Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Correct Brake Bleeder Valve Length? (speed bleeder)

Discussion in 'Tuning and Performance' started by fishmonger, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

    May 13, 2015
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    It was easy to find the bleeder thread size for the Mini - M10x1.0 - however, there are two lengths of bleeder valves available in that thread size.

    Anyone know which one to get for the stock R53 brakes?

    the short one is 1.23" (31.35mm)
    the longer one is 1.35" (34.44mm)

    Speed Bleeder Sizes

    I don't really want to take out a valve just to measure it, but I guess that's the next best thing to do. I've done the google thing several times with all types of keywords to get to an answer, but I can't find a part number and the Russell web site is useless to ID it by car.

    I know I can just order whatever some not to be named shop sells, but then I am a cheap bastard and don't want to spend $75 for four valves when I can get them for less than $50 once I know the Russell part number.
     
  2. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    FWIW I have speed-bleeders on my Miata. Save your money, wish I'd saved mine. They will work fine 1 or 2 times & then you will curse them. If you do buy them buy a bottle of the thread seal, without it you are screwed once they start leaking.
     
  3. jasonsmf

    jasonsmf Active Member

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    I use the Speedbleeder SB1010S-SS (stainless) M10 x 1.0 x 31.35 on my R53, they seem to work just fine for me.

    I originally tried the Russell ones, the conical taper seemed to be off - they wouldn't seal no matter how tight they were.

    Jason
     
  4. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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  5. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    how is that different from any other bleeder? You are "screwed" when any of them start leaking.

    I have wobbly valves in there right now that will suck in huge air bubbles from the threads. At least with the speed bleeder, once properly thread sealed, I can do this job by myself.

    Have them on the dark silver Mini and they work great. Stock bleeders on red Mini have so far cost me an extra 2 liters of ATE 200 fluid and the brakes are still soft.
     
  6. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    good to know. Russell doesn't list Mini as a supported car in their application list, so I guess that is correct.
     
  7. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    that's too easy :Thumbsup:
     
  8. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Never had an oem bleeder leak? I'd bet your red car needs the abs pump run to properly bleed the brakes. I'd guess there is some air in there.
     
  9. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    "Congratulations! Your order is in! We'll get your MINI goodies out to you ASAP."

    Pulled the trigger on the DDMWorks intake while I was there - miss the sound of my super charger after my son swapped my intake with his stock intake one night I wasn't around to keep an eye on what he was doing in the garage... but he argued that due to my strut bar, the intake I had in there wasn't sealing.

    Anyway, bleeders are probably not needed if I have help in he garage, and I do have a Motive power bleeder, so it's probably completely unnecessary. I just like them on the other car, and to keep things the same across cars, why not spend more money on the Mini?

    It's spring and so far I've only spend about $1000 on both cars - gotta kick it up up to meet my annual quota
     
  10. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Could be, but it's the last thing I'll do (go to the dealership). I've bled the other car without any issue and haven't done anything different this time, other than swap hoses and introduce more air down the line. It's possible these bubbles went up and into the wrong place, but then I don't think that's necessarily the case. Just about all ABS pump dump valves are closed when the vehicle is not actively braking in ABS mode or hooked up to the service tool that forces them open. Usually the procedure to bleed the ABS pump is only used when the pump itself is exchanged.

    When bleeding, my fluid reservoir never went dry, engine never powered up during bleeding, meaning all ABS valves are shut. nothing will go in and out. I think I have air in the lines, right in the calipers, primarily in the rear where every time I open the valves, I have huge bubbles coming out of the bleeder tube. Wiggle on valve stem and that air flow changes. That's 1/4 turn opened. Probably something where I could just pull the valve and put some plumbers Teflon tape on the threads. If it wasn't eating up so much expensive fluid, I'd do that next, but I figure if I am pulling the bleeder valves, just put in speed bleeders.

    We'll get those brakes sorted eventually. Did my Tundra last summer and had the hardest time with unexpected rear backing plate rubbing issues and seized calipers, but zero issues bleeding that system, with ABS and massive calipers.
     
  11. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Best of luck hope you get it sorted without a trip to the dealers shop.
     
  12. BlimeyCabrio

    BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIs
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    My Minis have always had wobbly bleeders that let air in around the threads, during bleeding. But it hasn't kept me from being able to bleed properly. I just slowly tighten them at the end of the bleed cycle (using a Motive power bleeder) and they stop leaking before they close completely and all the air comes out. If you have spongy brakes, I'd wager it's NOT air in the calipers introduced through the bleeders.
     
  13. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    installed the new bleeder valves and properly pressure bled the system this weekend - all is good now. The only air that came out was right at the bleeder, after that I saw only a half dozen tiny air bubbles in the rear, none in the front. Still made a huge difference in how the brakes feel.

    Building a home-made bleeder attachment that fits the Mini reservoir and doesn't leak while not costing $40 like the brand name part was the biggest effort in this project.
     
  14. 00Mini

    00Mini Well-Known Member

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    Good to hear that in the end everything worked out well for you.
     
  15. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    Now I have a second Mini to bleed - after a complete rear brake overhaul. Rotors, caliper rebuild (removing those parking cables is going to be the part I dread the most), stainless lines in back, all back together. I decided on Akebono pads for the rears, leaving the front Wilwoods alone for now unless the rotors measure closer to end of life than new, then I will have to spend even more money. Ah, only the best for a car I have driven less than 2000 miles in the last 12 months...
     
  16. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    Watch the speed bleeders, they do not last a lifetime, they will eventually fail. Not a fan of them at all for a number of reasons, keep a close eye on them.

    Most of the guys that I know who have tracked their cars that have tried them have ended up ditching them.
     
  17. jasonsmf

    jasonsmf Active Member

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    I'm curious what fails on them?

    Jason

     
  18. fishmonger

    fishmonger Well-Known Member

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    I can always put in the original plug screws should there be a problem, now that I have a functional pressure bleeder attachment for the car. The problems I had initially all had to do with the pedal pumping method we had to resort to because the generic attachment to the brake reservoir kept losing pressure.

    My gray Mini has had speedbleeders installed for 6 or more years and they got used a lot by the previous owner who did some Autotcross. Still working fine, rock solid pedal, no leaks. Will be bleeding that car in a few days after doing the rear brakes this weekend.

    Not sure what would fail other than the check valve not working when you do need them for a one person bleed job, though. They won't leak when tightened down like any other bleeder valve, as the cone shaped bottom seals the system below the fragile check valve mechanism.
     
  19. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    Six years is lucky. Eventually they'll leak and/or suck air in. Too many track rats have had too many problems with them--keep an eye on them, I wouldn't use them personally--I'd rather use a motive pressure bleeder.
     

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