Most liked posts in thread: Dave.0’s Detailing

FYI- was only last about 3 weeks on car paint and it captures dirt and block U.V. that’s about it.
Sealant is just a thin synthetic wax like product that does the same thing but lasts much longer but still captures diary.

Coatings are different as they chemically bond to the paint much better without oil or silicones as bases,. They provide better U.V. protection for far longer. Also dirt and fallout just sits on top of them until washed / risked away with soap and water.

The days of waxes and sealants are numbered as prices keep falling for real Ceramic and Carbon bases coatings. As you can see old wax company’s like Meguiars is releasing spray already with SiO2 bases in them. (Marketing BS)

It’s just like the LP record, 8 track, cassette, CD and now MP3.
* The only exception for me musically is Analog Vinyl sounds much better.

 

Just so you know that details starting cost is 10 grand. Yes, 10 thousand dollars.




It’s funny that we both use all the same tools and return the same results. I would love to have a shop like that and do one car with four people for a week. The problem is I want to do all the work myself because I am that OCD. The lift is a nice tool I don’t have, but would absolutely have in my own shop. Problem is my real job allows me to work from home and pays so damn well.

As for the Modesto coating he uses, I disagree with it being the best on the market. Maybe a few years ago, but not now. They did a great job on a car with only 500 miles to preserve it.

This is great example of what “Detailing” is. It’s not the just at the end of the local car wash tunnel that drys your car with a Cotten towel, sprays on some tire dressing and pulls your car under tent and zips on a quick layer of wax for 39.99 or more.

Really cleaning, polishing and protecting is detailing.

 

Yesterday MDX. Still in the garage baking until the rain and drizzle goes away today and the owner comes and picks it up. Better pictures coming after I pull it outside.

The closeup shows where the car had major scratches from the dealership removing vinyl with plastic razor blades.

 

Ok here is the MDX outside.

 

Next weeks project, the GP.
FYI - it’s has lower HP and is slower than the Mistress but I like it.

 

Well the 2006 original GP is starting to look a lot better.
I washed and clayed the car last Saturday. I did a lot of old dried wax removal all around the whole car.
Next all the windows were steel wooled with 0000 grade. I removed all non OEM stickers and license plate. Finally I got started on the paint late Sunday. I started cutting the paint with Sonax Max Cut on my Rupes with Meguiars MF cutting pads. I ended up cutting the entire car starting with the roof and working around and down too the very bottom. Every part that has paint on this car has been cut and polished. I used 10 MF cutting pads.

I spent the next two days polishing out the fine scratches from cutting the paint with the same machine with Sonax Perfect Finish with a Rupes yellow pad. I used about 12 Yellow Pads.

The next step was coating with Gyeon MOHS and Prime. I applied 1 coat of MOHS to the roof and hood. Then the next day I applied 2 coats of Gyeon Prime on the entire car.

Today the wheels will be coming off so the can be coated with Gyeon RIM and the trim on the car will be coats with Gyeon Trim.

Thats all the updates for today, pictures below.

 

It’s good stuff, use two coats and it will shine and been super slick. Also, no rubbing hard to remove it. It wipes off like pollen.

 

Last weekends detail......

 

More

 

Post your pictures when you have time on the chips. The best way I fix them is clean the wax and oil out of it with a Q-tip dipped in acitone. Then fill the chips with touch up paint by adding just a little every few days.

After a couple of days I wet sand down the filled in chip and polish it back to new like it never happened.

Now people have used Dr. Colorchip or Lanka system with good-ish results for amateurs meaning you will not see the chip from a few feet away. If you want it gone like it never happen you use my method.

As for “Clear Bras” or Paint Protection Film (PPF) it all depends on how the car is stored and maintained. If car sits inside and is not out in the sun exposed to UV and salt and stuff they will last. Good 3,5,8 years.

If the car sits out side all the time and the film is not maintained with proper Ph washing soap and a maintenance coating it may only last a year in Florida, South Texas, and Southern California. PPF is just like OEM vinyl stripes but thicker and need to be maintained and protected.