Engine hoists and engine pulls... oh, MY!

Discussion in 'Mid-Ohio Motoring' started by ImagoX, Dec 13, 2011.

  1. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

    Nov 1, 2010
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    Has anyone used this one? Only 1-ton, but that should be plenty for an A-series or for motorcycles, yes?

    Engine Hoist / Shop Crane - 1 Ton
    [​IMG]

    Sunbelt rents units that look very similar to this for $26/day or $75 a week, but at that point, I figure I might just want to buy one, assuming this won't buckle the first timer I use it - that way, I can loan/rent it to other people in the club as well as use it again if I ever need to do this again.

    Last, can this hoist be used as a work stand with the engine suspended, or should I also be looking at an engine work stand, too? Also, what about chains/bolts/lifting accessories?
     
  2. LIL PIGG

    LIL PIGG Club Coordinator

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    currently I have mine still connected to the hoist until I take the bell housing off to mount it to the engine stand. I would recommended you get a stand. Not sure about the weight limit. The hoist I am using is a 4,000 pound hoist.
     
  3. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Will this do the trick?

    Folding Engine Stand - 2000 Lb. Capacity
    [​IMG]

    Sorry if this is self-evident, but I've never hoisted an engine so I don't know if these are sufficiently adjustable to fit the A-series or not, nor am I sure where to attach the hoist and/or what additional hardware I'll need to attach either the hoist or the stand to the block. I'll be pulling off the clutch for sure to renew it, as well as pulling the entire thing apart to replace 100% of my leaky-ass gaskets. Last, I'll paint, which I assume I'll do after everything's re-assembled.
     
  4. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    Pffffffff.......

    Bring Fiona down to my shop..... I'll introduce her to my crane.....
    [​IMG]
     
  5. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    That might be a BIT more than I need...
     
  6. rigidjunkie

    rigidjunkie New Member

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    If you shake it a few times the engine will just fall right out!
     
  7. LIL PIGG

    LIL PIGG Club Coordinator

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    Matt, I can take pictures tomorrow and post them. I will try to show you where I hooked up the hoist to the engine. You will need attachments so you have plenty of options to hook to a engine. Since the whole car weighs about 1,400 pounds I would think a small hoist will do the trick.
     
  8. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Awesome - thanks, man! Appreciate it...

    Hey - when I'm in the car disconnecting the axles from the transmission, are there any tricks or things I should look out for, or is the procedure as detailed in the Haynes book the best method? I'm going to try to pull it in a few weeks.
     
  9. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Those Harbor Freight hoists and engine stands are fine for what you're doing, but I've rebuilt many a Mini engine sitting on a milk crate or just on the floor.

    You may need some special bolts and/or spacers to attach the engine to the engine stand, but it makes life oh so much easier when the engine's at that level instead of on the floor, and being able to rotate it makes things easier too. One thing tho, are you removing the transmission from the engine and replacing rod and crank bearings, or are you taking it out just for the clutch and general clean up? If not you don't need the engine stand.

    You can buy an engine leveler fairly cheaply but I doubt you need it to pull the Mini engine, you will need a short lengths of lightweight chain to attach between the engine and the lift.
     
  10. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    I've used a short chain attached to the 2 valve cover bolts. works like a charm. Matt remove that nice valve cover before you hook the chains up or you'll scratch it up.
     
  11. LIL PIGG

    LIL PIGG Club Coordinator

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    Ok here are some pictures. You can see in the pictures where I hooked the chains from the hoist up to. just hook the engine and if you need to move the engine around for clearance then just move the hoist. Mine worked out really well. There was three of us watching for clearance and we had to move the exhaust a bit to make room. Nothing really special for the axles. yours might hook up differently then mine so maybe look at the book. I did use a fork to get the axles out and it worked great, didn't damage the boot or anything.
     

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  12. LIL PIGG

    LIL PIGG Club Coordinator

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    two more pictures, you can see the hoist and engine stand. I did use longer bolts to hook the hoist up to the engine. Those two spots worked really well for me. If you want amy more pictures then I can post them. just tell me what close up pics you want me to take.
     

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  13. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    I want to pull EVERYTHING but the wheels/axles including the sump and everything else so I can tear out all the leaky gaskets, renew the clutch, and paint everything. I already have the head off the car for a valve job. Do I need rod and crank bearings as well while I have everything out? I was going to get new CV boots since one is old and one was replaced a few years back - I figure having both new would be a good idea. Anything else?
     
  14. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Re: bolting on the lift chain - what's that you bolted to on the clutch side and where did you connect the other side? So you only lifted from TWO points?
     
  15. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    I used to use the alternator or generator bracket and the opposite exhaust stud.....two points is enough.

    You don't NEED to change the rod/crank bearings if they're not worn, but you're going to have it torn down pretty far, it wouldn't take a lot more to change those. The key would be how your oil pressure was, especially at idle....low pressure might indicate worn bearings. Since you have the clutch out it's pretty easy to separate the tranny from the engine and pull a cap off one of the rods and mic the journal, or at least look at the wear pattern on the bearing shell.

    I was only enquiring what your plans were......not trying to give you more work! :Thumbsup:
     
  16. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    Well I don't have an oil pressure gauge (yet), but I do have a center-mount binnacle I'll be installing that has one, as well as the plumbing I need to add to the block to use it. Don't know if the pressure is low or not, but like you said, if I'm already there I might as well.

    What parts do I need to look for? "Rod Crank bearings" found me parts like the rod-change oil seal (which I already have a replacement part for), but I think you mean something else...

    EDIT:

    Is this the complete set of gaskets I'll need when I separate the tranny from the bottom edge of the block?

    http://www.7ent.com/products/gasket-set-transmission-ajm0804b.html
    [​IMG]

    What about gaskets over on the clutch side? Anything else? I already have a head gasket as well as gaskets for the thermostat, exhaust manifold, rocker cover, rod-change oil seal, and mechanical fuel pump.
     
  17. LIL PIGG

    LIL PIGG Club Coordinator

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    I took out a bolt from the water pump and inserted a longer bolt. I took out a bolt from a breather tube and inserted a longer bolt to lift from. Yes two point is all I used to lift from. it worked great. I think you were asking me this question instead of Minidave? If you are going to redo the clutch then you will need the red seal also. Yours might be ok but it is easy to damage if you pull it out. I can email you the pictures if they are not clear enough.
     
  18. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    #38 Minidave, Dec 29, 2011
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2011
    Rod and crank bearings are precision pieces, you need to make sure you get the right ones - if the crank is stock and has standard sized bearings, you can buy new standard bearings, but you should mic the crank to see if it is standard or has been machined undersize over it's life.

    If this is a little "techie" for you you can remove the crank and take it to a local machine shop, they can check it for you, if it's worn or out of round they can machine it and supply the correct undersize bearings. If it's standard, and the shells don't look badly worn, chances are you could just replace the shells with the same as what's in there now and off you go.

    There are a few tricks and tips about changing the shells - you need to make sure they're very clean, but don't just wipe them with a shop rag - there's usually a coating on them, you can rinse that off with a spray of brake cleaner or even WD40, then use non linting cloth to wipe the back side dry - the point is that you don't want anything between the back of the shell and where it goes. I usually run a clean finger over where the shell goes just before inserting it to make sure there's no dust, lint or anything there. and do not put oil under the shell when you place it back in the block or rod ends. You also need to make sure you get the right shell in the right place, there may be a hole for an oil passage, and make sure the locating tangs are in the notch where they belong.

    Make sure there's plenty of oil on the crank side of the shell before you bolt things back together. It would be great if you can have an experienced person looking over your shoulder when you're putting it back together to make sure you don't miss something important....if you don't have anyone handy to you then make sure you ask plenty of questions here, we'll be glad to help you in any way we can.

    A new timing chain would be a good investment too - it's very easy to change, just make sure you have the crank and cam in the right places before and after you remove it - there's usually a bump or mark on the two gears that you line up. Front crank seal too, since you'll be removing the timing chain cover where it resides.

    When you order the parts from your supplier, they should be able to tell you what additional items/gaskets/seals you might need to buy...

    A lot or shops recommend you put new nuts on the connectiong rods when you replace the bearings, they're not expensive and a good idea. You do have a good torque wrench, right? You'll need it for the crank and rod bearing bolts/nuts and for the head bolts at a minimum.....Oh, and rod/main bearing caps MUST go back where they came from, and in exactly the same way - they are not interchangeable!

    Here is a pic of the connecting rod bearing shells.....btw, Mini Mania would be an excellent source of both info and the parts you'll need. See the hole in the center of the shell? That has to line up with a corresponding hole in the connecting rod. The crankshaft main bearings will look similar, but will be larger and wider. Also there will probably be separate thrust washers that take the sideways load incurred by pushing on the clutch. The red seal LilPig mentions is the rear crankshaft seal, and yes you should definitely replace it.

    [​IMG]

    Probably the best thing you can do as a beginner is to take your time, lay everythig out in order as you remove it, place small items in plastic bags and mark them, and take lots of pictures from all different angles of everything. Bytes are cheap and can prove valuable on reassembly.
     
  19. LIL PIGG

    LIL PIGG Club Coordinator

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    Hey Matt, when you get your engine out you have to take a picture like this.

    P.S.
    I have a puller for the clutch if you need one. It is a Mini Puller and works great. If you need anything give me a shout. I am happy to help out if I can.
     

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  20. ImagoX

    ImagoX New Member

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    HA! Too. Effing. Awesome! Love it!

    I'd definitely love to have you around for the pull and the re-installation later in the spring if you'd care to join us. I'm just working out the details on all the parts - Paul in Dayton has most of them but a few will need to be ordered from 7Ent. or MiniMania or somewhere. And we need to clear my bench -there's a friend's motorcycle engine up there ATM that needs to be completed. :)

    I'll probably end up yanking it out right after I get back from my honeymoon in early March - I'd LIKE to pull it before the wedding (Amy and I are getting hitched on Feb. 18), but I'm not sure if I'll get to it before then, obviously. Given the tight timeframes, I'll take ANY AND ALL help I can get from people who have done this sort of work before, in the hopes that I can get the thing put back together and actually, you know, ROLLING UNDER ITS OWN POWER come spring/summer. I hope. I hope...

    Can you send me your phone number to my email? It's "imagox(at)yahoo(dot)com". I'd love your help and expert advice when I hoist the thing - I'll be getting my lift and engine stand this week! Actually, if ANYONE in the Columbus area wants to drop by to lend a hand or just to sit in the peanut gallery, beer in hand, to observe the process, email me your info as well and I'll let you know when I have a date for the pull. The car is in east Columbus near Noe-Bixby Rd. and that's where we'll be doing the work.
     

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