Engine Drivetrain 1st Gen Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Crank Pulley Replacement - Discussion Thread

I'd sure recommend changing the crank seal. You are there looking at it now & it's not expensive. If it leaks down the road you are not going to be a happy camper. Just my .02.

 

I did the crank pulley replacement also (I went with the ATI), I did the install a little different though:

#1 - Buy Part
#2 - Wait for it to be Delv
#3 - Take Car and Part to Ian @ Maitland Importers
#4 - Pay Ian
#5 - Drive home knowing that I do not have to worry about the stock pulley blowing up!

I know a smart a$$ answer, but really it was not an expensive change out, the part is a little expensive but you can see that its a well built part.

 

Here is what mine looked like on a 2002 Cooper before the seal was replaced..

 

Sure sounds like the reason it was not coming off was because the center bolt was pushing against the pulley. When you fix that issue by pushing against a partially threaded in crank bolt the pulley should come off pretty easy.
Since you will not need so much force on the three small bolts you might be able to clean up the threads with a tap of the same size as the current bolt/hole.

 

Heated it, pounded with a block of wood and hammer, and EUREKA it's on!!

THANKS EVERYBODY

 

Ok....so after a month and a half I finally got all the parts assembled and started the pulley replacement project. I went with the ATI unit, I also decided to replace the idler pulley, belt tensioner and upper engine mount as well.
Last night I removed the pulley.....I ended up purchasing an impact wrench along with a few other tools to make the work go a little easier. I should have bought a bigger air compressor too but.......
The pulley was in two pieces as the rubber center had completely failed. There are marks on the side of the case where the pulley was coming into contact. The oil seal appears to be in good shape as it doesn't show any signs of leaking. (Don't fix what ain't broke).
Tomorrow I am going to finish taking off the upper mount and belt tensioner. Then it's time to "Cook" the pulley.

 

Wimps.

That being said, I'd do the exact same thing if they were close enough to me...I have to do this soon.

 

Thanks for posting the DIY. I decided to tackle this while on vacation this week. Purely a preventative measure.

I used a harbor freight puller kit and some 6mm class 10.9 bolts and some washers sourced from menards. Worked like a charm. Had a bit of interference between the puller tool and the car chassis, but that would have been resolved by using some longer bolts. I used the longest I could find (75 mm IIRC) and made it work. Heated the new pulley in the oven on 250 for about ten minutes and it went on with ease.

One less thing to worry about blowing apart now.

 

Nice job

I see Way is sticking his name on a part that is clearly made by ATI. :rolleyes5:















Walmart Motor Works

 

Did you use a ATI ?

 

Article is now published.

Can be found HERE

Thanks to agranger for yet another great How To item.

 

Nice article, Aaron.

 

^^^^^^^^

What he said!

 

I don't have a R53, but I still enjoyed your DIY instructions. Nice work on your write-up...

 

Excellent job as usual :cornut:

 

Thanks for posting the How To. The crank pulley is the next job for my GP.

 

And another one to add to my library!