which cured the problem. So in your case you want to retain the original thermostat control but need to have the fan run a few minutes after the engine is switched off? Something like this? Technical Articles
I've just bought a New Ebay radiator for $60 seems to be a ton of them on Ebay which all look like the same radiator at various prices. Most likely it'll last a year or so but at least I'll have the old one for a back up.