Most liked posts in thread: Engine failure

Might also check the vacuum pump, they've been known to lock up causing bent ex valves. I had the crank bolt work loose after using the wrong torque spec. Found one of these to help keep the bolt from loosening.

 

That just sucks I have a manual at the shop I can double-check the torque process compared to all data for you Monday. Something slipped unless it was the chain but I can't see that happening very easily.
You said both cams out slightly so I think crank pully is what moved or chain jumped on the crank pully but man it would have to be way loose.
I do remember reading something about the early crank bolt spec calling for 100 degrees of rotation after initial torque and that was a misprint and it should be 180 but don't hold me to that until confirmed.

 

The bolt or balancer would not have to move just the gear if the clamping force was not tight enough. Was your spec the 50nm and 180 degrees rotation on the crank bolt? If it was the incorrect 100 degrees that could do it.

Here are all the torque values.
Damper Hub to Crankshaft - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 50Nm (36.8 ft-lbs)
Stage 2 = additional 180deg of rotation

Exhaust Sprocket to Camshaft [N14] - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 20Nm (14.7 ft-lbs)
State 2 = additional 90deg of rotation

VANOS Unit to Intake Camshaft [N14] - Use New Fastener
Stage 1 = 20Nm (14.7 ft-lbs)
Stage 2 = additional 180deg of rotation

 

Sounds like you're not aware of these procedures, complete with torque specs --- https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ Use the last seven characters of your VIN to ensure the correct versions.

 

He's referring to an aftermarket cylinder head - it sounds like you're in the UK and most of us are here in the States. Over here, RMW is one such company that sells a big valve head for the Cooper S, but I don't know if they do them for the turbo era cars.

 

Did you replace the sprocket bolts and crank bolt? They are torque to yield fasteners so they stretch when torqued some of that springs back when loosened but not all of it so the bolt becomes longer when reused they can sometimes bottom out in the cam so when you do the final step you are simply twisting the bolt not applying pressure to the gear. Same with the crankshaft bolt.
This will cause the gear to slip later on if you absolutely had to reuse a cam or crank bolt thread it in first to make sure it goes in deeper than the gear is thick if not grind some off. But remember Its already yielded once twice is pushing it.

 

Found it.

Cooper S (R56) L4-1.6L Turbo (N14) (2009)

Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Incorrect Crankshaft Central Bolt Torque Change

 

what spec did you use last time? if it was the 100deg spec you can reuse it as it was never stretched to the point of yield. But if you're re-ordering cam bolts why not get all 3 cheap insurance I suppose

 

Torque center bolts first then work outwards.

M8 x 35mm
30 Nm (22.1 ft-lb)

M8 x 95mm
stage 1 - 15 Nm (11 ft-lb)
stage 2 - additional 90 degrees
stage 3 - additional 90 degrees

M10 x 145mm
stage 1 - 30 Nm (22.1 ft-lb)
stage 2 - additional 90 degrees
stage 3 - additional 90 degrees

Use new bolts

 

There should be a valve disk as well it may still be in the smaller part of the lifter. Looking at another is a good idea to make sure you get it right.

 

Got a message from Williamc that the car is up and running fine. I hate threads with no end so I messaged him to see.

 

Sorry about your mechanical problems, but, Welcome to M/A!

All o my MINIs are Generation 1's, so I cannot be of any help, but, there are many on here who can offer the suggestions you need....good luck!