El Señor Cooper.

Discussion in 'Project Car Builds' started by Onebunchmin, Aug 2, 2017.

  1. Guest - Welcome to the new Motoring Alliance Site! Steve, MCS02 and I were up until the early hours this morning working to get it done... as you can see it took us a bit longer than expected to get Phase 1 up and running. We are not 100% there.. its a journey. For site updates, "How Do I" and feedback please use the Announcements, How Do I, Feedback Forum (Links below). Like building a car.... its never done... and thanks for your patience

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  1. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    I'm posting this as a sort of timeline of my car, this will be a slow and arduous process. I don't like to cut corners so I take my time. That and I'm poor. In that I have no money after buying parts. Yey.

    This is my daily driver and future Autocross/HPDE car.

    2005 R53 With the 6 speed

    Here are some pics When I first got it.

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    And yes I know the intake isin't the best. But it came with the car.
     
  2. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    So my low Brake pad light was on. The previous owner informed me that I needed new brakes.

    I did.

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    That's not even the worst.

    This one is.

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    You can see the groove on the backing plate the rotor made.

    I don't have any pics of the new hardware but they were: New stainless braided hoses, brass caliper guide pin bushings, Centric NON-Cryo blank rotors from Tirerack and Hawk HP+ Brake pads.
    I also needed a new right rear caliper as the boot was torn, didn't want to deal with rebuilding it.

    These Brakes are fantastic for my application.

    I could care less about Brake Noise Or dust, Especially during a Panic stop. I'll turn up my Harmon/Kardon Stereo if the noise is too much. :p (Or until the AMP blows up)
     
  3. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    I've had this clunk every time I changed gear, and If I had any wheel spin (And I do considering the weight of the car and open diff) The drive-train would shake violently and bang around.

    Culprit: Lower engine mount.

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    I replaced it with this BSH Mount.

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    However the Upper Hydraulic mount was leaking so I replaced it with this Vibra-Technics Poly upper mount. I chose this because I don't want another failure-prone hydraulic mount and I want a stiffer drive train.
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    Those two along with a Powerflex Black series Poly Gearbox Bushing insert translates to a good time :D.

    The ONLY time I notice more vibration is when I'm taking off. That's it.

    I've read reviews on how the vibration is so bad that sinkholes will appear and take you to Narnia.

    Bull. The driving feel is more connected, but not NEARLY uncomfortable. But hey. That's just me. I guess I have a High tolerance for this stuff.

    Oh. And I changed the Gearbox fluid to Redline MTL.
     
  4. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    So in my paranoia infused preventative maintenance state. I replaced the Failure prone Harmonic Balancer with an ATI +2 percent overdrive Harmonic balancer, As I did not want to be stranded with a failed unit.

    I also got it with the optional Titanium Hardware. Why? BECAUSE THIS IS THE FIRST TITANIUM ANYTHING I'VE EVER OWNED, AND NOBODY CAN TAKE THAT FEELING FROM ME.

    .....anyways. On to the pics.

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    So purdy.

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    I also changed the tensioner and added an Alta tensioner stop. Although i'll upgrade to an adjustable one later on.
     
  5. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    I took it to a Dyno Day. Yay.
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    The only performance mods were a Hot air intake and the 2% Overdrive pulley. Everything else is stock. Including the ignition system.
     
  6. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    Until now.

    I put in some new Denso Iridium Power Sparkplugs, Magnecore ignition cables and a Screemin Demon Coil Pack.

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    (I had the plugs and cables on first, which is why they are on with the old coil.)
     
  7. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    I serviced my Supercharger. Time Consuming but very straightforward.

    I noticed the car was quicker after everything was done, probably due to boost leaks that were fixed by changing all the seals and dried out hoses. Neat. I also installed a Detroit tuned Bypass valve while I serviced my supercharger. I feel a more immediate power delivery, it was well worth it.

    I also Replaced the Water Pump behind the Supercharger, Replaced the leaking plastic thermostat housing with an aluminum one and a 180 degree thermostat, new forge REDDDDDDDD (Because theY were CONSIDERABLY cheaper than Black) Silicone Coolant hoses and a CSF Aluminum Radiator. Which looks AWESOME.



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  8. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    I'm a "While I'm in there" Kind of person.

    The previous owner already replaced the Oil filter housing gasket and Crank sensor o-Ring so they do not leak.

    However...Being as anal as I am, that wasn't good enough. So I took out the Crank sensor o-ring and replaced it with one made from Viton so make sure it won't leak for a LOOONG time. And if it does, it's a Good thing I bought two :p.

    While I was in there I replaced the Leaking oil pan Gasket.

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    Not bad. But wait there's more.

    While I was in there with the pan removed, I installed this...

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    RMW Baffled oil pickup. Extra insurance through the corners.

    I was going to use this with the SneedSpeed Windage tray but it would not fit, Oh well, the tray will wait for now.

    I'll be using this next oil service. Currently running Rotella T6.

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  9. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    Update pic under the hood, You can see the shameless rice stickers on the front bumper to alert dudes on what Junk I have cooling my other Junk :p. I will get it cleaned again in the next wash and hopefully add a stainless IC Dirverter from DDM and change out those poopy looking IC Screws.
    I have some other gaskets and O-rings in the mail, and brakes for the.....other car.

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    My evaporator is leaking so I have to figure out on how to change that, expecting the worst since it's pretty much a BMW.
    At least the part's cheap, unlike the heater core for a Miata.
    Although with this the A/C System will be brand new since I replaced the compressor awhile back :p
     
  10. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    I'm rebuilding the front Subframe while I do the Clutch and LSD. Everything is pretty much going to be replaced. Powerflex Black series Front sway bar bushings and steering rack bushing. Alta PSRS FCAB's, new inner and outer tie rods. Ball joint spacers. Ect. Than I'll rebuild the rear suspension with the new R56 Aluminum Rear trailing arms and Powerflex COMPLETE (Not just the inserts) Black series RTAB's and some adjustable rear trailing arm bars. And then FINALLY coilovers. Still don't know which ones.
     
  11. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    Also My CSF Radiator developed a leak. So CSF sent me another one without asking for the old one back. Good service.

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    I don't think CSF is a crap and cheap company. Leaks in aftermarket aluminum radiators happen all the time, no matter what brand.
     
  12. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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  13. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    share pic online

    Getting along. Found out my axle was toast. Ordered two new ones from Sneedspeed after failing on cheap Aftermarket ones.

    Now I'll clean up the subframe a bit before waiting on the axles to arrive. Yey.

    Also. The duel mass Flywheel had around an inch of play in it. So that's why it felt like I had a broken motor mount when all of my mounts were poly/new. Plus the throwout bearing was shot and came apart in my hands.
     
  14. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    First impressions: Err meh guurd

    Traction is the key word today.

    Yes, I'll be like everyone else who reviews an LSD after having an open diff. This is some good ****.

    Now keep in mind that I replaced a lot of other stuff to go along with this, including the clutch, rebuild subframe, ect.

    The diff: In the wet I have about as much traction with the LSD as I did in the dry with the open diff, keep in mind it's easy to break traction even with the LSD, but now I have to actually "make" it break traction, as with before it would just loose traction on it's own with little effort.

    In the dry it's scary how much more traction I have. I have never driven a FWD car with an LSD. Never. So at first it was weird (and a Bit scary ) because I used the throttle to steer the car under heavy acceleration and through understeer. Now the car rotates fiercely through the corner if you floor it. So now I have to ease up on the throttle and relearn how to drive this car again to get used to the new driving dynamics.

    Overall I can clearly say that this Diff was 100% worth it and would recommend it. (What a surprise)

    The ACT clutch is still breaking in. Overall I really like it. Direct response, High grab point on the pedal, more direct grab point...ect

    The flywheel is noisy but whatever. It's MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH better than the Dual-mass POS with an inch of play in it. Quick shifts, very quick downshifts, easier to downshift to second gear now.

    Can't wait to continue with the R56 Rear aluminum arms and some coilovers. I know about the heavy ass wheels but I want to finish my suspension first. I don't like putting aftermarket wheels on a stock suspension.
     
  15. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    So my manifold blew wide open just past the precat. So when I floor it it becomes an open header. But it seals back up when driving calmly. Redneck exhaust valve lol.

    I bought Sneed Speed's very last catless exhaust manifold. (No inspections in Florida. Yey.)

    I'm going to get it Ceramic coated and get an M7 Header blanket to go with it. Plus some stainless ARP Hardware for the manifold to head.

    I might just get a new JCW Backbox and leave the rest of the system unresonated.

    This car with an open header is suprisingly quieter than I expected it to be lol.

    Pics of the new Manifold.

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  16. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
    Staff Member Articles Moderator Premium Supporter

    Jul 31, 2009
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    Very nice build you have going! Because you got the 2% ATI pulley, if you get a pulley for the SC I would go with a 15% no more. That will give you a total of 17%. If you go much higher you start to lose because of heat gain and posable reliability. I much prefer the PowerFlex LCA to alta. The stock coil pack is good to I believe 300HP someone here can correct me if I am wrong. There are people that have had problems with other coil packs, but some run them with no problem.
    Its looking good! I can't wait to see more.
     
  17. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
    Staff Member Articles Moderator Premium Supporter

    Jul 31, 2009
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    Oops there was another page I didn't read. Nice!
     
  18. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    2% on the crank doesnt really equal 2% on the supercharger. But I will eventually end up at 15% max on the supercharger. I'm fine where the power is now. I'm paranoid without proper engine monitoring and atleast JCW injectors.

    Then it snowballs.

    I like the ALTA Ones because they have less flexing material. These work just fine for daily driving other then a clunk when braking in reverse. Oh well. I'll plug my ears. I do have the PF Black series bushings pressed into my new R56 Rear trailing arms. I've had no issues with the coil pack. I did put OEM plugs back in and it was a bit better than the densos.
     
  19. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
    Lifetime Supporter

    May 4, 2009
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    Burbs of Philly, PA
    Also get rid of that coil as it is junk just like the MSD coil on a MINI.

    OEM coil is the best with OEM wires and NGK plugs. When you upgrade you injectors skip the silly JCW ones and got to 550's and get a custom tune to have them scaled. RMW

    http://store.revolutionmini.com 550's are only $325.00 for a set.



    FYI. Friends don't let friends buy ALTA or M7 parts. :thumbsup:
     
  20. Onebunchmin

    Onebunchmin New Member

    Jul 31, 2017
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    As I said. Snowball. Custom tuning is really expensive. I'll keep the power stock for now as I'm happy where it stands. Besides. I want my suspension dialed in first. I bought the wrong car if I'm interested in power off the bat. When funds allow and the suspension is complete. I'll add more powaaaaaaa.

    I've had no issues with the coil. But if I do then I'll put my OEM one back in.

    I'll check out other header blanket brands but I don't want to heat wrap it.

    I don't get what the hate is about with the ALTA fcabs. I understand the dislike of the first gen version with the crappy set screws. But I really like the second gen ones I have. Some people think it's too much for Daily driving. I still think it's too soft.

    Thanks for the responses.
     

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