Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: DIY Stud Conversion Install/Review - R56

  1. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    #13 agranger, Jan 14, 2013
    I saw the thread title and immediately thought of this:

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    #2 Jason Montague, Jan 13, 2013
    :cornut: Your 1st post and it's a how to post with photos. We all welcome you to MA and thank you very much. You're a Gentleman and Scholar Sir and there are damn few of us left.:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  3. iorillosa

    iorillosa New Member

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    #4 iorillosa, Jan 13, 2013
    Thanks for the love! I'm hoping to be an active member as time passes :biggrin5:
     
  4. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #9 Metalman, Jan 14, 2013
    I agree with you Dave on the anti seize on the studs... Torque readings for lug bolts are published as dry (no lubricant).. However there are conversion charts for "lubed"...

    Not sure about the concern on the temperature for the blue loctite...
    Am thinking the wheel itself is a huge heatsink... If the temperature is high enough to the point where it affects the locktite then the grease in the hub may also be at risk...
    But others may chime in with what stud temperatures get to on track days...
    Here in our shop we do apply torch heat in order to deal with locktite fastener removal....
     
  5. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    #14 Minidave, Jan 14, 2013
    My understanding was that it took about 300* to get red locktite to release.....and I'd expect the discs to get well over that, especially on track....that was my thinking anyway.
     
  6. th3band1t

    th3band1t New Member

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    #3 th3band1t, Jan 13, 2013
    Why did you go the 14x1.x to 14x1.x and not the 14 to 12?
     
  7. iorillosa

    iorillosa New Member

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    #5 iorillosa, Jan 13, 2013
    I considered going with the 14 to 12 but I ran the Motorsport Hardware stud conversion on my e92 3 series and I can stand by their products. I decided to go with confidence in the product rather than more lug nut selections haha :arf:
     
  8. rum4

    rum4 Club Coordinator
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    #6 rum4, Jan 14, 2013
    Welcome to m/a. Thanks for the DIY, nice first post!
     
  9. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    #7 Crashton, Jan 14, 2013
    Welcome to the wonderful world of M/A

    Great DIY!!!
     
  10. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    #8 Minidave, Jan 14, 2013
    I'm surprised that blue locktite will hold given the temps the brakes get to on track days.....

    Also, copper anti-sieze on the threads? I was always taught that was a no-no, because you couldn't get accurate torque values with it, and if you torque to spec you'll be over-torquing the nuts.

    There are a lot of good reasons to run studs, I wonder why the German mfrs all choose bolts instead?
     
  11. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    #10 BThayer23, Jan 14, 2013
    Why blue loctite instead of red? Most manufacturers recommend the permanent stuff.

    Also, I would recommend cleaning the holes with brake cleaner before you thread in the studs. The loctite works best if the surfaces are perfectly clean and dry. I would also recommend applying the thread locker and threading them in, out, and in again to be sure the fluid is evenly applied.

    I took these steps and I've been using an impact wrench to take the nuts off without any problems.
     
  12. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    #11 BThayer23, Jan 14, 2013
    Studs get too hot to touch, and yes, wheel bearings wear out much faster on a track car.
     
  13. Norm03s

    Norm03s New Member

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    #12 Norm03s, Jan 14, 2013
    I used blue loctite on my studs and copper anti seize too, torque mine to 85ft/pd, never any issues in 9 years. Had those wheels so hot, had to use gloves to handle them. I use anti seize on all my vehicles lug studs, no issues ever.
     
  14. iorillosa

    iorillosa New Member

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    #15 iorillosa, Jan 15, 2013
    As far as the blue loctite though it really is just an extra safety precaution to ensure that the studs won't back out. In European racing sanctions, they don't even require any sort of loctite neither blue or red. In my own personal opinion and experience, blue is more than enough. I've used blue loctite on several stud conversions in the past and have had no issues with occasional auto x/amateur track days and having the stud back out. In addition, red loctite would need to be heated up just to remove/change the studs which is overkill in my opinion. But then again it is just my opinion. Hopefully some other members can chime in :Thumbsup:
     
  15. iorillosa

    iorillosa New Member

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    #16 iorillosa, Jan 15, 2013
    I've been getting quite a few PM's in regards to interest in the stud conversions from motrosport hardware. Maybe if we get a few more interested motorists I can talk to Ryan and maybe set up a group buy :wink:
     
  16. iorillosa

    iorillosa New Member

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    #17 iorillosa, Jan 15, 2013
    As far as the copper antiseize I'll have to look into the torque values specific for this. Thanks for the info!
     
  17. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    #18 agranger, Jan 22, 2013
    Manufacturers probably choose bolts as it is one less thing to have sticking out of the side of the car, snagging parts and people as the car runs along the assembly line. It also adds one more part and step to the assembly process

    Studs: 1) install studs, 2) mount tire, 3) install nuts
    Bolts: 1) mount tire, 2) install bolts
     
  18. iorillosa

    iorillosa New Member

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    #19 iorillosa, Feb 24, 2013