...So you're saying that yours takes only a pump or two to get rock solid, but you've felt others that were hard after just one stroke?
How many "pedals" have you pumped? :devil:
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BThayer23 Well-Known Member
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Way Motor Works New Member
For the ATE blue fluid, I HATE THAT STUFF. I DO NOT RECOMMEND IT. We've found that it has bad longterm effects. It does something to the seals in Both BMW's and MINIs that over time the pedal gets soft, even with changing every 6months, we've used it in other cars like vettes and porsches and had good luck with ATE in them. I've found the Motul to work better and have a higher boiling point. The 660 is a little overkill for a street car. 600 is fine.-
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
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Hmmm. Interesting. Somehow I missed this discussion on Super Blue until now.
I've been running Super Blue and Type 200 for 5+years and over 110k miles and haven't noticed any problems... but my pedal has NEVER been as "rock hard" as some I've felt, even before the super blue. After a pump or two it's rock solid, but it's not "solid" at the end of the first stroke, like some I've seen.-
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
- 2,896
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Mr. Jim MudsharkLifetime Supporter
I went with the reds all around and the slotted only rotors this year, so far I'm liking them alot!
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
They are a great street pad. I'm very pleased with them. Good bite and suprisingly quiet.
They aren't a track pad but the temp range keeps them from glazing and they don't heat fade too much either so they let me be lazy and not swap pads/rotors for track days. -
Crashton Club Coordinator
They should work well if you pay attention to brake fade. It can sneak up on you.
I'm interested in your feedback on them. I'm running Green Stuffed pads too & like them for the street. -
Dwight Racing with the GodsLifetime Supporter
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
Well I've got to say I'm very impressed with brake performance at Big Willow. The track is not particularly punishing to brakes. There are only two hard brake zones with plenty of straights for cooling in between uses. Otherwise most braking is light touches to settle the car.
That being said, there was no sign of boiled fluid. The EBC Reds and rotors worked well in conjunction with the HK R-S3 tires I'm using. I checked the front rotors with a pyrometer after I got off the track (includes a cool-down lap). I was at 420 deg F +/-5 deg consistently after hard lapping sessions. Given that there was a cool down lap I'm gonna guess I was over 500 deg F on track. Pads simply worked without fade. They certainly aren't race compounds but being that I just wanted a street compound that wouldn't argue with a bit of HPDE use. These fit the bill. I'm very happy.
Questions? Comments? Beer? :beer -
KC Jr 54 New Member
I am really glad you had those kinda of results with them. I feel confident recommending them to others now, though i still really want to get a set of Bobcats for myself.
IMO The greens are terrible. Yes, they are quite and produce little dust, but when i really needed them....the brakes just werent there. And with an all-season performance tire (BFG G-Force) i got zero ABS click, i find that to be very un-exceptable. When i switched to the r56 brakes i used the stock pad, which has provided MUCH more capable braking in just normal driving conditions. -
Dwight Racing with the GodsLifetime Supporter
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
The one thing with EBCs is that thier bed-in process is kinda odd for the the street. You really do need to follow directions to get them to bed-in correctly.
I do want to reiterate that the Reds ARE NOT a track compound and don't brake like one. They are a street compound but their formula allows them to keep working well at high temps without glazing or epic fade.
Go with ATE (Blue/200) it's cheaper and has great qualities. Better than OEM but it won't brake the bank.
I used both 500 mL bottles on mine. It was enough for the brakes and the clutch. That's just a hair over one quart if I remember correctly. (Someone Google that to confirm; I could be wrong there)
MINI Recommends every two years on brake fluid under normal driving conditions. If I wasn't doing track days I'd probably do it every year at least. As it stands, I'm not sure I'm gonna make it 6 months between fluid swaps. -
BThayer23 Well-Known Member
2 years for stock brake fluid, 1 year tops for ATE Super Blue (slower water absorbtion than other fluids), 6 months for other racing fluid.
When I flushed out my Super Blue last February, it took 1/2 L for the brakes and another 1/4 L for the clutch. I like the little 1/4 L bottles because you only use one to bleed the brakes. If you're using Super Blue in those 1L bottles, you might as well use the whole thing and do a full flush. Once you open any bottle of brake fluid, it starts absorbing moisture, so make a practice of recycling unused fluid that's sitting around for more than a week. -
Thought occurred to me that the bottle is a sealed container with a twist on lid and our cars are basically the same (in this case a master cylinder resevoir with a twist on cap)
I understand that over time brake fluid absorbs water and thats why we change it out at the intervals mentioned not to mention the degradation that heat causes over time
Why does brake fluid sitting in a opened bottle with a twist on cap absorb water quicker than sitting in our cars?
PS Redbeard - Lookin Good! -
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
1:48.7XX (OEM)
1:46.4XX (Starspecs)
1:44.603 (R-S3s and Brakes)
I'll be honest and say the equipment helped but this last time at Big Willow, but it all sorta "clicked" on track and I was just haulin' the mail (for me anyway) out there. The funny thing is that I know I left at least another half second out there while still driving safe. I know where I left it too. It really was just a good track day all around on Sunday. -
Dwight Racing with the GodsLifetime Supporter
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Redbeard JCW: because fast is fun!Supporting Member
First I've heard the ATE 200/Blue causing seal issues. I know there are a fair amount of guys in SoCal running that fluid in thier DD MINIs without issues(that they have mentioned anyway). Good info.
I'm pretty sure I mentioned that the 660 was admittedly overkill (Fun overkill though :cornut. I was told to try Neo Synthetics Brake Fluid but the 660 was a bit cheaper and had a better dry boiling point with a slightly lower wet one. I figured it would be a better call. I'll probably swap back to RBF 600 for the next fluid change.
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