I know that water in the proper amount injected into the combustion chamber will clean carbon out, but why would it work say on a intake valve, which is not "in" the combustion chamber and not subjected to as much heat, since it's cooled by contact with the seat and stem?
I also wonder about this whole carbon-on-the-backs-of-the-valves deal, and why some have it so badly and others not at all?
Could it be down to city driving vs hi-speed - ie: getting the valves hot enough to burn it off?
Could my track time be beneficial in ways I hadn't realized yet?
To answer your question, I don't think injecting washer fluid would be a good idea, but if you had distilled water in the tank - that might be different.
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Yeah.....
That was just a "I Wonder" moment.
Meth kicks in at a preset point, upper RPM's..... And if you have meth, you probably don't have a carbon problem.
My thoughts are to use the existing washer reservoir. And only use it to remove the carbon at low RPM's. Kind of like steam clean the carbon deposits off the backs of the intake valves. A simple controlled rate so you don't get hydrolock. Basically eliminating all the goofy, pulling the PCV hose off, measuring out a prescribed quantity of liquid, and timing the introduction of the cleaner into the intake. You just flip a switch and run it for a given time, once a month. Easy Squeezy...
Hah, you might even be able to do a quick clean while sitting at a stop light????
Hah, I can see it now.... That jerk behind you in that huge " insert make". You decide to do a carbon "Purge" all over the front of his grill.... No never mind, I was starting to drift.
Sent from Arrakis, while harvesting spice, using Tapatalk when no one was looking. -
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You will need more than just a simple purge every now and then to reduce and finally keep your intake valves from excess carbon build up.
The best way would be to install a water/meth injection kit, like the Aquamist HFS3, and run it continuously to remove said excess carbon build up, then once your happy with your results, visual inspection, then you can reduce the running of your water/meth kit, to activate with fuel demand or boost demand.
It really does work, I run 2 Aquamist HFS3 water/meth injection kits, and I have no problems with excess carbon build up, that said my No1 kit does run continuously from the moment I start my engine to the moment I switch it off.
One of the reasons some suffer from excess carbon build up more than others, is that the early cam covers up to 11/2008 suffered from a poor design of the PCV, the later cam covers from this date on have a better PCV design, and the later models tend not to suffer quite as much.
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If your talking about the N18 engine and not the N14, then yes the cam cover is different, and it only has 1 vent into the air stream, and this is pre turbo, see picture of the new N18 engine below.
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