1st Gen "How To" Replacing The Crank Pulley

One thought before you mess up the threads on the broken bolt is if there are enough threads exposed, such as three, maybe you can thread a coupler onto the bolt and then thread another bolt into the coupler to give the puller something to grab onto. The hard part would be finding a metric thread coupler at a local hardware store.
Here is a link to what I am thinking of:
McMaster-Carr

Another thought would be to drill the broken bolt, tap threads into the bolt and screw in a small screw that at least the puller can pull on. But you can not drill the hole too large or it will probably rip up the broken bolt. Might work if the pulley is not too stuck on the shaft.

I do not think that using the puller on just two bolt will work but if all else fails it might be worth a try.

 

Got it out with a set of vice grips. Phew!

Going to the hardware store tomorrow to get better hardware.

 

Great. Glad you got the bolt out the easy way.
New hardware sounds like a great idea.

 

Also popping puller bolts

This my second day trying to remove the crank pulley from my '03 S. Now the bolts screwed into the crank for the puller use are starting to pop out. I keep tightening them, but after a couple more turns on the puller, one pops out. The threads on the bolt look OK, but I fear the threads in the pulley are stripping. Any suggestions on getting this sucker out?

BTW agranger, the removal thread was excellent.

Thanks.

 

A couple thoughts.
First I have a dumb question/thought but is your configuration correct to pull the pulley off? I ask because I have read where others have made a mistake trying to pull the pulley off. Make sure you are not pushing against the pulley with the center puller bolt at the same time trying to pull with the three small bolts. The center bolt needs to push against something other than the pulley such as a partially unthreaded crank bolt. If using a partially unthreaded crank bolt to push against you need to make sure the pulley has not moved enough to be hitting the crank bolt, if so you need to unthread the crank bolt a little more.

Second dumb question. Are you using the correct diameter and pitch bolts to go into the holes? Maybe you have a slightly different diameter or pitch bolt that seems to thread into the hole but is really not.

If you really have stripped out the threads in the crank pulley the hole, you might need to rethread the hole with a slightly larger size thread or at least different thread pitch. The new threads could even be standard threads instead of metric because it is probably easier to find a standard tap. Just make sure you get a new bolt the same diameter/pitch as what you tap the hole.

 

With me there are no dumb questions.

I'm not using an unthreaded crank bolt, just the tapered end of the pulling tool. If I understand you correctly, I need to insert the crank bolt, but not all the way. I then put the tapered end of the pulling tool on the crank bolt and go at it again?

Yep, I'm using the correct diameter bolts. I have a lot of pressure before they pop.

I may have to rethread at least 1 thread after this latest pop.

I'm off to try the bolt.

THANKS

 

Sure sounds like the reason it was not coming off was because the center bolt was pushing against the pulley. When you fix that issue by pushing against a partially threaded in crank bolt the pulley should come off pretty easy.
Since you will not need so much force on the three small bolts you might be able to clean up the threads with a tap of the same size as the current bolt/hole.

 

You're sure right about the pressure, quikmni. Using the bolt did the trick, but I still needed to re-thread one hole. However, I now have no more threads on the bolt and the pulley is not quite out. Do I get a longer bolt or can I pry the pulley off?

 

My ATI replacement pulley came with a longer bolt so I used that bolt. Did your replacement pulley come with another bolt? Otherwise you might be able to gently pry the pulley off. You might be able to use the puller to pry on and wiggle the pulley off.

 

I went with the Mini pulley, so didn't get a longer bolt. However, I have a longer bolt, but a smaller thread. I'll try that.

For the replacement, if it doesn't go on I guess I will heat it like everyone has mentioned for the ATI pulley. Now I wish I would have waited and gotten it. Oh well.

 

Heated it, pounded with a block of wood and hammer, and EUREKA it's on!!

THANKS EVERYBODY

 

All right ! Glad you finally got the pulley off and the new one installed.

 

After seeing some so-so install notes on other sites, I found your how-to incredible! Great job, it helped me very much!! http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin5.gif

Kevin
Muscle Shoals, AL

 

Ok....so after a month and a half I finally got all the parts assembled and started the pulley replacement project. I went with the ATI unit, I also decided to replace the idler pulley, belt tensioner and upper engine mount as well.
Last night I removed the pulley.....I ended up purchasing an impact wrench along with a few other tools to make the work go a little easier. I should have bought a bigger air compressor too but.......
The pulley was in two pieces as the rubber center had completely failed. There are marks on the side of the case where the pulley was coming into contact. The oil seal appears to be in good shape as it doesn't show any signs of leaking. (Don't fix what ain't broke).
Tomorrow I am going to finish taking off the upper mount and belt tensioner. Then it's time to "Cook" the pulley.

 

I'd sure recommend changing the crank seal. You are there looking at it now & it's not expensive. If it leaks down the road you are not going to be a happy camper. Just my .02.

 

OK...So far I have finished with installing the new crank seal, (A lot easier to remove and replace then I imagined)
The new belt tensioner (the old one was a lot harder to remove then I imagined due to close clearances and 1 bolt that was almost impossible to get to even after taking off the upper engine mount)
The TSW upper engine mount is in (I had practice doing that job when I replaced the upper mount on my daughter's R50).
And the new idler pulley is in, (the old one was failing).
So now I am waiting on a new bolt to replace the one I mangled from removing the belt tensioner. :mad2:
Then it's time for the MAIN EVENT!! Cooking the new crank pulley and installing it.

Never said I was a mechanic, but I am having a lot of fun..

 

I did the crank pulley replacement also (I went with the ATI), I did the install a little different though:

#1 - Buy Part
#2 - Wait for it to be Delv
#3 - Take Car and Part to Ian @ Maitland Importers
#4 - Pay Ian
#5 - Drive home knowing that I do not have to worry about the stock pulley blowing up!

I know a smart a$$ answer, but really it was not an expensive change out, the part is a little expensive but you can see that its a well built part.

 

I did the same with my install but I took mine to Eric at Helix.