Most liked posts in thread: Engine Rebuild Videos

  1. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    I'm going to try and be thorough, and I don't want to bore people but I'm sure there will be tiny details that I'll miss describing. Things that seem obvious to me may not be so obvious to the first timer - so if something doesn't seem right, or if it seems like I skipped a bit, ask and I'll do my best to explain further.

    One thing I can't stress enough is to use the correct puller to remove the flywheel - the best one you can buy is the one John sells on Guessworks. It's a little spendy but it will work, and to me that's worth a lot - not wasting time using an incorrect puller or damaging parts with the wrong tool or process. I don't have that puller, mine seems to do the job for me, but I also use an impact wrench - tightening the puller with a breaker bar may not give the same quick results.

    http://guessworks.co.uk/Shop/Parts/display.htm?id=501

    I've read countless accounts of guys having to use heat, banging on the flywheel thru the starter hole and so on to get one off - if you're going to do it just buy and use the right tool, save a ton of grief and frustration.
     
  2. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    I spent a little time today getting ready for the assembly once the parts get here. I've got everything cleaned and painted so I'm down to just little stuff till the parts get here.

    To that end I put in all the shift linkage inside the case and drove the small roll pin in place to lock it in.

    IMG_20210920_160607R.jpg

    I also removed the remains of the bearing inner race on the 2.76 crown gear. I tried to use my bearing spreader on it but it simply wasn't having it, so I got out the cutting wheel and made a slice in the bearing race, I didn't even have to hit it with the cold chisel, after I made the cut as I was walking over to get the hammer and chisel I heard a 'pop" and when I looked at it I could clearly see the split, it pulled right off with a pair of channel locks. No damage to the gear either.

    IMG_20210920_155409R.jpg

    IMG_20210920_155621R.jpg

    IMG_20210920_155607R.jpg

    The last thing I did was install the seal and support bushing for the shift shaft, and the seals in the side covers.

    I dug out extra shims and other odds and ends for the assembly, the new crown wheel bolts and lock tabs etc. Now I'm stopped till the new parts get here. More as it happens, probably a week from now.
     
  3. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    Part 3, where we talk about cylinder heads and valves....

     
  4. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    OK, not a video, but just some pics. I spent a lot of time cleaning the block and pistons up - that doesn't make for good video so I didn't bother....

    I'm on the horns of a dilemma right now. I thought maybe I would just freshen this engine up - new consumables like bearings, oil pump, timing chain and rings. Give it a light hone to clean up the cylinders and build it back a little better than stock - after all it ran really well - it just smoked, leaked and had worn synchros and a noisy bearing in the gearbox, all fixable with a minimum outlay of parts. I already have a cam, lifters, and rings in stock that I would like to use up but......

    After cleaning up the pistons I found one is damaged - I'm going to talk to the machinist before I do anything more with it. It's possible the block is worn or tapered too far and will require boring oversize. I'm almost certain the crank will need to be turned, although I also have a std crank that does not need anything.

    IMG_20210913_122545R.jpg

    IMG_20210913_122608R.jpg

    So - if I'm going to bore it anyway......normally I would just go 40 over, leaving one more overbore to 60 if needed. OTOH, this would be a chance to go crazy and build a 1380 - when you do that the block is no longer useful once it wears out - you're done. But, do I really care?

    Also, the plan for this car is to get it running nicely and sell it on, so I can build my hot rod motor for my rear engine project. That one could be the 1380 plus turbo that I've been thinking about. I already have the spare block, crank, rods and head to build that engine.....and if I go crazy I might even put a 5 speed in it and make the ultimate highway cruiser - all of which would suggest just build this one into a nice driver and send it on. OTOH, I might keep it for a while.....

    See the problem? can't make up my mind.....

    A couple of pics of the exhaust ports "before", I'll have after pics later. Also, block and pistons cleaned up....

    IMG_20210912_141739R.jpg

    IMG_20210912_141742R.jpg

    IMG_20210912_141744R.jpg

    IMG_20210913_115504R.jpg
     
  5. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    Well, Moss won - both shipments came in - one on Sunday and one today. It surprised me to see that what they shipped from California - one tiny little spring! I needed it so I was glad it came in - now I just nee DHL to visit so I can get the machine shops to work on the block, head and crankshaft.

    The Mini gearbox is cleaned and ready for assembly....

    IMG_20210926_101518R.jpg
     
  6. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    DHL dropped today, so I'll be back to work on this gearbox in a day or so.

    I ran the pistons out to the machine shop, and the valve guides and new valves downtown to the cyl head shop, with any luck they'll both be done by Friday afternoon. The crankshaft guy comes in on Friday too, and mine is the first in line.
     
  7. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    Got the block all cleaned up and I'm giving it a few coats of paint today, the weather is perfect for painting outside - we had a hell of a rain storm last night so there's no dust in the air, and today it's sunny, warm and fairly not humid with a very light breeze. Just enough to carry off the paint fumes! [​IMG]

    I installed all the water and oil core plugs - one tip, drill the hole in the oil plugs with a 1/4" bit, not 5/16" as I used - it leaves a lot more metal to tap the old shell out with. Much easier that way....

    Color to be revealed in my next video, where I'll be building the block back up.
     
  8. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    In tonight's installment I put the block together with the cranks, rods and pistons and cam.



    I also installed the new thrust washers and made sure the clearance was correct, and finished up the front end by setting cam timing, installing the chain, tensioner and putting the front cover on.

    3.5 thou instead of 10 on the thrust bearing clearance

    IMG_20211017_154741R.jpg

    Front end all buttoned up....

    IMG_20211018_163337R.jpg
     
  9. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    OK, here's part two, where I remove the oil pump, cam and lifters, pistons/rods and crank.

     
  10. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Jul 31, 2009
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    I got home early this morning and watched half of the first one as I eat lunch. I think it's great so far. I like the advice you gave about using baggies if its your first time. I cant wait to finish the first one and move on to the second one.
    I couldn't think but how nice it was to watch a Master Craftsmen.
     
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  11. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    I love this! Not as much fun as Binky, but very informative :)
     
  12. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    #10 Minidave, Sep 16, 2021
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2021
    Today I disassembled the gearbox for overhaul.....it was leaking from every seal and gasket, it had a crunchy second gear synchro and a noisy bearing somewhere.

     
  13. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    Got the last few bits cleaned and ready, so I cleaned, primed and painted the case.

    Trying to decide if I might like a color for the engine other than red or black.....I was wondering what it might look like in a light silvery green like they used on the big Healy's and MGC's?

    IMG_20210918_134636R.jpg

    IMG_20210918_134644R.jpg
     
  14. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    I'm hoping it makes a noticeable difference.....we'll see. I'm making so many changes (bigger bores, higher compression, different cam, new electronic dizzy, taller final drive) that it may not be quantifiable.
     
  15. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    I placed an order to MiniSpares last Thursday, and one to Moss on Monday of this week, and I wondered which would get here sooner - it's still a toss up as I haven't gotten a ship notice yet from DHL and it's usually at least three days from then that parts arrive. I did get ship notices from Moss, 1/2 of my parts are coming from Virginia, the other half from California! Still a toss up on whether England or the US parts will arrive first!
     
  16. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    I do it because when I drop small parts they don't bounce as far! :)

    That and the workbench is metal, so it doesn't scar up fresh paint that way....like on the Mini transmission case.

    Oh, and one other thing - I used to set freshly cleaned parts on those nice red shop rags - but then a few days later all my nice clean parts were rusted where they touched the shop rag! Cardboard doesn't do this!
     
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  17. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    I picked up the block, pistons and crank today, but the head won't be ready for another week or more - the shop is that backed up.

    So tonight I decided to start on the diff - to that end I took it the rest of the way apart - my plan was only to change out the cross shaft as that's the part that wears, but it was badly damaged, along with the bushings in the side gears so a decision has been made for me - I'll be installing a new cross pin diff carrier!

    IMG_20211001_203857R.jpg

    I also noticed that one of the fiber thrust washers for the stub axles was completely worn out and gone. All these parts come new in the cross pin kit so they'll all be replaced. Now I need to double check the bushings in the side covers and see if they've worn badly too - I can press new ones in but they'll have to be reamed to fit and I don't have that reamer either. I hope they're OK.....I suppose I can just buy new side covers with new bushings already installed and sized.....that would run another $150......what the hell, it's only money! [​IMG]

    IMG_20211001_203857R.jpg IMG_20211001_205203R.jpg

    IMG_20211001_205437R.jpg

    Lastly I took a look at the new laygear inner shaft - I noticed it's made a little differently than the old one - someone tell me why this matters?

    IMG_20211001_202509R.jpg

    IMG_20211001_202517R.jpg
     
  18. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    #32 Minidave, Oct 3, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2021
    No takers for my question about the inner layshaft?

    Normally you would not want to see a sharp edge on a shaft as it transitions from one size to another, as those create stress risers and they can break there. However, if you look closely in the second pic you can see there is a small radius at that edge - MED sells the exact same shaft for their race gearboxes, so it must be OK!

    Today I built the cross pin differential and installed the 2:76 final drive gear, film at eleven!



    I also got started on the gearbox re-assembly but ran into a small issue on the shifter - I hope I don't have to remove the entire main shaft again to fix it!
     
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  19. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Tonight's video.....the gearbox is done, so I've started working on the block. Just got the call today that the head is done too so progress should speed up on this project.
    [​IMG]
     
  20. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    I found that I forgot to order thrust washers, so I cleaned up the originals and stuck them in to see how badly they might be worn (it was pretty clear from looking at them that they were worn - I didn't know how badly) I set up the dial indicator - normal clearance is about 3 thou, but as the picture shows - these are way too far gone. Just to be on the safe side I also ordered a set of 3 thou oversize too.

    IMG_20211013_144557R.jpg

    Today I'm mostly just cleaning and painting bits, so when the rest of my small parts get in I'll (hopefully) have everything I need to put it together.

    The cylinder head came back yesterday so I can clean it up and get it assembled in the meantime. I'm using a set of forged 1.13 rockers and a new shaft.