1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Dynod Broknsmurf today and now he's broken :-(

  1. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #4 Dave.0, Jun 11, 2015
    Those are stock numbers and the early ones are even lower than stock.

    With a 15% pulley you should be making more than that.

    I would rip off the screaming deamon coil and put OEM coil, wires and fresh plugs in the car.

    Next check your belt tensioner because if your belt slips you loose boost. With a 15% philly you should have a gates 535 belt and see at least a full hole in the tensioner.

    Also make sure you OEM rubber IC boot clamps are tight with no leaks. If you have silicone IC boots get rid of them they leak and you loose boost.

    A fresh oil change would not hurt either.

    Remember when you go to a Dyno you want you car in tip top shape because you are going to push it and push it hard. If you don't you are just wasting money and Dyno time.
     
  2. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

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    #10 ZippyNH, Jun 11, 2015
    With a header and no cat, I would expect closer to 200whp..heck did that with the STOCK exaust on a 100°f day, hotter in the dyno room(did have JCW 380's, but was 180 who untuned)...that was with a custom RMW tune, not a canned tune, but anything less than 180 would make me wonder...
    Dynojets typically seem to read high....
    Did you have a blower on the IC to simulate driving airflow?
    Maybe low voltage caused ecu issues?
     
  3. CHKMINI

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    #17 CHKMINI, Jun 12, 2015
    Just the possibility that it will fry the ECU. It happened to me when I had my '04 R53. The reference to red was just a play on words for any aftermarket coil..
     
  4. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #20 jeffster06, Jun 12, 2015
    Next time I will have them keep a fan on the intercooler, I checked my belt this morning before leaving work, the indicator is just now covering the top hole, the bottom portion by like a 16th (maybe its older than im remembering). I would watch the belt tensioner on the dyno but this place actually has you run your own car on it I suppose I could ask them to do a pull next time and watch the tensioner.

    I already have a header installed and a cam to put on, this was a pull to get a pre cam number, from the sounds of it the numbers are botched and won't give much of a power gained indicator if I fix multiple things before going back. I do plan on getting injectors and a tune soon, was told I can run the cam without those items figure I will build up to it. needing a new alternator kinda set back those plans a bit.

    I think I may have been beat up enough about the coil pack I may swap my OEM one back in and just clean terminal #3, I was never having problems out of it before, at least the plugs and wires will be fresh. :Thumbsup:
     
  5. Nathan

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    #2 Nathan, Jun 11, 2015
    What brand of Dyno?

    Then again, it is hard to compare across dyno types.
     
  6. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #3 jeffster06, Jun 11, 2015
    My bad forgot that detail. Dynojet
     
  7. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #5 jeffster06, Jun 11, 2015
    Plugs, wires and the coil pack probably have about 5 or 6k on them. The belt isn't that old either, seeing I'll be changing my alternator it will be getting changed again.

    Out of curiosity what numbers should I expect? Should I be looking deeper, the car runs strong is it possible I have an issue I don't know about yet?
     
  8. Dave.0

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    #6 Dave.0, Jun 11, 2015
    The coil non -OEM coils are know to cause issues. (Fried ECUs) MSD etc.

    I would think you should have anywhere between 175 - 190 with temps in the proper range and you car running in tip top shape.

    After that your next step up for a large power bump is a RMW Big Valve head, CAM and much larger the OEM Injectors to feed the fuel with a custom tune and not a canned tune.
     
  9. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #7 jeffster06, Jun 11, 2015
    Looks like I'm 5hp off the lower mark, guess I have some tlc to do.
     
  10. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    #8 Nathan, Jun 11, 2015
    Wonder if a dying alternator, if that is the case, hindered power in some manner.

    Excess drag possibly.

    Not enough voltage for things to run well.

    Just ruminating...
     
  11. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #9 jeffster06, Jun 11, 2015
    I started thinking that once I realized what happened. Surprised I made it home, that and no battery light. Things were definitely not running low speed cooling fan wasn't functioning, heavy power steering etc. I was just thankful to find back roads around traffic to keep moving and that it wasn't dark out, running my headlights would have definitely been the straw that broke the camels back.
     
  12. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #11 jeffster06, Jun 11, 2015
    They just had the blower in front of the car not on the ic though
     
  13. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

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    #12 ZippyNH, Jun 11, 2015
    So it had a very hot intake charge...no cooling air for the the ic...ouch..bet that's why the HP was so low...car likely had HUGE timing pull...
    Know Jan/RMW usually aims a fan to force air through the ic to simulate driving airflow...or at least he was on the day mine was tuned and dyno'd in CT.
     
  14. myles2go

    myles2go Active Member

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    #13 myles2go, Jun 12, 2015
    Did I read that right, a WMW tune, not an RMW tune?
     
  15. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #14 jeffster06, Jun 12, 2015
    It's his quick tune, doesn't mess with fuel trims because it's not done on a dyno. Took the lag out of my accelerator not sure what else it did lol.
     
  16. CHKMINI

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    #15 CHKMINI, Jun 12, 2015
    +1 on dumping that red coil.
     
  17. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #16 jeffster06, Jun 12, 2015
    Its not Red, its black the MSD one is red. Guess the question is would the coil hurt performance or is it just the possibility that it can kill the ecu?
     
  18. jeffster06

    jeffster06 Active Member

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    #18 jeffster06, Jun 12, 2015
    Oh gotcha, I guess the frying is hit or miss because I know several people who run them without issue. It's new enough I suppose I could sell it and buy an OEM to put in its place. I still have my old one with a corroded #3 that I recently found out testing on a friends mini that number 3 still clicks guess it was my plug wire that had had it on that part.
     
  19. ColinGreene

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    #19 ColinGreene, Jun 12, 2015
    The lack of fan on the intercooler is likely a good part of the problem.
    Just because you have a new belt is no gurantee its the proper size or that the tensioner is in good shape.
    I like to watch the belt tensioners during a dyno pull, that often easily tells me if the belt is correct and the tensioner is good.
    A real tune would be the next thing to do for more power along with say a cam and header/injectors.
    Just do try to keep a fan on the intercooler next time you do that.
    I cant say enough bad things about non stock coils but it seems like everyone else has.
    Good luck!