I really want a Saclam, but the availability makes it a pain in the ass. I'd also like an Akrapovic, but I really don't feel like working around or relocating the battery. I'm sort of stuck and could use some suggestions. Megan makes a cat back with a removable cat and that seems great because I plan on running without a cat until inspection/emissions testing comes up then changing back. Obviously I don't want it to sound like a ricer, but given that it's a 4cyl, I'm probably gonna have to deal with the sound regardless. Ironically, the Saclam doesn't sound like rice and it's from Japan. I've listened to nearly evey exhaust on YouTube to get an idea of the sound, but it's not the greatest way of choosing an exhaust. IMO, the Akrapovic & Saclam sound the best on the MCS, so anything close would be awesome. Thanks, John
I believe that other than the JCW exhaust with the resonator removed, the Miltek sounds the best. It gives a throaty sound that doesn't sound like a ricer fart can.
I agree with the above advice from CHKMINI. I've done the JCW w/o resonator an am very satisfied. It's also an exhaust I will never have to worry about each time I go to the smog station.
The JCW exhaust sounds nice and would probably sound great with a high flow cat or catless. A cat back JCW exhaust would cost around $850. Is it stainless? The site I looked at didn't specify. The tips are chrome plated, so they're not stainless. The Milltek is stainless and runs around the same price.
Even stainless rusts and corrodes on an exhaust, it doesn't happen near as fast or bad, but it does happen. Yes the JCW is all stainless, plus its all factory so the quality is better than most aftermarket options. If you are going to be running catless, you know that you will pop codes left and right... Even occasionally go into limp.
I bought the Invidia N1 a few months ago and would suggest you take a look & listen. It's louder than stock without shouting "LOOK AT ME", and it has a deep tone that really accentuates the pop & burble. No cabin drone at all. The Invidia is also significantly less expensive than Miltek or Stratmosphere.
It's so easy to spend other peoples cash... :LOL: I would love a header back exhaust, unfortunately it's not in my budget at the moment. I do suppose I should have added that I do plan on changing the header at some point. More power, more grip... the never ending quest/addiction. As for a "race cat", I always thought race cars ran open headers? A race cat sounds like someone trying to market and sell a high flow cat for more than it is. Back to the JCW tips... Why would they chrome plate stainless rather than polish it? Good to know that the JCW exhaust is SS. I'm aware that stainless can and does rust, I made stainless tubing and pipe from 1/2" to 4" and seen plenty of rusted steel--mainly Chinese and Italian steels. And yes, I made numerous exhausts from *ahem* scrap. 316L sure is pretty. I wish the plant wouldn't have moved. I had a very nice 3" exhaust on my old VW Corrado VR6. Thanks for the suggestions, I do appreciate the feedback. The Milltek looks like what I'll end up with. Now I'm off to look into an air intake. :LOL:
Race Cat, High Flow Cat, same thing... I was trying to be sorta funny with my post. What I wrote is what I have and it can be LOUD. Most race cars now have cats on them.I know that WRC are required to have them. The FIA requires them ion many series too.
Cat shmat.... The world was screwed long before I came into it... Why should I be the one to try and clean it up?
I'm sure it's loud, cats restrict so much flow, top that off with a header and you're pissing off the neighborhood. Like I said, what you suggest is my plan and I could give a rats ass about any of my neighbors. LOL I had no clue that they were running cats on the WRC cars. I imagine they blow them out after a few stages. I was talking with my brother about cats the other night and he remarked how ridiculous the emissions laws were. NASCAR, NASCAR Trucks, Busch series, etc... Imagine the emissions from 43 cars running 500 miles with a mile radius 30 times a year. Good point. Screw a cat. :lol:
My mini failed emissions testing. Now I have to fix it even though I could have just registered it in another county before getting it tested. Oh well. Need advice. I replaced the O2 sensor in case that was the problem. No dice. Light for service is back within 30 miles. The installed cat has a bolt in cat attached to the manifold. All I can find with parts is the whole assembly. I don't think it's a stock cat assembly but don't know. (1) Where can I get just the cat? Should I also change the PCV Valve at the same time? It's code P0142, I believe. Advice appreciated.
My mini failed emissions testing. Now I have to fix it even though I could have just registered it in another county before getting it tested. Oh well. Need advice. I replaced the O2 sensor in case that was the problem. No dice. Light for service is back within 30 miles. The installed cat has a bolt in cat attached to the manifold. All I can find with parts is the whole assembly. I don't think it's a stock cat assembly but don't know. (1) Where can I get just the cat? Should I also change the PCV Valve at the same time? It's code P0420, I believe. Advice appreciated. Sorry for the dup. I realized I mixed the code and should have just edited the first post.
Check for exhaust leaks first. Next find someone like Helix that can clear the adaptive's with the Bav tech scan tool they have. I think, but am not 100% sure that code may be a hard code and must be cleared with a BMW tool like the Bav-Tech tool. A Pep-Boys scanner will not work and I know this for a fact. To get rid of it you have to clear the adaptive's and the take the car out for run at speed (45-50 Mph) for like 20 or 30 min on the road. The PA Turnpike is great for this. Then take it back and have it tested again while the CAT is warmed up and you should pass PA emissions.