Gizmo is running but still in diagnostic/recovery stage.
Got the new camshaft gear this morning at 9am, came home and reinstalled the camshaft, rockers, gear, etc. Did a compression test and it all looked good. After some misc. headaches I went to Autozone and they loaned me an OBDII reader (good to know people) because Gizmo was throwing four codes. I charge the battery, restart the engine and all but P1498 go away. My PCV valve is damaged, it arrives Monday, I think there is a leak between the valve and the hose.
The engine runs smoothly and I sat in the car for a few minutes, then the aux cooling fan kicks in and the temp doesn't rise, a minute later is slowly starts rising and I shut off the engine. So after bleeding air and filling with more coolant earlier in the day, I did it one more time and there still seemed to be some air in the coolant.
I stopped working for the day, need to make sure I get out all of the air. I bled from the upper radiator hose and the bleed valve by the thermostat.
Have you considered just selling the replacement on Ebay and get a rebuilt from another source......
If you need to go through this a third time with labor.... You aren't going to be a happy camper...
Sell the rebuilt unit on eBay and buy yourself a reman unit from MINI. I went through the exact same process last summer and ended up blowing up two rebuilt superchargers after driving around for a week each time. Finally I sucked it up and bought a remanufactured unit (for 4x the price of a rebuild!) and haven't had a problem since.
MINI sells brand new superchargers and factory remanufactured units; you can get a good price on a factory reman unit (and a real warranty!) from some of the vendors online. Talk to Eric, see what his price he can get, and check IMBMParts.com. Jan from RMW found me a good price on my unit. You'll pay way more than the Supercharger Technologies rebuild price, but it won't fail.
The reason the rebuilt units fail is tolerance stacking. To get it right, you have to assemble all the parts of the supercharger and measure the tolerances. Then you have to take it apart and swap in some parts that fit better, put it all back together again, and measure the ultimate tolerance again. Rinse and repeat till everything fits perfectly. The non-factory rebuilders just don't have enough parts available - many use used components from old superchargers. The factory reman units have huge parts bins to choose from, and it makes a difference. They also have the factory jigs to assemble everything properly. See discussion here: Tolerance analysis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I currently have TWO superchargers. The original I had installed by Helix I am bringing to MOTD to give to Way as the core. The replacement one is currently on my car but has to be taken off again. Way emailed me back and the SC will be shipped out tomorrow.
I paid Helix $750 for the supercharger when they installed it last year so technically the place in FL doesn't owe my anything for that. But the 15+ hours or labor (at $100 an hour) is what gets me...
If I can get the cost of the first SC back I think that is more than fair for the headache and addition costs it has caused me. I am fine just cutting my losses, fixing my car, and getting back on the road.
Sounds like a head gasket. Normal Mini head gasket systoms of runs fine and then overheat all of a sudden and no leaks outside. The tank is boiling over and venting. That's where the coolant on the PS and header are coming from.
A shop can use a tool to sniff the coolant & check for the presence of combustion gas. Sounds like your head gasket may be leaking. How does your oil look, normal or like brown sludge?
Other thing it could be is air in the coolant system. In all of my reading on bleeding the system properly, I came across many that said coolant spewing everywhere was a byproduct of air in the system.
Sounds like I would try to find the KNOCK....this likely caused the HEAT, which caused the overheat...
You MIGHT have busted your coolant tank from the overheating...but that would just likely be damage from the overheat, but not the thing that caused it...
I am betting you need to get it into a shop..maybe have a compression test and a leakdown done ASAP....the cause might be more serious.
The 'KNOCK" can indicate a serious issue, especially if the proper fuel was being used.....or might have been caused by improper fuel...and done other $$damage....
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